rev210

I reckon 500rwkw with the PFC.... just a guess.

RS500, Must be more expensive over east because that one isn't any better than the one's I've looked at (same features and all immaculate) and they are all under $30k for turbo's and the ever present slushbox , yuk! The one I'm looking at is slushbox equiped unfortunately. anyone care to punt on the cost to convert to manual?

Btw do a burnout. You know you want to

The 265's won't hurt, 18's in a low profile are not the best but the wider area is going to help. Stockies are a bit of a handicap if you only have 205's. HIPSI, Wasn't implying anything about your abillity or lack of it. Just a general comment in regards to people who blame themselves when really their cars setup is to blame.

The skill level required at the track (with Stockish R33 gtst skylines being fairly slow) is very basic. I mean can you drive a car in a straight line? Unless you are physically or mentally handicaped then extracting straight line performance is very easy in the driver skill department. This " but you are such a good driver " comment I hear is complete rubbish. Your equipment can let you down tho', it sets all the big limits to performance. My 13.3 second pass consisted of a poor 2.3 second 60ft so that aint good launching. There is more to going fast than rwhp (it helps) there are many speed related issues a dyno doesn't give info on, these are the issues holding 90% of all R33 gtst owners in fairly slow times.

I also did a buch of 13.8s with only a turbo back exhaust and pineapples (I think the 100kgs of work gear in the boot helped too). Both the Dan's and Gus's cars are slower than mine with 40rwhp more 'dyno power' and bigger tyres.

JMS had their Rb25 stock bottom end at just over 600rwhp. Don't know for how long tho'

I'm not sure if this has been covered as a point ,but oxygen O2 acts to burn/react with something by becoming ionic. This is why there aren't explosions all the time in the atmosphere with O2 running into hydrogen.You need a bit of energy to get the ball rolling. The N20 molecule liberates the O ion quite easily under the severity of combustion. This is why in and of itself it is not very flamable but, does add ferosity to an exisiting fire.

My guess is a mid to low 14. It's just a guess but, I've not seen many fmic equiped R33's make it past flat 14's on the stock turbo and ecu. good luck.

During the combustion process in an engine, at about 572 degrees F., (on compression stroke), nitrous breaks down and releases oxygen ions. This extra oxygen creates additional power by allowing more fuel to be burned/oxidised. Nitrogen acts to buffer, or dampen the increased cylinder pressures helping to control the combustion process. Nitrous also has a tremendous "intercooling" effect by reducing intake charge temperatures by 60 to 75 degrees F. However, it is not this oxygen alone which creates additional power, but the ability of this oxygen to burn more fuel. By burning more fuel, higher cylinder pressures are created and this is where most of the additional power is realized. Secondly, as pressurized nitrous oxide is injected into the intake manifold, it changes from a liquid to a gas (boils). This boiling affect reduces the temperature of the nitrous to a minus .127 Degrees F. This "cooling affect" in turn significantly reduces intake charge temperatures by approximately 60-75 Degrees F. This also helps create additional power through greater density. A general rule of thumb: For every 10 Degrees F. reduction in intake charge temperature, a 1% increase in power will be realized. Example: A 350 HP engine with an intake temperature drop of 70 Degrees F, would gain approximately 25 HP on the cooling affect alone. The third point, the nitrogen that was also released during the compression stroke performs an important role. Nitrogen acts to "buff or dampen" the increased cylinder pressures leading to a controlled combustion process.

Do you want to enter the special olympics? the comparison of dyno readouts has just been made an official event.

funny the dyno thing really. I am a long time detractor of it's road going merits as a comparison between cars. It's a good tuning tool as a relative guide thats it. The air temp is adjusted for in the shootout mode from memory however the fact that you are stuck with lower timing and boost settings effects the power to a degree the software can't predict. The right way to do power runs is with the bonnet down and there are plenty of places that don't do that. I had mine tuned a little the other day and got about 240rwhp, it was a 55deg intake temp day in the booth and I did the run with the bonnet down and boost at about 10psi. AFR's were left in the low 11's. 235 rwhp in mine got me the 13.3 @106mph previously. So my 235rwhp is more power than everyone else's 280rwhp (talking stock turbos). Sounds stupid doesn't it? Yep dyno comparisons have just entered the special olympics as an event.

I think BOOSTD and someone else has run a 12.9 on the std unit.

not a good idea. The standard flywheel is cast iron. Cast iron's strength is in it's outer skin, removing this material then renders the item much weaker. Having a flywheel assembly let go at speed is one of the worst possible situations you can find yourself in. I've seen a few pictures of what happens and it aint pretty.

the ogura weighs only 4.8kg ( lighter = better). The R34 GTT has runs the same engine and trans as the R33 so just get one of those. I ordered mine from takaira.com.

the flywheel is cheap with the current exchange rate. Go find out at takakaira.co.jp remove the panel and it allows the air to flow better through the intercooler, better still is to make some ducting for it and cut a hole in the panel instead. I did not tape the exhaust manifold since it is made of cast iron and when unevenly insulated (tape is a problem here) it cracks due to uneven expansion. The cheapest way to upgrade the std turbo is to add a 55mm TO4 V-trim compressor into the machined out std housing (you need to machine the ditch again in the same way as the stock compressor housing inlet snout has to prevent surge) , then add a VG30 exhaust housing and machine the snout by 3mm so the standard ceramic wheel has extra clearence and agin it reduces surge. BOOSTD has perfected this idea and made 250rwkw with it , should cost $500 or so to do. S15 turbos are the wrong flange and are smaller than the RB25 turbo to start with. On the news front my car will shortly be sold. I recently put it on the dyno for a quick tune. The result was around 240rwhp odd, the power was limited to this upwards of 5,000rpm due to the extreeme intake heat (54 deg C ) and the fact that I did not play with the dial in of the exhaust cam. As usual I did the runs with the bonnet down. AFR's where kept in the low 11's due to the heat. In it's present state of tune a 12second pass on the 205's should be within reach. Even easier if the tune is taken a little further.

yes you can hide the solenoids, I did it on mine. I think we should move this thread to the 'wasteland' due to it's quality contributions and the fact that it isn't really about 'performance' at all.

zex.... it's the nitrous brand for rice boys, they chose the colour purple (anyone want to guess why?)

use a foot spa. Better still a propper ultrasonic bath (availible from jaycar etc).

I'm about two weeks away from buying mine. They are fairly cheap (under $30k). I've driven two so far and they are suprisingly well balanced for a wagon. They need some extra grunt to cope with the weight tho' .

Dan, What about an R32 GTR with more fruit on it for the same money. The GTR has a better pedigree unless you are chasing some rally action.

what about a stagea, rs-four v? I'm getting one. They can be had for mid 20's and with the spare coin you could turn it into a manual autech version with an R34 front plus few more horses that will do 11's, go around corners and have people saying wtf !

In that case perhaps they should have parrachutes stuck on the boot as well.

since the install of nitorus is not going to be done properly anyway why not use a cheap alternative like carbon dioxide.

I reckon go a D-cutout or a Q-cutout and prevent things from spoiling fast by keeping it in the fridge in an airtight container.