hypergear

Well if the turbocharger compartment isn't touched then power lose must be from other causes. I'm suspecting the tune. I can replace the G3 with a billet T67 free if you prefer to try.

Both billet SS2 and SLSS2 are more responsive with higher output then a normal T67. Check page 388. The VNT model is targeting towards SS1 .64's response while making SS2's power. I will post further details as it gets installed and tuned.

At moment its seems to be just a 2 step rev limiter that sits on 6000RPMs when clutch is in. He's going to hook up the launch control with ign retard possibly Thursday and trying to launch at 10psi.

Like do you actually step it onto preset rev limiter by launch control and give full throttle on launch? Or give gradual throttle to allow torque building up gradually before step in full throttle. its not moving very far on first gear at moment.

Its going to be laggy as on my Rb25det. I guess it doesn't really matter used with launch control. Not sure if my fuel system is good enough for the maximum capability of that turbo, but will post result after I get it build and trailed. Also was that VL on stock drive shaft? I abit concert it might bent or snap at that sort of power level.

4 wheel drive would be a huge advantage. Mine isn't griping in 1st gear even with M/T, and after few tries it starts to launch on a single wheel. how ever once goes into 2nd it grips fine. I'm trailing the VNT SS2 now so that billet T67 is just collecting dust, it should drop straight into your turbine housing try it and see what happens. Trent is organising a private drag day at Heathcote when they come back from Chile so we can go there for unlimited runs through the day.

I don't really think there should be much issues on the design of the turbocharger since every one's made 320hp+ on fair basic mods on stock cams. I'll be happy to check and update it to the most recent profile if Halando is happy to send it. T04Z I've engineered the comp wheels in couple of different sizes and blade shaps. I like to see what they can do on the GT35 based turbine wheel first. The T04Z turbine might be too laggy.

Well having 350, 400rwkws on a dyno machine is very different to actually been able to use them effectively for better speed and time. A power plant is only a thrid of all the necessary work required. Chatting with people whom actually run 10s in drag days, there is no fluke in it, every thing from engine to drive tran to wheels, and weight has been worked on for the best possibly time. That Yellow supra in my footage has 1000HP and he run 10.3s with huge cross ply tires. That car has been stripped with only whats required, work done from engine to wheel, it has taken the guy over 3 years to build and with minor configurations done for better results every time it goes to drags. Its easy enough to say whom ever have done 10s and its easy and every one should be able to do it by bolting on what ever turbo to it. When comes to the drags with 350~400rwkws car, it is only a tinny step towards 10sec. Artz take my billet T67 that actually made 400rwkws install it and drag it. See for your self what time you can get out of it.

At 431rwkws on stock inlet manifold held it fine, I don't think it has issues crunch 460rwkws either, not sure at exactly what power level larger inlet manifold and throttle body starts to take effects. The positive side of those forward facing plenums would be the ability to adapt on shorter cooler pippings instead of having them looping around the rocker cover. The boost behavior seems to be common to the x28x type of turbine wheels even with customized larger turbine exducer trim. it really needs to have taller inducers and larger dia to be efficient enough for the RB25det motor.

Well might be worth while taking it back to Garage 101 and drop stock cams back on.

Difference between Trent's dyno and a roller dyno is 4kws at 280rwkws. Well you can calculate the car weight vs the M/H to approximate the power level. Mine is ET street not ET drags. I'm originally wanted ET Drags but there are nothing fit.

Well your best on street tyres was 13.2 at 112m/H on 280rwkws, and 12.6 on same mileage with slick tries. I run 13.0 "125m/H" at 360rwkws on street tires and 12.2 with semi slicks (M/T street are semi slicks) with single wheel launch due to slipping diff. From there you can work out how much power is required getting into flat 11/10secs based on a stock weighted R33

Once again its a stripped R32 chassis with a Rb25 motor. They are totally irrelevant. More power without been able to put it on ground only makes the car run slower with high mileage. Which my mileage do match HP ranking it comes down to launch. Well you got a TD06 making 300rwkws on your R33, Take it to heathcote without stripping it on street tires, I think you will be sitting around 13sec with probably 110 miles after many practices.

Strip as much weight as possible. and loss 20kgs. Do all the necesensary engine mods Run our Billet T04Z with proper manifold and 60mm gate to about 500rwkws Cutch re-enforce drift shaft and stronger diff With bit of luck that the stock gear box won't blow to piece Or put a dog box auto in there. get adaptronic or some thing similar to setup launch control. Cross ply M/T wheels and rims Learn how to drive By Then you can probably on a flat 10s

In a stock weighted GTST R33/4 I don't really believe you can actually do 10s or low 11s with a 3076's, T67 or SLSS2 or what ever in that power range. ARTz try take your car without stripping it to heathcote and you will be surprised how slow the time would be. Have a read in my thread, my setup is fairly moderated, I had a better turbo with faster response and more power. and I can probably get a flat 12 / high 11s after many practices. Having the power in a lighter weighted chassis and 4 wheel drive is an advantage. For a factory weighted R33/34 to run into 10s i believe it needs at least 450rwkws with better diff and possibly re-enforced drift shaft. Response doesn't help, the car's be on launch control sitting at 6500RPMs when taking off and peddle to metal every gear after. All this things that people do for better road driving ability that no affect in quarter times.

Been working into split plus and VNT turbine housings, split pulse housing if engineered correctly working with the right turbine wheel it can have a significant affect in the turbocharger's response regardless wither a split pulse manifold or gate is used. It comes to how far and how thick the pulse is as well as the height of the inducer of the turbine wheel. If the divider has been machined matching same profile as the turbine wheel, then obviously it will create the fastest discharging velocity to the wheel. However in upper revs it might not be efficient enough to discharge all the exhaust gases coming from the engine quick enough creating a restriction. Which appears to be the reason that most of the divider has been shifted back couple of mms to compensate. Once again it comes back to power response trading. The only none power response trading option for very effective out comes would be some thing that can alter its A/R size referring to boost and rpm level. That is the VNT setups.

Your current turbo is internally gated. means all the gas go through the mufflers and cat. While externally gated turbos has a large gate welded onto either the exhaust manifold or the turbine housing. They are not legal for street use and heavy fin apply. There are cheap ways to make your current turbocharger more responsive by going down to a .64 rear and replace the current compressor wheel to some thing like a 71mms 52T.

The GTX2863 is a tinny turbo. I don't believe they can pump 315rwkws. I made a billet 64mm and 68mm comp wheel and used them in a customized one trim larger +2mm exd turbine based on the GT28 in a .86 rear and only managed to squeeze 276rwkws out of the 64mm and 298rwkws out of the 68mm. Those are E85 results on high mount externally gated setup. My prediction on the GTX2863 is probably 230rwkws on pump 98 if used on stock manifold internally gated only if you run it on .86 rear. They will be red hot on .64.

OP6 been a larger turbine housing has advantage of making more power over standard R33 housing, usually pump around the 260rwkws mark after high flow with very good response. How ever if you don't mind lag and has plans to high mount it we can high flow it to produce towards 400rwkws. Alternatively our latest G3 or a SS2 in a customised .82 turbine are direct bolton turbos and generally makes around the 280rwkws mark on stock manifold internally gated. Those are multi-adapt turbochargers that can be easily high mounted, and making towards 375rwkws mark on E85 with very good response. To fit a L2 based turbo in 10cm you will need a proper high mount manifold with a large external gate. Have a look at our latest SLSS2 billet L2 10cm turbo, they max 385rwkws with 20psi by 3800rpms. Run a high flowed or SS/G3 turbos on 10psi with your current tune it should work fine, stock injectors will limit peek power to the 220rwkws mark unless get Toshi (check sponsor) to have a play at it, he did manage 260rwkws on stock injectors with two of our customer's cars based on our standard R33 high flowed turbocharger.

have a look at our SS2 and SLSS2 billet turbos in both 10cm and .82 rear in the dynosheet section. hey makes around 375rwkws on stock cams and should be over 400rwkws with pon cams, they make 20psi around 3750rpms which is pretty good for a daily or drift. You might need a 50mm gate for them to perform at their peek.

I've uploaded footages for all good runs out of the day. There are number of interesting cars there yesterday, I will publish the video after further uploading completes.

Footage of the best run today. I've also taken footages of few other interesting cars. Will publish once they are uploaded.

I don't drift this car. its mainly for street, and will be on quarters often now. I'm planing to drop in a set of pon cames and pumping it to about 450rwkws mark. Sorry I'm really a noob when comes on the diff. I will likely be buying a kaaz diff, So which one better for my application? the 1 way, 1.5 or 2 way.

Thanks for the info any instructions on how to do this?

Felt that on the way back. the car skits heavily to one side. He did mention about welding them together. or not sure if there is any one whom can modify stock diff to make them stronger. Alternatively I was thinking buying a kaaz diff. not sure which one is better to get 1.5 or 2 way? It is a road car and I do drive a fare distance testing new turbos, I still want it to handle smoothly on road.