rev210

Well I reckon he's stupid for not liking nitrous oxide It was once said that his wisdom reached beyond even the height of his pants (sydneykid reaches over his shoulder to get his wallet out).

Look at the factory 1/4 mile specs. The STi of the pre-bug eye era will beat the gtst I'd say over the first 400m no problem'o. The other models are another story. It is a rather difficult question in reality since the R33's have plenty of km's on them and are fairly old. None of them were ever factory delivered in australia so you can't vouch for their state of tune being close to the factory spec by the time they arrived here. I beat plenty of WRX's at the actual drag strip in my old R33 running the factory turbo's even some with upgrades. Once you upgrade the turbo however the question is too complicated to answer.

My 2c now that I actually own a GTR as of today (YAY!) is the Boost controller is not needed till you up the boost on a set of aftermarket turbo's. The factory ones go alright at 12psi which they will hold just fine with the restrictor pulled out. No point in killing the factory turb's unless you have some new ones sitting there to go in. Lightweight flywheel is worth a serious look when the clutch is on it's way out too. I may even brave replacement of mine even thought the clutch is ok just because it adds so much extra performance. I think the greddy pulley kit is also worth a look too.

I used to be of the opinion that the gtst was an equal with the additional dollars spent on mods. I now am aquiring an R32 GTR. If you want the tractible power of the gtr's RB26dett you need to buy an RB26dett for your gtst, there goes a good $6000 you have $4k left for mods. You need the RB25/26 gearbox cause the RB20 one is going to die, theres another $2k. You need to replace the gtst brakes with gtr spec ones $1000 , You need the GTR intercooler and piping $1000. This assumes you did all the work yourself and didn't pay anyone. You've just spent your $10k. You don't have 4wd, you have crappy rims (the factory gtr rims are very light and accomodate larger amounts of rubber) & the car looks pretty ordinary by comparison (interior and exterior are better on the gtr). Drive an R32GTR in good nick and I think the argument is settled pretty quick.

welcome to parenthood Rob! The sleep thing (lack of) might only last 3 months, then again........

I had my mate translate the fuse box thing I'll try and find the bit of paper for you.

yes it would have an adverse effect on an auto since the auto has no clutch and flywheel to begin with . Bottom line ios you can't do this mod to an auto. Auto's benifit from modifications to the stall convertor and valve body tho'. the first increases the stall rpm and torque multiplication for great launches. The second increases the speed at which the auto can be shifted and reduces the 'slip' into each gear.

have you got any real 1/4 mile times for the kits yet on the factory rubber? I understand the power to weight ratio lends itself to mid 12's in theory but, the factory suspension setup causes a couple of headaches for traction I hear. Good site by the way!

thank goodness no one is silly enough to insure with hbf. They may be cheap but, boy do they suck on actual repairs and organising them (personal experience)

b005t, the fuel ecconomy is slightly better (accelleration uses more fuel than cruising obviously). The car will slow down faster (engine braking) when the throttle is shut in gear, coasting you do with the clutch 'in' therefore no difference. The car is easier to launch and nicer to drive , any comment's to the contrary are incorrect speculation. I believe the lightweight flywheels are now $600 or less, a bargain! When I get the gtr I'll be fitting one to that for sure.

13.8 with an exhaust on 205's, diffcradle bushes + 10psi of boost the rest stock. 13.4 with the addition on a lightweight flywheel, same tyres etc.

I hope it's today. Then again I am reliant on the finnance co. getting me the money today.

I would if I owned a car. I'm waiting on finance for the new gtr to come through. Ask Lynx, he owns my old car now.

the HKS 264 exhaust cam works with the NVCS and they do have an NVCS 256 & 264 RB25det intake cam as well.

The 2530/2535's like a bit more boost to achieve their best . The power gets jumping with these at 1.2 bar +. A good highflow can make similar power at 1 bar or less. I'm sure there are plenty of power graphs to look at on the forums to get a better idea. The ideal is to have a turbo with a better/higher average power delivery with boost being kept as low as possible to achieve the figure below 250rwkw.

Ok now you can go and do something a bit more respectable down at the drags to further sell the story of the new found power 314rwhp should get you a nice mid 12, especially if the turbo is gutsy in the mid range.

The lightweight flywheel fitted to my old car did nothing to make the car harder to launch or drive. I put one in my car and there was no issues at all. I didn't think you had a lightweight flywheel in your car Cam, perhaps it has a balance issue or something. If you want a flywheel that has been tested by a few then the ogura 4.8kg is a sure bet.

lightweight flywheel will get you there no problem'o. Check the forced induction section for the 13.4 second thread, costs less than $2k. have fun!

welcome to the forums adam. I've just got back from safari in Kruger and now realise my car is truely gone . At least Adam will make a good owner so I know she's gone to a nice home. I sold my kit to 2rismo over east. He's having a bit of fun with it at the track. I'm off to look at cars now.. bye.

sydneykid, A friend of mine is on the RAW's thing for stagea's and his yard has 3 more comming in mid march. There are a few low $20's most are mid $20k asking price.All the stagea RS-four V's I've seen have ABS, strut tower braces, LSD & twin sunroofs (not rare?). The luxury version (120kg heavier yuk!) has the electric leather seats etc. The manual versions for the most part have had accidents on top of being much harder to find.

car is sold.

stay off full throttle for the first 60ft.

with a 'proper' set of plugs and some tuning the times will tumble a bit more.

extra 1psi ! poo to you!

the belts are primarily designed for peventing belt slip on supercharged motors. They drain a fair bit of power. If you have slip on the standard single belt then go twin belt pulleys (lose some more power). If they slip then look at a gilmer (lose even more power again). If you like the mean sounding grinding noise then make up a little idler pulley to bolt on the motor somewhere that turns a set of straight cut gears (for no reason other than to make noise as you rev the engine). *$#%'n rice boys!