hypergear

Rowan unless this turbo was made back in 2006 or a similar looks alike this sort of thing do not happen to our TR43s. Our internal gates in them has been specifically designed and tested on RB25s they do not spike, also Our rear housing never hit, They are running the same diameter as a .58 R34 rear housing. and using the exact same diameter comp housing as a S14. There is no chance it will hit.

Fit the bracket first. if the rod is too long then just cut it short, with those adjustable actuators remember to pre-load about 3mms above the wastegate arm, pull and force in. Also mark the factory wastegate bracket possition on the housing before you remove it. In case you have to put it back on, you need to put it back on where it was.

Please check PMs. Also some bad news on the Garrett BB CHRAs. Garrett fliped their whole sale price up by 33% over night on popular CHRA models. lol. So now its going to cost 33% using Garrett GT CHRAs.

I guess it depends on the sort of rear housing that you do have. Some of RB25det Neos was released with .63 rear. The high flow can get even more power if that is the case. If not then better off getting a GT2835Pro S.

Yea~~ All sleeve bearing turbos will need a run in period. BB turbos do not require run in. We can build them in BB for $400 extra.

All products are going though in different stages of R&R and development to get close the point of perfection. We've paid you to advertise our products not publically bagging and damage our business image. Regardless if this website is your going business or not, We've paid you in full for your service and you've delivered it horribly. I sincerely hope this does not happen again to any other trade members in this community. As for advertising, this is your website, so you decide how to run it. since you are a none-profit organization I'm just giving you some advise, and with additional income you can make this site even better and bigger.

Well I don’t see how you tried to protect us when we first started on this forum as a sponsor 3 years ago, you gave quite few awful comments just like some others did. As a web master you’ve should’ve never disencourage or negatively comment on a specific Sponsor. You took our money to advertise our stock and encourage with our sales correct? I fully understand where you stand and how you prefer to manage your site. As a business trader we want the max exposure of our goods to the public. for example compare at the No. of Clicks on an average traders ad on NS forums vs publishing date vs No. of replies to this forum. You will notice there is a quite abit of difference. and that made us happily sponsoring them for the past 3 years at $190 per month. Look I'm not a website manager, I'm just giving some advises on a trader’s prospective. by changing the layout, increase business exposure and give the right support will attract more advertisers and maximize your profit as a advertising agent. any way. I'm replying to those threads giving correct assistance and information. Not advertising our goods.

Sorry just have to say some thing. So business who pays your fees makes them a better business and for business who's not a sponsor gets plugged by you? We were a sponsor for your site for more then 10 month so yes you did take my money. For us to continue our sponsorship You need to change the way of how you setup this site. Just like how NS and Boost cursing has done. So goods from traders do gets exposed to the public on the main page and we did got heaps more clicks on our ads there. I'm very certain lot of other traders do feel the same way.

R31Nismoid I guess you are half right, Sleeve bearings turbos are cheaper to make. If you are in Melbourne come pass I'm happy to meet you in person and go for a quick visit to our cooperating workshops to witness some manufacturing process. We’ve been doing that since April 07. As for Bush bearings we are using original Garrett Bearing kits, You can't get better bearings then those. Ball bearing is optional. It will cost $350 more if you do what to use a Garrett GT2871R ball bearig CHRA. As for bearing wise BB is using a roller catriges, and bush bearing is using 2x Alloy bearings. Ball bearing turbos do pickup slight better response. Below is a boost and curve of our ATR28SS Bush bearing high flow against factory Ball bearing turbo running on stock RB25 with factory ECU managment.

250rwkws can be archived with a 71mm high flow using standard R34 rear turbine and comp housing. as far as stock AFM and injector they gets maxed at 230rwkws. With stock ECU you can get 215rwkws using 98 fuel and slight timing advancing. The $800 is not for a brand new complete turbo. Its for a brand new CHRA and labor to re-profile your stock housings to suit. it looks like this after high flow: Our turbos are cheaper because they are made locally, we do use quality Garrett components in our turbo building. So you do get a quality product saving from exchange rate, shipping, duty, and tax. plus the money you spend goes to hard working Australians who’s been building turbos for the past 25 years.

In some earlier high flows people were using T04E 71mm 16 fins 59 trim wheel with a To4E 74 Trim turbine wheel. That creates very high manifold pressure on the turbine side which forces the shaft towards the comp housing. Doesn’t take long to wear out the thrust washer so the comp wheels hit its housing then twist the shaft looks like some thing fail into the turbo.

R33's rear is more like a .48, R34's is in .56, and VG30's in .63 which is the biggest one. There will be power gain with bigger turbine housings. specially with .63 rear we can high flow it to 500HP. with .48 and .56 the main issues is back pressure. There are few ways to minimize it trade of with response. 250rwkws is about the max they can do.

Ok here's a initial running in result from a high flow using a ATR28SS. car had boost controller issues so peek boost of 12psi and dropped to 9psi. made 201rwkws with almost identical response to stock Ceramic BB turbo. Car will come back to do a run power tune once done 1000KMs, expecting even better response with about 250rwkws.. RB25Neo, Stock ceramic BB turbo vs ATR28SS. The car was dynoed before turbo upgrade.

Next door boys has been there for the past 20 years. Work quality is not bad. Shit happened that day.

^^^ Well, Turbo do needs an aftermarket oil feed line Or you can modify the oil feed screws on the stock oil line. thats all it needed. Some custom made models do require water lines to be blocked, It is not in this case. Our job is to high flow your turbo, We did that, Its working fine as it should, We did not carry out installation. We are not affiliated with next door mechanics. I recommended them to you as they've done few good jobs, and easier for me to get access to as your old turbo which needs to be removed, high-flowed and refitted. It was a leaking cooper washer on the oil bolt, unfortunately it happened at the time when you pickup and there was no where to get a new cooper washers. So they had to make a washer that fixed the leak at the time. you've been told about this and asked to come back for assessment if it does leak or any thing goes wrong. Any way after finding out about the oil feed restriction valve I've given you a braided oil to get installed at pertek as you got a service booked in. and that was BEFORE Protek worked on your car. Any way be interested to see results after final tune. You need to work on your AUTO box first.

on this car I used ATR28G2 profile with 71mm compressor. its more responsive then originally expected. Its good for about 230~250rwkws with excellent driving ability. G3 should get you max 270rwkws. Its pretty simple, just bolt directly back on with new oil line.

All you need is the oil feed line. Stock oil returne and water lines are fine. The feed line we can supply for $80 with the turbo including speed flow fitting. about the actuator, What we did was filed the fitting whole 5mm below what it was and moved the actuator with rod 5mms up so it shut tight, better response, won't open too early and be able to hold boost in with controller.

This is basically what that was: The high flowed turbo was fitted with stock oil line and bolted up with a stock oil feed screw. (on right) We did not carry out this installation. Problem was on the standard oil restriction valve. The Turbo siezed up, without blowing smoke. It needs to have as much oil as possible to flow. Braided oil feed line is required to make this work. All internal bearing components used in this high flow are original Garrett

I've never seen GT2871R making 280rwkws before. ATR28G3 on the same car same dyno should make around 320rwkws.

With BB CHRA it will be a Garrett GT2871R or a GT3071/6R CHRA. To do that it will cost $1200AUD+ depends on the CHRA you want to put in it.

If the car's going to be tunned for power I recommend to use 14psi actuator so you can alter boost to 24psi. the 7psi actuator can hold a max of 10psi. So depends on further plans to the car.

^^^^ why not. You can pick them up for around $600. I've made 252rwkws out of a stock one with cams years back, But it did pop at 272rwkws.

It must have 'run in'? Doesn't quite work like that. Surprised a turbo 'manufacturer' would be under the impression that plain bearing turbos take a few thousand kilometers to 'run in.' LoL never you heard turbo run in? all brand new bush bearing turbos will need a run in time of 1000KMs. Boost curve will change once its run in. eg: before run in: After run in:

yea, the turbo got more responsive, It must've run in, It had 300kms before the tune. Also I found and fixed that electrical issue, it was in the bit of loom our friend made, Its running beautifully now. I’ll see you next week to dyno the new KAI turbo.

Yea the CA's gear ratio is different from the SR. If you’ve driven one you know, It needs 3000rpm just to keep the car moving but revs out very quickly. From daily driving the car operates from 3000 to 5000RPM, even compare to stock T25 turbo there isn't really any thing till after 3500rpm. From actually driving it, it doesn’t feel any lag at all, pretty much just like factory turbo. But when you step it in. ha ha ha ha fun begins, wheel spin on 1st, 2nd and 3rd at 100KM/H jumping from 80km/H to 130KM/H in 2 secs grab on to your steering wheel , hear the loud whisper from the turbo and let your body sank into the seat On SR probably get abit more power but should see heaps better turbo response and more torque.