hypergear

I recommend HKS silent power. I've made 316rwkws with it, and its quite enough to not get picked on road.

Well, at moment no one else has steel BB or the rights to make steel bearing BB turbos apart from Garrett them selves. So there is nothing to really compare to. In sleeve bearings turbos, Materials in Garrett Bearings and seals are lot harder (which we use). for the rest bits Depends on who you compare it with. If its compare against Mallet or Turbo International (we also use) there isn't much of difference. If Compare to some cheap ChinaChargers you will notice lot of difference in shaft tolerance, Bearing tolerance, weight tolerance and Material components.

If you can post up a photo of its comp and turbine wheel then we should know if its been high flowed or not. But if you compare it to you stock turbo you would definitly notice the difference in wheels sizes.

Scandyflick Some photos of your hiflowed turbo CHRA (GT2860RS Sleeve bearing spec). Should have housings finished tomorrow.

There there's oil feeding pin under the oil feeding port. The end pin size on it is 20 thou which delivers oil to your bearings. Normally that gets blocked with all sort of dirt. Your turbo starvs from oil and cook the bearings.

Normally the grinding noise came from the bearing cartridge, Its a common issue with BB turbo caused from engine oil contaminations. If your wheels and shaft are in good condition its just matter of replacing the bearing cartridge and seals. The small chips on the comp wheel can be machined off. cost wise is about $800AUD for every thing. You are likely needing a inline oil filter before fitting the turbo back on.

It looks like failed bearings, specially if you have get a lot of left to right play. For a foreign object damage you are more then likely to have chips on the upper fin rather then the side. If this is a sleeve bearing setup, you might want to check your oil supply.

Well the starter posted a sleeve bearing diagram. I assume he knows what he's on about, I've Seen Garrett GT35 in sleeve bearings, and built few our selves. added: 18/07/09: Ash you tight ass. Just paid subscription again. lol Any way, For a sleeve bearing overhaul with parts listed in diagram is $670 including a Garrett Comp wheel. assume your housings and turbine wheel is ok. The turbine shaft is going to be expansive if its no good. You can send your complete turbo for a amylase report to find out what’s required for overhaul. Might not be as bad as you thought.

Oopps Didn't notice its a GTR 34. if your stock Gauge displaying 98 degrees and on a slow rising mode then might want to check for water leaks or thermo related bits

depends on where you fit the water temp sensor and atmosphere temperature But seems pretty normal to me.

Assume your turbo is in sleeve bearing with turbine shaft and bearing housing in good condition.

Normally using a OP6 rear end with a stock R33 front housing with a GT2871R or similar spec CHRA would be good enough to get up to 260rwkws. Also you need to increase the factory air gap inside the comp cover. There are also other options using .71 A/R AVO housings and GT3076CHRA (the 7pair fin comp wheeled CHRA you saw). which technically should make over 300rwkws on a RB25det. As the 7 pair fin is made to throw more air but the additional fin also increase weight and becomes a slight flow restriction up top. wither its 6 or 7 pair you are unlikely to notice much difference.

Happened to a R32 I imported years back. Its mainly due to your fuel pump filter blocked. You probably also heard a loud buzzing noise from the pump too. Had to professionally clean the whole fuel system and the problem went away. Or unless you are running too much boost.

Hoo.. no in this case it wont work. Turbo works on a gravity drain system so the drain port must be lower then the turbos and above above oil level means you can't go too low into the sump too.

Well when you are accelerating the manifold pressure forces the shaft to sit against its seals to prevent any leaks plus with great exhaust flow you probably wont notice it. When it slows down the manifold pressure drops, by that point bit of oil slips. So you see smoke. If this only happens to the turbine end then it means turbo need overhaul, or If you have breather or crankcase problems turbo would be leaking though both ends.

You can also try and T piece it together and see how it coops. in theroy it should be ok as your fitting port is only 3mm. If you see a turbo leak oil from both ends then you will need to drill and add additional return port.

You can buy a T Piece and run it into two turbos. Make sure it does not have any flow restrictions on the fittings.

8psi is too much drop. When I was testing mine I only had 2psi drop at 26psi. and its just a cheap China cooler. Might want to check for leaks. Hoo and HKS2530's turbine housing is too small, Its not going to be able to hold high boost. Thats why its only rated at 380HP.

Ash, Compressor map of a turbo would not change in identical housings. You can only pass out of what the compressor can suck in. So you can not have "Greater flow" unless you have a bigger compressor wheel, which does not suit in this case. The current flow limitation is from factory turbine housing. So replace it to increase flow. simple.

Dave The boost dropping is not because of a boost controller issue. You need to understand there are 3x forces controlling actuation. That is inlet manifold pressure, the spring load, and exhaust manifold pressure. Lets discard inlet manifold pressure in this case. The wastegate flap is forced shut by the actuator spring, and once the exhaust manifold pressure exceed the spring load it will force the wastegate flap open. At that point you see a "boost drop". That is not some thing you can control with a boost controller. The only way to solve it is to lower manifold pressure which means a bigger turbine housing. Bigger turbine housing increases exhaust flow, reduce exhaust manifold pressure, temperature and lower compressor speed. Which allow better turbo efficiency and torque. This also explains why a ATR28G2 have made more power and better torque in a smaller engine (ca18det), with a bigger turbine housing (about a .60 T3):

Hi Dave It means the boost curve will be holding straight instead of dropping. and you will also be able to run lot higher boost. ie:

The ATR28G2 is in similar spec a GT3071 52T It will be making lot more then 20kws with heaps more torque in a .63 rear housing. You will definitely notice once its running. Hoo want me to proof it can make lot more power and hold boost straight in bigger turbine housing?

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That looks good. OP6 is still small. You need .63 rear. I can get one machined for for $250. But you need to make a new front pipe. Check That exahust place next to Trents.

200 cell metal cat.