hypergear
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Everything posted by hypergear
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I've had the 550ccs from them and they worked fine.
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If that turbo was specified for a Rb20det for responsive power then it will be too small for the Rb25det, you will need to reduce timing up top. Or run a larger turbine housing with the existing core.
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Its currently a Optima Yellow top D31A.
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I forgot to mention in the last run before the head gasket cracked. That SS2 has a customized housing, it is slightly more responsive then the one before that model. SCR48 has that housing. Adam come for a test drive in the newer housing have a feel of differences once I get the car back on the road. Latest configuration The one earlier: -
I've Listed the wrong motor. lol. By specification on user manual it is: -Max. Current: 130A -Max. Voltage: 12V -Max. Power: 1700W It has a 12V cooling fan and heat shield attached to it. This electric turbo won't be running at full capacity all times, Its configured to run 100% only when throttle is at 100%, or the compressor starts to surge. In a manual car assume I'm flogging it, the time cycle between each full throttle runs are less then 10 secs before I have to release throttle and change gears. The motor is powered down when throttle is released. Do you think a capacitor is suitable for some thing in that setup? Providing sudden discharge of 10 secs and revive it self when motor stops drawing current. Any diagrams that you post up and show the best setup in your mind? in both bugget and not. Cheers.
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As some of yous already knew that we are developing electric turbochargers. (lol don't laugh) The prototype produces 3.3 psi of boost with 0RPMs of lag on a Rb25det engine with turbocharger disconnected. How ever the motor that I'm using draws a large amount of current. it is hooked to an spare $500 Optima 12V battery that keeps it activated on 100% throttle for 15mints (obviously a normal person would not flog their car on full throttle for 15 mints straight on road). The motor uses 12V DC, 120amps, and up to a maximum of 2400 watts. If I am going to hook it up to the car battery or run the 2nd battery in parallel, is there a way that I can satisfy motor's draw current without affecting car's electrical instruments? Ie. Capacitors or some thing in similar, or couple of capacitors, or more batteries in parallels connections, can the factory alternator charge all batteries in the parallel circuit through normal driving? Please post up your ideas. Thanks.
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What Have You Done To Your Stagea Lately?
hypergear replied to Hanso's topic in Four Door Family & Wagoneers
Same price as the bigger high flow. I can run Billet wheel into those at additional cost. -
What Have You Done To Your Stagea Lately?
hypergear replied to Hanso's topic in Four Door Family & Wagoneers
Couple of members have requested for the smaller high flow profile for the M35 Stagea working with factory ECU and fuel setup. I've taken few photos and posted below. Compare to the larger profile, this chra has smaller turbine and comp wheel, also run fnt turbine setup, it is expected to produce some where around the 230rwkws mark with supporting mods, should have stock alike response with a much strong top end. The whole chra is about 15mm shorter then OEM chra, All lines fits fine (oil line needs little bending), the drain pipe flange needs to be slightly skimmed. -
Update on the M35 VQ25 turbocharger high flow profile. This is the small profile using the SS1 core. Also run FNT turbine setup. should have stock alike response with much stronger punch. Running with after market ecu I would expect it making some where around the 230rwkws mark. The whole chra is about 15mm shorter then OEM chra, All lines fits fine (oil line needs little bending), the drain pipe flange needs to be slightly skimmed.
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Yea, for on my car it was around 3 degrees of timing increase for mid-top range. the power band keeps on rising instead of dropping and the torque curve also becomes lot more spreaded. I will do few runs with the new manifold compare to my current one (expansive one) and see if there are any differences. But either way I'm sure a 50mm gate will make some differences.
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I'm waiting for a cometic multi layer metal gasket from usa. I'm not in a great hurry as Brae needs about one more week to have the new manifold made. I will announce price of them once they are successfully trailed.
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Since my car's off the road, I've managed getting Brae to have my existing manifold modified for an 50mm external wast gate. We are also in the process of making an simpler exhaust manifold that is in factory style with larger inner diameter made to support an 50mm external gate (or can be left internally gated) at a very affordable price. It should be a bolt on item to factory setup, and holding the turbocharger in factory position. It is designed for for the ATR43 bolt on series or any standard bolt on high flows, I will have that trailed when it becomes first available.
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intake pipe makes abit of differences to response. here's one more result from a customer's R34 skyline running SS1PU. made 255rwkws @ 16psi with 2psi creep mid range. This car's also runs a return flow cooler that get abit hot. With a proper cooler at 20psi it should be getting pretty close result as my test car. There has been a recent FNT angle update, might affect tinny bit in response but not power wise.
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Then it should be a.63 rear housing. its fine holding about 18psi in upper rev range, you might need an high pressure actuator as stock might not be able to hold that much of back pressure.
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Bird's result was from an roller dyno and so's Peters. could be the tuner is conservative, different dyno, differences in the exhaust, cooler, or what ever it might be. Since my car's off the road I'll organize photos post up some progresses of the Turbocharged Kia sportage with high roll over risk project that we are half way through for bit of laughter.
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For mid range it can go up to 24psi. Uptop it would be sitting around 18psi depending on the size of the rear housing its been worked on.
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Rb25Det S2 Turbo/engine Problem?
hypergear replied to BRUNSKIGTST's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Assume it is running the oil feeding line that is supplied with the turbo, if not then it would've been oil starved and needs rebuilding. Check turbo shaft play. (usually +/- 1mm side, and +/- 0.3mm in and out). If there are no abnormal shaft play then its likely not been a turbo issue, unless its has been driven for a while like the way it is. Check to make sure there are no kinks or bends in any parts of the oil drain pipe that are capable of storing oil. Check and make sure engine is not over filled with oil. If you have a catch can, disconnect it and plumb breathers back to its usual spot. Check engine timing. At last remove the turbocharger and drop it by for inspection. -
I had 040 in my Sil180, when the metal filter blocks it makes a loud whining noise. I had to pull it out and clean it once every couple of weeks, on the end I teared the mash filter out of the bottom and that worked fine and stopped the whine. lol The walbro more or less bolton to stock bracket, and it had an walbro in there for 4 years without much issues.
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The new pump requires an additional earth. By the way it is a walbro F9000262 400L/Min pump. It works once plugged into the stock loom but doesn't create much pressure. Once additional earth is connected it worked fine. How ever didn't help the head gasket.
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For 250rwkws you can get that by just high flowing your stock turbo on stock manifold internally gated. Or depending on what the high end of the goal is.
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My engine head gasket went last night on the dyno due to a bad wiring in the fuel pump lol. I was about to test it out. So hopefully in about a weekish.
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Just add stock exhaust manifold is not accounted as a proper low mount or low mount at all. Proper low mount means some thing like a HKS or 6 boost or Brea low mount with ext gate setup.
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A proper top mount manifold with a good waste gating system will make a gain in performance. Same can also he archived using proper low mount. Inlet manifold how ever doesn't gain much or I have seen people went backwards. not much of point changing unless maybe hug power or for looks or intercooler popping installation convenience.
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I thought they were compliance requirements. Mine had them drilled through the rear speakers.
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For the best result would be installing a large external gate on the exhaust manifold instead of turbine housing.
