rev210

It does take two seconds to do. If your car is not running rough then it won't do anything at all. It does nothing to any of the fuel or ignition maps, possibly helps calibrate closed loop operation but, that doen't affect the power of your car at all. After evey mod? I didn't bother to do it when I had a gtst. It's not by definition 'wise' becasue it's ignorant of the fact of how the ecu actually does work. Go pick your nose instead, there are more gains to had there for roughly the same time spent.

hate to say but, platinum plugs are a waste of money. Your a silly sausage for not getting a bigger fuel pump. The factory one struggles even on the factory turbo once things are optimised. Whether or not its the plugs (my guess it isn't)get the fuel pump or there will be a motor rebuild waiting for you shortly. Does the noise sound like a metalic rattle? It's pinging if it is. If so get the fuel issue sorted

did you say detonation? If so it isn't the plugs fault its probably the fact that you are running out of fuel. I noticed you have a high flow turbo and no mention of a bigger fuel pump. Get ready to say hello to a broken ring land or three. you will need a bigger fuel pump and injectors, or at least an adjustable fuel reg and big pump.

croat, 1.1mm should be fine if your boost is the factory 7psi. If you go and up the boost you might find the spark character better at a gap of 0.8mm. Do NGK know if your going to boost your car over the factory level? --- No. Do they care? --- No.

You could get any decent sized high pressure cooler to adapt, in the right line size. Aftermarket power steering coolers would be another cheap source. I'd like to get hold of a 4 pass unit with a higher rating. I think I remember permacool making a few types of power steering coolers that might suit. Still around the $80 range from memory.

Something I'd like to have a go at is installing something like the flexalite fuel cooler, looks a little like an auto trans cooler it is rated at 4,500 GVW I assume once you have air flow happening and the advantage over products like the moroso 'cool can' is that it doesn't weigh very much.The much cooler fuel spray would help drop the intake temps as well. The price is around $80. the dimensions are 12inches by 3 1/2 ,about 3/4 inch thick.

I might start another thread about the fuel cooler as it's a bit 'off topic'.

you measure the supposed 0.8mm gap with a feeler guage.

Alcohol injection is worth a shot (pun) if you'd like to run quite high boost in drag racing applications. The alcohol of choice is isopropyl, the same stuff used as a video head cleaner and general electronics cleaner. The kits are availible if you do a search. Tolunene injection can also be setup, using something like a cold start injector, hooked up to a pressure switch. A small fuel cell 2-4L and appropiate fuel pump located in the boot would do the trick. Something I'd like to have a go at is installing something like the flexalite fuel cooler, looks a little like an auto trans cooler it is rated at 4,500 GVW I assume once you have air flow happening and the advantage over products like the moroso 'cool can' is that it doesn't weigh very much.The much cooler fuel spray would help drop the intake temps as well. The price is around $80. the dimensions are 12inches by 3 1/2 ,about 3/4 inch thick. Sydneykid, ever looked at doing this for your track cars?

I found the BCPR7ES would last 20,000kms or so. Just check the plugs condition every now and then. The HKS plugs won't increase the power at all on your engine so don't waste the money on those or irridiums.

Depends on the tyres. 20psi is good for some others work best at factory inflation.

Sydneykid, Over in Perth we had a guy with an auto R34 do the e-manage and without the ignition controller he was able to get the same power as a manual R33 (with a fresh engine build) with the same modifications including the same spec turbo. He achieved over 300rwhp. If you just use the ecu software/cable I think it's hard to knock the performance over the S-afc II.

the mod doesn't make your car any faster unless it affects the boost holding characteristic.

2rismo, I can confirm that the casting process forms a skin of harder cast iron that over time is machined through and weakens the whole flywheel. Chromemolly is stronger material (about 400% stronger).

2rismo, You know that I was running much more nitrous than you (about 170hp shot) and yet I drove around with a factory rated pressure plate and a very well made 9 puck clutch (Ross from Autoclutch in perth makes them). This combo continues to last for the cars new owner dispite it being about 3 years old now. The great thing about it is it feels as close to the factory clutch as you can get. Make sure you do the ogura flywheel too. Oh, I almost forgot... GTRken put me onto Ross and he has used the same setup (with a slightly heavier pressure plate) on pretty much all his GTR's including the one's he and others have raced seriously. A couple of 300rwkw GTR's as well.

Inasnt ,sprint32 was claiming 220rwkw at 19psi and with a front mount and link ecu. To be supportive I'd actually like to see that happen, I'm not confident but I don't want to discourage a serious attempt either. My only issue is the fact that sprint32 mistakenly thought someone had already done it. Then again perhaps using a racing fuel and more agressive timing this can be made a reality.

Good old cam gear does it again. All you need now is an exhaust camshaft so you can make the same peak power at 5000rpm.

Emre, The 3 and 4 puck units are designed to be 'on' or 'off', the surface area they have to 'grip' the flywheel after they engage is smaller, it doesn't need to be large because they are not intended to slip at all reducing the heat load. However they do require a much larger pressure over the relatively smaller area to remain 'stuck' to the flywheel vs a fiction plate with more 'puck's' once actually engaged. The factory cast flywheels cast iron contact surface is not as hard as the ceramic material used, especially if it was machined before the clutch was fitted (the outer skin on the casting is the strongest part). I try to use chrome molly flywheels with ceramic's for that reason. The chewed up parts on the flywheel are not due to clutch dumps by the way, thats where you have been riding the clutch in traffic and traffic lights more likely. Interestingly the best way to keep your clutch alive is to 'drop it', this avoids the massive friction involved in 'riding the clutch'. I think when people get their learners permits they seem to have 'riding the clutch' as a built in coping mechanisim for hill starts when with a tiny bit more skill they could avoid a future of owning performance vehilces that need a new clutch every year thanks to that very bad habit. It is something that even the factory GTR handbook/pamphlet on 'How to drive your GTR' (co-written by richards ,skaife and gibson motorsport team) allude to. They suggest '..stepping off the clutch and to avoid riding the clutch but, rather use the tractable nature of the engine to get you quickly away '. Their advice works very well they just left the bit out about rev limiters.

With street driven clutches I think one of the biggest mistakes is in over doing the pressure plate. My last GTST I opted for a sprung center 9 puck ceramic/metal clutch disc and a factory 'used' pressure plate. The factory pressure plate exerts enough force on the clutch disc so that it will bite and not let go. The ceramic has excellent high temp operation and grab but, like all clutch discs it is very important to bed it in properly. Not doing this will take some chunks out of it. Keeping the clutch down to the single disc has the added bonus of keeping the weight down. Also the 9 puck has a greater clamping area over 3 or 4 puck units and therefore requires less force from the pressure plate to do it's job. If you need a heavier clamping pressure plate then see if you can get hold of a centerforce style unit. As they rev they increase the clamping pressure, bite like a pitbull if you rev and dump them.

benm, All the examples you mentioned are easily explained by the difference in 60ft (launch times) and in the case of those who had a little extra wheel spin the 330ft time's if you got hold of those. by my calculations ,using a peice of stale bread and an arc welder, you have about 150 (rev210)rwkw based on your 1/4 mile data. Since I had only 170rwkw odd when I did a 13.3 @ 106mph and a slower 60ft time.

The auto soaks more power up as the power goes up, just like any transmisson does thanks to increased friction from the additional power. You will find quite a large loss if the trans cooler is not large enough to keep the oil in the right temp range. B&M make one that costs about $130 that will make a difference if you haven't got one already.

If you have the Rb26 head / plenum / turbo's and manifold then go for it. The Rb25det head is good however if you have the Rb26 head already it will make an great twin turbo platform, with better throttle response thanks to the better throttle body design.

rjay, don't get cut up about it mate. Quite possibly your car is still as quick or quicker than the others you have seen with higher readings. Take it for a go down the drags. I'm sure the car is faster than when you had the old turbo? If so don't worry about it. Also the turbo's efficiency may be higher than 1 bar of boost.