rev210

well with those mods you can expect to run a 13.3 on little unevenly inflated 205 tyres with a 2.3 60ft and only using 4500rpm (because you have a blocked injector). This will also be around 235rwhp or so with super rich afrs in the 9's. If you decided to swap the 205's for a set of decent 255's then with a 2.0 60ft you'll be doing 12.9's. I ran 13.4 without the S-afc or the cam gear. The great thing about the factory setup is the potential to squeeze more responsiveness out of it. Forget the fmic to being with, when you run out of engine response based mods or you go a bigger turbo then have a look at it.

thanks phantom for adding that. I was thinking the large mass (and therefore inertia) of the factory harmonic balancer and flywheel that will excite this tortional vibration frequency. So by dramatically reducing the weight and inertia of the crank pulley, the amplitude is reduced and frequency of the crankshaft is moved and its ability to self-excite is greatly reduced. So in fact it is the harmonic balancer's own weight that necessitates the dampening. An alloy pulley of 0.8kg or less may not supply an exciting force significant enough to damage the crankshaft in some cases, also its outer diameter being far smaller. If I understand you depending on the engine and its application a harmonic balancer at the front may not be required or the original will become inadequate if various engine characterisitcs are changed. "if the manufacturer put it there, it must be there for a reason". However, if you look at it from the car manufacturer's point of view, casting pulleys from steel is very cheap and easy, because they can be produced in large numbers and there is no waste (as opposed to machining them from billet). But because the resulting pulley weighs significantly more than one made from aluminium alloy, it requires dampening. I had the oppertunity to fang around in an S2000 on the weekend, no harmonic balancer it had a billet alloy pulley and a 9000rpm redline. Power wise there is no 'power' gain to changing the weight of the front pulley. The reduced inertia however will increase the acceleration significantly in lower gears. Making the lack of extra power a non issue given you are quicker anyway. Where power may be gained is in the reduction of the ratio's of the accessories. A modest amount but the reduction is primarily aimed at giving the alternator an easier life at high rpms and stopping the water pump cavitation at sustained high rpm. From experience I am quite keen to machine up a front pulley for the RB25 for street/strip use.

try a NOS kit for $2k , or second hand even less. I just sold my kit for $700 it's on its way over east right now. I have yet to ride in a car that feels quicker than when I had the gas on.

copper plugs are fine. The spark plug is selected to 'survive' a particular engine condition. Plainum and iridium plugs are 'easy clean' but are no more robust than a copper plug of the same spec.

the turbo dump pipe etc. needs to be done before the 'thermal wrapping', other than that do in any order you like.

Paul, 10% underdriven ratio would be good. The important thing is to have the pulleys made light.

1) Pineapples $100 (Minimise the wheel spin) 2) 4.8kg flywheel $700 (rev your engine faster taking less time to accellerate and build boost). 3) HKS exhaust cam gear $200 (bring the boost on 500rpm earlier and get a few extra hp over the rev range). 4) Thermal wrap $100. (wrap the dump pipe to the cat and also the trubo to intercooler pipe, to increase the gas velocity (spool turbo quicker/earlier and reduce underbonet temps). 5)Turbo Dump ,front and decat pipe $400. 6) S-AFC II, $500

No.

13.6 on a gtech. NOT a real drag strip. The 300kw ones struggle to do sub 14 passes on a real dragstrip. we are talking a slow car. then again many an R33 runs like a peice of poo too.

Niz, sorry to hear about the prang. It must be a month for bingles, mindless animals causing damage to skylines, yours being behind the wheel of a car. hope your ok

the timing belt got cut when the fan shroud broke off, don't know how bad the damage is. So the engine will get pulled.

simonster, my flywheel is 5.2kg lighter than stock and has less mass on the outside edges as well (custom chromemolly). The flywheel is very streetable. I'd take an even lighter version in a second. The 'streetable' description is very subjective. Some will work around low rev and high load vibrations others want to drive like nanna. 5kgs lighter is still fine for nanna btw.

sorry cam, I've been shuttled off twice to S.A in the last week and haven't had a chance to drop it off. It's sitting at home , I drop it back to you when I'm back next week.

The good old nissan front bar did it's job and the chassis didn't even get a scratch, so the insurence co. has agreed to fix it since the damage isn't as bad as it looks. As it stands I'll get a whole car re-spray, courtesy of my brother who works there. I'm thinking of getting an aftermarket front bar. The engine will also get a freshen up too. Then I will have to sell it again

turbospike bleed valve. As sydneykid suggested the insulation of the valve and hoses does minimise the spike issues. With all manual bleeders the ambient temp causes boost variation (ie: more boost when cold), so you need to adjust them constantly as temp varies. Electronic controllers offer the automation of this control.

sorry rob, I'm in adelaide and darwin till next sunday. Perhaps I can install the cam gear, next sunday in the arvo' , 2:00pm?

40psi

the chrome reflects alot of light. In the cabin you have a very very small chance of the light getting in your eyes when the sun is at the wrong angle. A rather weak excuse but, an excuse none the less.

block the thing off and turn the boost controller right down.

Nengun is good! Bought a few items through it.

about the same cost to get the R33 gtst into 12's as the silvia, however the silvia costs less to start with.

INASNT, Sorry mate someone over east has already pretty much bought it. He asked me even before I damaged the car, so I said I'd give him first dibs.

HKS Cam gear SOLD.

Since I can't use them at the moment, I may as well sell them off. Apexi Super AFC II $450 ----- SOLD HKS Exhaust Cam Gear (suit RB25DET) $200--- SOLD Both are good little performance enhancers for the factory package on an R33 skyline or RB25DET powered vehicle.

Next time I won't be making the night drive home, I'll just stay at the esplanade and have a few beers at the bar in front of the fire.