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Everything posted by hypergear
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Nope, bigger engines actually result in much high back pressure and lot more heat when constrained by a small turbine, its different when fitted on to a smaller engine. So this turbo might reach 250rwkws on a worked SR20det, but won't be able to reach that on a RB25det, probably going to pin its head off on boost. This is the new 3inch Vband dump adaptor with a large 38mm internal gate that I've been working on earlier and it is now complete.
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Best Turbo Upgrade. Experiences. Results. S1 Stagea
hypergear replied to juzzy.melb's topic in Four Door Family & Wagoneers
It was a small SS1 and was aiming for super responsive 250rwkws. This turbo has made around 250rwkws on three different skylines including R34 with 20psi of boost by 3200rpms before it was built for particular customer. I've been told it doesn't hit boost on his car till about 5000RPMs on the same time it had a engine and other things wrong before it was sold not long after. In this particular case, it is a very tempered package with many different parts working together, I don't believe the finger should be pointed to the turbocharger without looking into the rest, and I some how wished I could have the car for few weeks going through with to spot any problem there might be. The OP6 high flow would be a bigger size turbo then the SS1 for the Rb25det Neo motor. Most people are doing the easy 250rwkws mark with it with very good drivability, there are couple of dyno readings of it in our high flow thread worth looking at, overall It's a good and inexpensive option for a street level performance upgrade. -
The curvature of the blade is too far curved, specially in a 8cm its going to chock the engine badly, and putting on heaps of load onto the thrust collar. Its good for small engines. Under comparison, the SL2 turbine appears much better for a Rb20/25 motor.
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Did some jigging today. I can make TD06SL2 20G / 18G or TD05H 18G into a bolton turbocharger for Nissan Rb engines, how ever only in a 8cm housing at current stage. It will cost $300 additional. Since most internally gated TDxx results are rather disappointing, the ATR series are still better choices of a bolton turbocharger, how ever send in PM if any one wish to get one made and have a go at.
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They looks good from top. Performance wise I've had few customer installing aftermarket inlet manifolds. 2x made no difference in power but gained lag, 1x made tinny bit of more power with better response, 1x made less power with more lag. The majority of people I deals with are within 250~350rwkws margin. I'm not sure at what HP range they start to take effects, but Personally I don't think they are worth getting.
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He would normally adjust it through the boost controller, it gains better response that way. the actuator has to be pulled up tight.
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Well I believe the current ATR28 turbine wheels are much better turbine wheel to the TD05H, if it doesn't perform as planed then I will change it. Regarding to the wastegate flapper, I will fit a large 38mm gate to this housing. That manifold sticks out about 20mms compare to stock, plus I think the JJR dumps do have the issue touching drain pipe. The pipe needs to be zip tied backwards or wrapped with heat wraps.
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It was a 38mm gate in a small .64 rear housing. that gate comes standard in all SS2, G3 and G2.5. Turbo made 227rwkws on 17.5psi from a Rb20det.
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The .82 type A/B turbine housings don't usually creep boost, How ever there has been a person reporting this issue, luckily he was local. What I've found is there is one stud hole that sits behind the wastegate flapper, the thickness of the material there is 10mm for oem stud, while 25mm bolt was used instead, So the extra length of the bolt pressed against the gate making it unable to move. That bolt is the one on top right corner if you are looking at it from behind. our 14psi actuators holds 15psi on a free flow setup, and 17.5 with extended wastegate lever. The high pressure actuator holds 18psi and 21psi with extended lever. Most of our brand new turbochargers has extended levers, are fitted with a 14psi actuator. With your 3076, I did not looking into your dump pipe, this is certainly a split dump pipe, as your turbine housing already had the wastegate divider built in, making it sealed in a chamber. While most internal gate would open to 45 degrees, the gate acts as a lid, trapping hot air inside the chamber causing boost creep. That also explains why a big 38mm internal gate would still boost spike on your setup. Solution would be getting a bell mouth dump made, or mill out the wastegate divider on the turbine housing.
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This project is mainly for Greddy turbo fans, but I don't like copying them in OEM specifications, so I will mix and match wheels plus some customized profiled billet wheels for them to be different. The goal is for dynamic drivability, Modify housings to fit different types of vehicles, and perhaps adding ceramic roller bearing cartridges. I've had the T518Z billet version finalized today with every thing machined up nicely. It is currently on 18G compressor with a TD05H turbine. I will machine one more housing using SL2 turbine tomorrow
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Also I've re-engineered the sleeve bearings with different oil grove for the ATR43xx turbochargers, tested today, which made them have similar boost building behavior as the ceramic roller bearing CHRAs, will get some dyno readings mid week against my CBB result. Free upgrade to all customers.
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Also our billet 18G compressor is ready, The profile is identical to our SS1PU compressor wheel but smaller in diameter. This wheel is made to flow about 10% higher then original cast wheel, while producing very dynamic on road drivability. Our compressor casting has also arrived. Tomorrow I will machine it up alone with turbine casting to have the turbocharger produced. It is currently available in 8cm rear, with 18G or 20G comp and TD05H and TD06SL2 turbine wheel. Price is still at $800 each. PM if any one's interested.
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Realistically those actuators are just big casings, the actual diaphragm and spring setups are identical to any other actuators. The best part of it is it allows you to change springs easily and preloading the spring by adding washers under the diaphragm of where the two bolts comes out. But apart from that its no differences to metal casing actuators. Its probably good for turbos with small compressor housings, But It does run out of room when I tried to use it with a .70 comp housing.
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Rb25 Turbo Upgrade, All Dyno Results
hypergear replied to Nacho Vidal's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
93 model R33 GTST Forgied CP pistons, valve springs and stock every thing else. 800cc injectors 600x300x75mm Front mounted cooler Xforce 3inch turbo back exhaust Profect B electric boost controller SS Ebay bolt on manifold PU high flowed R33 turbocharger, Ceramic roller bearing, internally gated. 4inch intake pipe Adaptronic Plugin Greedy EBC This is Billet SS2 in .82 Type B Ceramic roller bearing Both runs are based on a ported stock exhaust manifold E85. Blue is with a .63 rear housing. -
Some further evaluation on a ceramic roller bearing PU high flow running stock compressor housing internally gated. The profile of this turbocharger is identical to a G2.5. I've bought some actuators casings from Taiwan (probably same as Kando ones) and used 18psi high pressure actuator springs in it and it worked well. Best part is that I can add few washers under the diaphragm to load the springs to where I want it to be. It made 341rwkws on E85 with the current manifold. It is 10kws short and 100rpms laggier compare to when it was on the Brae manifold even with more boost. How ever pretty good result from a stock looking turbo.
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Well there should be a small shaft play side to side, but close to none up and down. What you've felt shouldn't be a problem as they all very welly beefed up. if its a G2 would be a .63 turbine with a .60 comp made for around 260rwkws.
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Goto www.hypergearturbos.com Under ATR43 and there are dyno readings from both Type A and Type B rear housing from the G3.
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SxxRicho: Interested in trailing Ceramic roller bearing turbo upgrade for your track car? Let me know if so, free exchange.
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You are more likely to see smoke on decel as smoke will be mixed with higher velocity of exhaust gas on acceleration making it harder to read. Also back pressure will act against the turbine shaft to the seal grove making lesser of a leak. All depending on the extend of leakage of course.
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If it started doing it on the setup that you've got it for the past few month (or years) then its highly likely that the turbo has failed. Best have it removed and checked, might be a cheap fix now rather then buying a whole new core later.
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I'm not sure if the stock R34 plenum gasket is rubber or not. you need to get the metal one with rubber O rings in them. I found the rubber ones gets blown out under high boost.
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Please let me know your date, I would like to come and witness your tune and take some video footages. cheers