rev210

As for quick times on radial tyres at perth's own Motorplex drag strip.... There are always a few street registered cars that run low/mid 8's on radials (sorry skyline fans they are all V8's). None of them use Nitto's.

I think I might have been hasty in my generalisation. I just seem to see and hear of alot of rear wheel drive car owners unable to extract decent (for semi slick) 60ft's from the Nitto's considering how expensive they are compared to the other brands. I've seen low 1.5's out of BFG's in rearwheel drive only cars with very modest power to weight ratio's ,unlike keir and munro's monsters , and fairly average suspension. For the money I still think the traditional BFG and Mickey T's offer the best bang for buck and overall performance (not sure if the nitto's last longer for road driving tho' so that might be a bonus).

the greddy kit does not include the crank pulley. Therefore there is no problem potential at all.

Might explain my times if this turbo was actually off my car. My turbo has twin blades tho' for the record.

I'm not suprised about that Cam the series 1 turbo's are better for power.

Try and do it with the stock turbo . I'd be looking at BFG drag radials tyres wise and a good working over of the suspension. With BFG's you should get the 60ft down to high 1.5's / low 1.6's (like to see that out of sh*tto's). A modifed transbraked Turbo 350 auto with a 5000rpm high stall and a lower diff ratio might help too.

30. there is a theory that life seems to go as fast as you are old (in mph). So far things are still pretty slow, can't wait to get to 200

my simple take on the matter is that you have a problem somewhere between the fittment of the new cam gear. If the factory method was followed this involves the removal and replacement of the cam belt etc.. In most installs the existing cam belt is simply stretched to allow the fittment, this is not a great thing to do on a fairly old belt. The additional stretch may cause an issue. Why not rip out the dial guage and see where things are again? This is not issolated to R34's , a person who did this on his R33 I know of had the same net result the difference being he experienced a loss of power at any other setting other than factory. As in his instance there is always an underlying issue. Heat soak in a dyno environment can rob the modest power gains as well.

is your suspension stuffed Rob? If not don't worry about it (the check).

using std springs with my 264 hks 9mm

the panel at the back and the ducting is a good idea. The cooler is pretty crappy in design, it's size isn't too bad tho'. The R34 intercooler is slightly larger but suffers from the same crappy end tank design and core, should work a little better all the same.

I tuned my S-afc myself. Results: my car goes faster! Then again the s-afc saved my engine from really big problems once by dialing in the fuel to close to a 9-1 AFR, to help try an soften a blocked injector issue. Didn't make the car faster or more powerfull tho'.

nothing wrong with lovells. They are a good spring, as good as any.

the car is back from the camshaft install, needs 500kms to run in the cam then back for a dyno tune and after that and a couple of little bits sorted the car may just appear at the track for a run or three. The camshaft appears to have added a fair bit of stick even keeping the revs to 4500rpm and the throttle to 50%. The little factory turbo gets excited very quickly indeed.

The camshaft duration on the R34 neo motor is different to the R33 RB25det from memory. On top of that the setting of the exhaust cam requires a change to the base timing as well. Funny how people don't do this and end up wondering why the exhaust cam gear mod does nothing. I have a 1995 R33 and I can assure you the exhaust cam gear is good value for money. I have plenty of good evidence for my advice from my own car. BTW you might like to partition the pod filter if it isn't already as the power actually drops over the stock filter without a cold air partition in there.

There are a couple of ways to go here. If you assume that you don't want to upgrade the standard turbo then what you want is a package that makes the most of it performance wise. Lightweight flywheel and heavy duty clutch plate --- $1300, Replacing the flywheel will improve your accelleration significantly and the new power is going to kill the old clutch anyway so replace that while your at it. S-AFC II --- $600 inc tune, these are quite cheap to get the afr's in the right spot and cost $100 to tune since they only take less than an hour on a dyno. Plus you can always recover most of what you spent on them by selling it when the new ecu replacement is really needed (say on a new big turbo). Bleeder valve --- $90, It's not fancy but it will do to get the boost to 10-12 psi and they are very easy to put in yourself. Adjustable exhaust cam gear --- $150, nothing like making 10 horses more right through the power band and getting the turbo in 500rpm earlier. High volume fuel pump --- $350, see how you go here With the rims, try to get yourself some lightweight forged ones. If you must get 18's then do so but understand that they are in my opinion a little too big to be considered a performance upgrade. Try find some nice looking forged 16x8's or 17's and spend the spare coin on good rubber. Leave the PFC and front mount till you are getting ready for a bigger turbo if you ever decide to go that way. The front mount or aftermarket side mount could be purchased earlier if you want to start circuit racing.

Trust make a slightly larger version of the stock intercooler with the R-SPL core. It should do for 400hp worth of air and provide excellent response. Up from that perhaps the smallest core size for a front mount would do quite well in the same brand, for more circuit style fun.

For sale as of two weeks time. (perth) 1995 (series 1.5) R33 GTST. manual. RB25DET -- engine just rebuilt, slightly warmed up to suit later upgrade of turbo.HKS exhaust adjustable camshaft pulley HKS step 1 264 degree exhaust camshaft are being fitted over the next week, once run in and re-tuned dyno figures will be posted. 1/4 mile info on the new combination may also appear over time. The rest of the mods include Apexi S-afc 3 inch FGK cat back Thermal wrapped custom stainless dump/front pipe and hiflow cat. K&N Panel filter Bosch motorsport fuel pump Ogura chrome molly lightweight flywheel (4.8kgs) Ceramic button clutch Turbosmart boost controler. Whiteline suspensions diff cradle kit KCA349 also has a 7 disc CD stacker and pillar mounted boost guage together with the rest of the M-spec factory stuff. The entire car has been resprayed silver and is in imaculate showroom condition. Before the rebuild the car saw a best 1/4 mile time of 13.3 with a serious tuning issue and even a poor 60ft and still dyno'd over 170rwkw at only 4500rpm due to the same issue. The recent rebuild will see a substancial amount more power without any loss of smoothness and the abillity to run a 12 second 1/4mile without too much fuss. $23,000ono (all reasonable offers considered since the vehicle must be sold very soon to make way for the 'new' work car ). Pics and things will be posted up shorlty.

Depending on what sort of power you decide upon leave most of that 'porting' alone. If the head requires a reco' then just get the combustion chamber bowl area cleaned up a little. The radius on the stock head aren't too bad. The intake and exhaust ports might like a bit of smoothing to remove cast imperfections although the ports themselves even with 'the bumps' will still flow a large amount of power. With power of the order of 450hp or less the rule 'ain't broke don't fix it applies' and you even save time and money yay!. With the die grinder you can smooth things off but, without experience in matching the ports evenly don't try to increase the size of anything.

I go to full 90 degrees and do 6 to 8reps. That time round it was 8. my target is 600kg. I do 120kg on the decline?(opposite of incline) version of bench press which because I've only done bench press for 3 months I think is better self congradulation wise than the leg press. My target for that one is 200kg for the end of the year.

what where the results of the events?

The last time I used the leg press was to press 560kg, at that level most of the sound is just random screams of terror (think shaggy from scooby do cartoon) as you lower the weight in anticipation of a leg snapping off and being crushed.

I think the gym is an evil place of torture, that beep test is so named becasue they beep out the swearing whilst you attempt it. I live in mortal fear of the next visit to the gym. I congratulate myself for not becoming a human accordian under the leg press machine last week.

Jay, I know the factory ones can pass enough air because I've seen it. If people were more sceptical about aftermarket BOV claims less people would waste their money and get defects. Put it to the manufacturers to prove their case and provide us with hard data comparisons. Lets not just take thier side and assume they are right afterall their main concern is making a profit (and who can blame them for that?).

Roy, We wouldn't be arguing at all. The factory style units have been used on cars with 700hp engines even on applications of upto 30psi or so of boost. I've yet to see any hard evidence to prove the effectiveness of an aftermarket BOV over the factory unit, let alone a modified factory unit. Accelleration examples are nowhere to be found because without dodging the figures the aftermarket BOV has no advantage. Show the conclusive proof and I'll change my mind. I have examples of cars with lots of power without the aftermarket ones.