rev210

Sorry your wrong. You'll see gains even if you have a factory turbo on the cast iron manifold. Try another 15-20hp right through the power band on my old gtst with only the exhaust cam, factory intercooler, s-afc.

I agree that the head porting/clean up is a little bit expensive if your not rebuilding the engine. Though if you were to rebuild you'd be silly not to. As for the camshaft upgrade. It's going to cost less than $2k for both camshafts including fitting and a re-tune. Well worth the $$ in terms of its performance returns. I'd do it even on a stock sized turbo. You end up with 15-20hp right through the curve and a peak of almost 30hp extra (thats how it worked on mine with just the exhaust cam changed) Benm, I don't think it should be a choice between a PFC and camshafts. The PFC is nice to have over the S-AFC due to the extra fuel mapping and more improtantly ignition recurve. So do both. The S-afc will cope with the camshaft upgrade till you get the PFC. Having said that I had a S-afc on my old gtst running the HKS 264 /9mm exhaust camshaft and it worked very well. The camshaft was certainly a big improvement over the factory unit even with the lowly S-afc. The draw back with the 'bolt on boy' approach is it often overlooks this critical area of performance.

getting the gearbox off , the clutch and flywheel off and the clutch and flywheel back on is too easy. Getting the gearbox back in the right angle is the killer. I spent 2 days trying to lift the gearbox into position by myself. Now I'm not sure it weighs 150kgs (probably about 50?) but, with only the clearence of axle stands in my shed it feels like 150kgs. I ended up getting my brother around to help with trolly jacks ------ 1 day & no luck Then a mobile mechanic ------- no luck I finally had to do what I should have paid to do in the first place and it cost me more. It can be done of course, and GTRken happened to tell me he had a special peice of wood that gave the gearbox the right angle to go straight in. He did tell me this 'after' I gave up and had the thing back together. It's all about the angle. I use a peice of wood dowl wrapped in electrical tape as a multi fit clutch alignment tool, old backyard trick works mint.

black Aus delivered GTR.

the power figure looks ok to me. The engine is probably not 'new' , I'm guessing the better part of 100,000kms? The standard cat if very old can easily strangle power. Whack some camshafts in, it will do wonders for the power curve even on a factory turbo.

running things a little rich up top is a very smart idea. Sure you can probably nab another 20rwhp but, at the cost of a much finer margin for error outside the tuning environment. The dyno is not the track or road, and as such AFR's can vary enough to screw your engine if it's not tuned with a decent fall back. Also if summoner can make that sort of power at 1 bar thats a great bonus to engine longevity. Shame about not running AFM's on the Wolf tho'. It's not like RB20 AFM's are that expensive as an uprgrade on the RB26.

Got head work and camshafts? If you don't that doesn't help.

you might like to keep the boost down on those turbo's according to the gtr-uk forum guys who have had them aren't the best pick for being reliable over the boost pressure your running.

what was the error in the workmanship steve?

issues with platinum --------- They don't offer anything worthwhile for the price. Buy copper plugs specs as above.

good stuff mate. What was the time / mph and 60ft for the run? I hope you do get the 11.

Can't say I've had much to do with non-factory ecu's getting passed. The volvo is an emissions complient carby (for the 1970's baby yeah!) plus lpg. The engine conversion, custom gas fit and everything else in certified and passed. Had a few late model engine conversions to older cars but, the old pre 80's cars are/were easier. To be a 'true' street car, you must answer 'true' to the question of whether your car is completely legal to drive on the road with the modifications it has because they have been authorised. This definition stops silly arguments, unless its an excuse to drink beer. Whatsisname, If you use the nitrous on the drag strip with the mask it's only cheating when you have cement in the boot, lead doors and a lead bonnet.

Thats alright adrian in the past when I've had a car that couldn't meet those standards I just said to people it wasn't a true street car and whooped their ass anyway. How about----- who cares if your car isn't a 'true' street car. It still goes really fast and if that is the only come back someone has when you beat them try; " yeah it's not a true street car, it's a true fast car unlike your slow peice of crap...." (best use don people who try to bring you down for using NOS --- they love it).

A true 'street car' is one that is fully complianced and pit passed with all the features it has, a certification for each mod from the dept of transport, an engineer and is insured as per the full disclosure of all this info. My Family Volvo wagon is a true street car (not a very fast one though), with all its mods. Each one has been engineered and passed by the pits. And my lovely insurer shanons knows about each one of the mods. There are a few 9 second cars that qualify as per the above statement, sadly none of them are skylines. So lets step up to it boys and girls.

$140 a tyre! Thats luxury. My old gtst tyres were $115 a corner. Anything more expensive than that is a race tyre. Pffft... Federals! Only the rich drag racer can afford those.

Alan, Thanks for showing me the Pulley kit, it looked great but it's for an R33 or R34 GTR not my R32 GTR. For anyone with an R34 or R33 GTR this kit will work great. It reduces water pump cavitation at high speed, improves engine response and decreases spool times for the turbos. Not to mention they look nice too.

meshmesh, the lower tyre pressure means the sidewall can flex more and there is slightly more rubber contact on the road but, also it allows for heat to be put into the tyre without exceeding a good inflation pressure.

What time will you do? Don't worry about it, just have fun! Use strategy and have a laugh, you will be more relaxed and produce a better effort. More importantly you will enjoy it. Some tips. Go to a road somewhere in your area that has a 100 - 110km speed limit (a private road of course). Preferably one with little traffic and probably at a time when there is less traffic around. Practice launches by pulling over waiting for a clear run. Goto the speed limit only, pull over again and repeat. You can try a variety of different launch rpms and more importantly throttle feeds. For example try a 4000rpm launch with 3/4 throttle. With the car in 1st gear , and with the clutch in stab the throttle to 3/4. drop the clutch quickly as the revs hit 4000rpm (you have a fraction of a second to do this). See if the rear wheels break traction. If they do you need to back the throttle off to 1/2 the next time. If the car bogs down tho' try more revs. Once you have the first 5-10m without wheelspin its time to floor the throttle completely. It's hard to resist but, if you do you should get off the line rather well. The alternative is easier - fry your clutch. It just isn't as cheap and when you have more power thanks to a big turbo ,the throttle feed skill will net you good times without you resorting to the winge ' oh but I had no traction....'. You also have a handbrake to use if you would like to absorb the excess power that would otherwise turn into wheelspin, it only helps a little bit but could be just enough. Once at the drags bear in mind that the surface is usually more slippery for your tyres than that private road you tested on. So you might need to change things a little. You can drop the pressure on the tyres to 20psi if you like, however do this after a few runs on the factory inflation if your having no joy. At factory inflation do not do a burnout (the heat increases the pressure in the tyre). After getting little joy on the factory inflation drop the pressure to 20psi and give it a small burnout (need to see some smoke off the tyres tho'. It means they are hot and as your a newbie you will probably take so long to stage they will cool down alot). Try and get to the stage before the other guy if possible when your not doing burnouts at the factory inflation. This will give you more time to concentrate on what you want to do launch wise before the tree lights up. have fun

A stupid thread.

great 60ft time dude.

The nittos are still radials tho', can drive them around corners and things. Otherwise I could hang it on Paul for using tyres wider than 205's and in a brand more expensive than simex to do his 13.0..... wait a minute I usually do It's all relative. If its a street tyre then let it through to the keeper.

No need to show anyone the engine doesn't run out of puff at 6500rpm with standard cams, thats a silly thing to show people. Not like my rubber chicken, now thats worth people seeing. I'll be pleased enough to see you run a 12 Paul I know how long it has eluded you mate. Oh well at least you car has done a time 0.3 seconds quicker than my old stocker, I never thought I'd see the day Wait a minute I'll call the guy who has my car now and get him down the drags for a 12' before the season ends so I have another 6-7 months to hang it on you before you get a chance to go again

sounds like an ecu based ignition/NVCS issue. The 5000rpm point is where the NVCS knocks off for the day. Try backing the base timing off 5-8 degrees and try unplugging the NVCS, see if you get the same issue, takes 5min to do in the driveway.

GTS-t Vspec, You are definately missing out on not having some higher lift/longer duration cams in your engine. You will make more power and the inlet temps will not be as high, it's just physics. There are always two ways to make good power. So far you have chosen the hard way trying to see how much power you can make on standard cams. For the rather small outlay you could pick up so much performance. I'd like to see you crack a 12 second pass, you've been waiting so long for it so I reckon you should treat yourself to some nice camshafts