rev210

Hi Woody, It can be done is the short answer. In the Project RB30 sticky there is a refference to it from memory. Plus I believe sydneykid has/had one of those hybrids in one of his cars. Cheers Dave

SeriesIIgtst, If your in a hurry I've got a malpassi rising rate sitting in my shed you can have for $150. It's brand new.

That idea would suit the dyno queens that can't drive and are too afraid of the power to ever put their foot down. I doubt it ever going to shut down the drag strips considering you can't experience g-forces.

The ones I've seen that I don't like are the sheet metal welded box style end tanks. Give any cooler that uses these a big miss if your interested in good end tank flow.

Sprint32, As I understand it R32 GTS-t's only dyno so far has shown a maximum of 180rwkw, granted it was at a low level of boost, however it doesn't mean 215rwkw if the boost is turned up (that is specualtion till the dyno run is actually done). If you have different info please feel free to post up the dyno chart.

SMB315, I totally agree! Nothing better than the sound of slowness, like the hyundai excel with the 4 inch pipe on the back....I love it! Know a few people with very quick VL turbo's and the few that I've read of running in the 10's and 9's all have a BOV or two because they like to keep the $3-4k turbo/s for a little longer than 1 or 2 runs. Since you aren't interested in going fast, the roads have just become a safer place, the answer to your question is to remove the BOV and place a blanking plate over the hole on the pipe. It should be very easy since you can use the two bolts that hold the factory BOV on and the BOV itself as a template for cutting the sheet metal you need. You will also need to block off the vacume hose that attaches to the top of the factory BOV that leads to the plenum. That is how to get the sound that you want. knock yourself out

I like the sound idiots make is it similar to the VL turbo sound at all? I'd personally like to be able to make the same sound as well (the idiot sound that is) do I need to start threads like this to achieve that goal or is it a case of hitting myself in the head with a lead pipe?

Most auto trans shops that do performance work should be able to adjust the valve body for a 'quickshift'. The quickshift is often reffered to in 'stages' really it's more to do with 'slip', stage 3 when manually shifted 'bangs' into gear with no slip. The torque convertor can also be modified allowing a higher stall speed. I'd say between 2500rpm and 3500rpm would be fine for a road going line'.

Niz, Maybe a couple of gentle pats on the head with a lead pipe will clear his head a little goodness knows it works for me:D If you have the big fuel pump and things ready to support the new big turbo then thats great but, maybe since you didn't get much of a go at the plex last time the factory turbo might provide some usefull experience getting off the line well, since 350rwhp will be a little bit of a handfull.

On the trans cooler side most of the trev shops carry bigger trans coolers by the likes of B&M the one I was looking at for the volvo was part number BM-70266* rated to 28,000 GVW, 11 in. x 8 in. x 1-1/2 in. Just need to check the fittings and mounting position. That unit costs about $130. performance unlimited, A1 and chriss mills may have stock or can supply one within the week.

Naughty Paul! He is such an eager boy, I'm sure he was only trying to be helpfull. Does he talk cars 24/7 or is it just a front to show the blokes? Are you going to run the factory turb for drag combat? If so don't be too cut up about the factory intercooler your times will probably be faster.

Niz, I saw paul and the car last night. Sounds quite healthy. I don't think there is much wrong with the hybrid units perhaps with the exception of the end tanks. I've seen ones with some rather crappy looking end tanks and others with reasonable looking ones. I think if you are going to do the whole turbo / fuel pump / injectors thing then a new intercooler is a sensible upgrade. However, cheap is not and should not be part of your formula for build up. Good value for money , yes but, why not put it off till you have enough cash to allow you to be a chooser rather than a beggar. You might like a slightly larger trans cooler if you go for the 350rwhp too.

the standard pressure plate was used. the clutch plate is $300.

thats cheap considering the whole cluster is worth over $800 new.

I might give the new GTR a kick in the guts at this if I can get back from S.A in time.

I remember my old kit, the bottle used to last quite a long time even when running around 150+ shot, shame I never got it to the drag strip before I sold it to a hooligan

ok i didn't know about the aircon thing. Zanda, Shootout mode may take into account the variables and adjust the figure to suit but, the state of tune your car is in is determined by factors like temperature. If it's particularly hot you may run less timing and boost and more fuel to avoid pinging, this is not able to be compensated for and is very significant to power production.

big figure considering the heatwave we had on the weekend. In the 40 degree mark for most of the two days, even 9:30 last night it was 34. That puts the other national events in better perspective I think.

A brand new paper factory replacement airfilter flows enough, however it blocks up fairly quickly and drops flow. A K&N style panel will retain excellent flow even when pretty dirty. The real power difference between factory and aftermarket is actually bugger all. It always makes me laugh how much people pay for pods sometimes, thinking they are getting so much more power. Try 2 to 4 hp at the motor ---- oooh aaaah it really pushes you back in the seat!

letemlaf, the turbo bearings might outlast other parts on the car but, the seals and fragile ceramic exhaust wheel are another story. The bearings have absolutely nothing to do with how much boost you can run btw. ballbearing Vs plain bearing offer longer life span and slightly better response, so ballbearing is a good thing if you have the luxury of choice. The factory turbo is not a T28 it is a hitachi thing that is close to the same size, it does have a standard T3 exhaust flange as mentioned. It has a ballbearing core and has a ceramic exhaust wheel that limits the everyday boost to 12psi or less if you would like the turbo to last a long time. The good news is that even with this little turbo you can quite easily get an R33 into low 13's over the 1/4 and even a 12. 1bar of boost is not worth the wear on the old tubo for the almost non exisitant improvement if offers. I ran low 13's with the old gtst with 10psi ,a stock intercooler and little else.

yep it's the opposite in perth. I look forward to building a 2rwkw drag car in the new year.

pick it up this arvo.

I think you are looking to win the highest boost without a boost controller on a stock turbo award! (aka "I tried to break my turbine" award also know as the "excuse to buy a new turbo" award and the general "boost is king baby stupidity" award). I think whether or not you use a labelled 'boost controller' to achieve this highest boost thing is irrelevant. I used collected boogers and straw to get 18psi on mine but it broke the turbine.

Is this the english teacher thread? I'm interested to see how this project goes too. Let me know how many people change their ways as a result because I might try it myself. Abo Bob, make sure you post up the results so we won't be dissapointed

to answer the questions funkymonkey; a) The highly modifed gtst if insured legally will cost more than the GTR, considering you have spent the same amount of money and insure it for what it cost you. Maintenance is slightly more on the GTR vs a stock gtst, however with the extra power comes extra wear and breakage so I'd say both are on the sharp end of high maintenance. B) Inexperienced drivers don't belong in either car. Once you decide to get driver training the argument is in favor of the gtr thanks to 4wd in slippery road conditions.