rev210

the trust intercooler is availible from takakaira.co.jp / greenline and nengun. The side mounting of the intercooler has the advantage of much better airflow than the front mounting except the space is a little restricted.

the next best thing is alchohol/water injection as someone else has mentioned this is excellent for high boost applications. The best alchohol is isopropyl by the looks.

geez a fmic kit and exhaust for less than $1000!

the standard intercooler can be improved upon. My reccomendation is the trust tube and fin bolt in replacement. Around $900 and will support 200rwkw. There has been a few R33's to get 200rwkw on the factory turbo, some with the times to back it up too. For street use and the occasional drag strip visit a front mount can be put off till you do some better value for money mods. I know of one gtst in perth with both factory ic and turbo to pull 211rwkw on a dyno that reads fairly btw.

the pipe is very similar to the VL turbo. On the Vl you pick up around 7hp just through improved flow , without the pipe suckinh shut issue.

DezertEagle, The exhaust is a good place to start. $600 for a bolt on second hand jap 'cat back', japanese motorsport and others do them. $295 for a front pipe and dump pipe in mild steel $90 for a basic bleeder valve to increase boost $100 for the pineapples $600 for an ogura 4.8kg lightweight flywheel (JMS has a toda racing one for $495) $100 for the K&N panel filter (buy it when the old one gets dirty and needs replacement filters don't do much for performance on a stockie). The flywheel and clutch plate will need fitting so there's going to be some labour costs if you don't do it yourself. With the exhaust start with the dump pipe/front pipe first if you need to buy in stages.

The R33 Gtst's are pretty easy to get into the 13 second 1/4 mile bracket, even if your an average driver. The best things to do to make things happen are; 1) pineappples for the diff cradle. Only $100 and say hello to some more traction. 2) A decent exhaust. Nothing over the top but, do the turbo dump pipe, perhaps you already have a cat back exhaust on the one your buying? the dump pipe is about $300. 3) a K&N panel filter. only $100 This with a decently maintained gtst will get you into a 13.8 for $500 spend. For a mid 13 ;spend another $800 on a lightweight flywheel and good clutch plate (the pressure plate may not require replacement and the factory unit isn't bad for clamping pressure on a light mod car). For a total of around $2k spend it's not unreasonable to achieve a 12 second pass or low 13's. My best of 13.3 was achieved with a injector issue limiting top end power and on little 205 tyres with a very ordinary launch. Contrary to what someone has said you will not lose to an equal driver in an: XR6 turbo (my volvo wagon beats them) V8 ute And you may find yourself beating the occasional modded silvia (my car is quicker than most of them I know of) and certainly the majority of R32 gtst's.

If it's the factory s14 turbo then it would be a silly thing to do.

without a measurement for the air to fuel ratios it's pretty hard to tune perfectly. But not impossible to tune reasonably for some more power than you have, assuming you don't already have really good afrs. The knock monitor helps a little. The other issue is the base timing, this interacts with the fuel map to determine your limits. Tuning by ear is a bit of a problem even with the knock monitor, it took me quite some time to get a reliable tune out of mine.

The comodore was faster and thats the end of it till you have another go. I'm sure it was all good fun and you will get better with practice too. Excuses don't win you any races. However to listen to some skyline owners you would think they certainly believe it does.

The Neo head has nothing to offer. The RB26 head would perhaps offer a better starting block for a big power setup, mild it's a serious waste of money for $2k. A bang for buck mod looks like the 264 deg exhaust camshaft with a stock intake cam based on some computer sims. Upto 50hp over the standard and up everywhere over the rev range without any sacrifice to off boost. My car is a few days from completion.Engine should be fully assembled and in engine bay by today. We will see how the computer sim works in real life.

yeah see I ran 13.3 without a fmic in the R33 and others with a fmic have run 12.9 on the stock turbo so the old R33's can be made to go quite well. There are alot that are slugs tho' due to poor tuning. I think the R32 is going to be a better handling choice once modified. And does offer power to weight advantages once serious mods to the engine begin.

The system used is the same as the PFC selection. I'd say comments that it does not work would be perhaps related to other issues including buying second hand Z32 AFMs that are rooted. Considering both versions of the blue screen AFC do this function, if it didn't work I doubt they would bother with a re-release of the function (disfunction).

it may run into the housing and shatters at high shaft speeds (beyond the facotry balance point?). By removing material from the snout this appears to allow greater boost to be run.

the s-afc and the s-afc II allow for the use of the z32 AFM on the R33 and any other AFM using listed car. The input and output are just set accordingly.

* just a bit more info. The series 1 turbo's are the best for power by the looks (most series 2 R33's don't get near the same power figures perhaps due to some of them having the later plastic wheel compressor). A friend's R33 series 1 made 284rwhp (211rwkw) with the same turbo for example.

takakaira.com.jp is where I got my flywheel from (ogura brand ) depends on freight and exchange rate, $600?

just get a basic bleeder valve. The two stage boost setting is a waste of time. Your car comes factory with a boost controller (it's your right foot).

mupkant, No problems doing the bleed valve first. The exahust is always a good thing but, if you got no $ then the $90 for a bleeder is cheap and gets rid of the 'two step' boost of the factory controller. You can always keep the boost down to 10psi to save the ceramic turbine. It works. so go do it.

Will sell by next friday to the highest offer. So far $450.

the car is off the road for respray and engine rebuild. Hopefully back this week. The engine will be stock with a HKS exhaust cam. Running factory turbo and ic. The s-afc II has been sold and a standard safc in its' place. The rest of the car is still as it was.

SOLD. Answer to above post was .. yes.

Yes it's a good approach to going quicker for sure. Keeping an eye on things thermal is good too. There are some improvements that can be made there as well.

leave the 4.36 gears unless you want a slower 1/4 mile. The custom intake manifold and the front mount intercooler are possibly doing you no favours.The increased pipe length and total volume reduce the engine response time. As quite a few people have proven an intercooler around the same size as factory is ideal for the factory turbo.Also,the factory plenum is quite fine to over 500HP, it is moot whether the 'good' aftermarket ones are much better on mild tune engines at all. Any overfueling between gear changes can be put down to the aftermarket BOV ( I bet the factory one works better) if you are still running the std ecu. Basically if you had my stockish RB25det in your car you would be down the 1/4 in mid 12's easy. You have a fair bit to sort out by the looks. The dump pipe and front pipe won't hurt either.You might like to put a de-cat pipe in as well. Best of luck.

Series 1 R33 turbo in good condition. $600ono