hypergear

Not with broken fins any more. I took some photos before I sent it back. and some information of what we did for you turbocharger repairs. This is repairing a HKS2530 Turbocharger with broken Comp wheel. This is a 60mm 63 trimmed comp wheel. It has been replaced with a new 60mm 64 Trim comp wheel. We had the CHRA and housings cleaned with all internals assessed. Luckily this turbo only require a new comp wheel. So looks like this once all put together: The comp housing had lots of chips on inner frame, This has all been re-profiled out. Finished product:

I thought I should post up some information on our work on turbocharger repairs. This is repairing a HKS2530 Turbocharger with broken Comp wheel. This is a 60mm 63 trimmed comp wheel. It has been replaced with a new 60mm 64 Trim comp wheel. We had the CHRA and housings cleaned with all internals assessed. Luckily this turbo only require a new comp wheel. So looks like this once all put together: The comp housing had lots of chips on inner frame, This has all been re-profiled out. Finished product: For further information this job costed $375 to carry out.

We can machine your R33 turbine housing to suit your GT2876RS. So you have a GT2876R that boltons on to your R32. Due to the small size of its rear turbine housing this turbo would be super responsive working with your engine.

The cheap ebay extractors works fine. Before putting installation make sure you machine both flanges flat, and in most of the cases you also have to slot 2x screw wholes on the bottom (about 2mms each).

The .63 rear ended VG30's turbo can be high flowed to produce upto 300rwkws with supporting mods. RB25 R33 turbo's only capable of 230rwkws.

This won't fit. Totally different bolt pattern on both comp and turbine. How ever we can high flow your stock GTR turbos to about 300HP each. which is similar to a S15 T28.

For a RB30 Twin cam its recommend that you go for a .84 reared turbo. We can make you one that is capable of 320rwkws that doesn't blow your budget. Drop us a PM if interested.

If you are serious of getting 250rwkws We can build you a ATR28G2 in .58 Rear housing in sleeve or Ball bearing depends on what you want to spend. That can produce upto 270rwkws with very driftable response. The max you can get out of a RB20det Turbo high flow is about 230rwkws with stockish response.

This is defiantly compressor side surge. Turbo's sucking air in and splitting air out on the same time. This is some thing I've never seen before. Its not doing it because its spinning too quick. Its doing it because air goes to a dead end and bounce back. If your stock turbo was doing the similar sort of thing probably need to check blockage or inlet cam angle as in timing belt skipped a tooth or incorrectly installed.

How much power are you chasing for Karl? We can build you some thing or high flow your stock turbo that doesn't blow your bugget and actually works.

Look at this power curve. Even with the smallest prototype that we built for SS_Gohan (Its not a G2, Its a one off custom turbo): Compare both stock power run and "one off" curve to dyno sheet on the topic. What are all this "lumps" in Sammy's power curve. and power just dies off to before the car started to run in a sudden. It looked like the car turned off. Also to actual compressor surge on a 71mm Comp wheel, Thats not possible using a 65mm turbine.

I really can't work out what is wrong with it. I really don't believe this is the turbo causing that issue. Every one's getting around 230rwkws in that profile with it with a totally different looking power curve. Maybe your Auto Trans slipped or stuck in gear? Compare with a normal RB25det manual result: We only made the turbo, and like I said I'm happy to check it for you. But we won't be able to do much else. PM Status Tunning, show him your result and see what he think

Had same problem. Mine was timing belt.

For R33 Turbos I actual recommend use our TR43G2 or TR43i for just $200 extra. your stock R33 worth about $300 once its sold. So you only end up paying about $150 more on a custom dump pipe.

You can't high mount turbo. You need to get Stock manifold, Stock turbo, Stock exhaust, Stock Air box with intake pipe and run breather into it. With the ECU system you might be able to get away by tunning to close to stock emission level. Its going to need lot of work to pass EPA. Goto www.epa.vic.gov.au and read through their modification guids.

I had similar issues with a R33 I imported few years back. It turned to be the timing belt.

Well if you had to rotate the comp and turbine housing then you must ensure the position of both housings are alight at the spot of the waste gate flap is shut. The factory actuator Rod does not adjust. Other option is to force shut the wastegate through its arm. If still see no boost means you might be missing a turbine wheel.

If you are missing weight on a specific point then it obviously cause vibration at high RPMs depends on how much weight is missing and what RPM your turbo goes up to. If you like PM us with the comp wheel size we might be able to help you out, Re-balance the rotation assembly once assembled. And it should be good as new.

Remove the pipe from the solenoid and plug it straight into the actuator. Ie. 1x pressure source from inlet manifold straight to actuator. Do not plug into factory solenoid.

If bleed valve is set to run 12psi on a 7psi actuator then on a 14psi actuator it will be getting 24psi. Remove the bleed valve and try again. If there is still a issue give us a call.

errrrr its not 100% on the clamp. You can get stronger clamps but Its just made to hold, It can't seal up gaps. Its when you weld the dump pipe into the O ring. They don't expand in the same sort of rate. So on the end the flat surface of the O ring becomes buckled under pressure as it cools down. Normally to weld the O ring you need to divide it into small sections wait it cools down before moving on to next, Or machine the O ring flange flat before fitting it in the car.

It should work.

If its made to suit a T3 turbo It should. It depends on how long your actuator's extender is.

The price is $1060 including 14psi internal wastegate and Braided oil feeding line. Your Stock water lines fits. The rear end of the turbo is a 2.75 inch Vband, We supply the O ring for dump pipe making, and most of your local exhaust shops can make the dump made for roughly $200.

Assume you have a strong enough Auto box, you need some thing at least in .63 rear housing to do that. We can make a .63 Vband reared ATR28G4 which will get you about 300rwkws at 20~24PSI depends on mods. The OP6 Rears won't do it. But the VL's RB30 .63 rear housing can do it.