rev210

Luck was not on my side on tuesday night. I was driving home from albany and a pack of roos decided to have a go at my car. one of them took out my front end busting the front spoiler and lights an another two bounced off the sides of the car. The damage left the car undrivable and a broken peice of the radiator shroud cut the timing belt by the looks. Now I have to wait for the whole insurance thing, before I can drive around again.

car is now 'off' the market.

don't do it! getting the top bolts off the bellhousing are a bitch. You need about 3 socket extensions and two flexi-sockets. Taking the gearbox out and putting the clutch (and reccomended flywheel ) in is easy. Putting the gearbox back in is a complete bastard! It took me two days.

nickg, The standard BOV can have the psssht noise if you put a screw in the small air bleed on the underside of the factory BOV. If you have a pod filter the noise will be reasonably loud and the best thing is the cops can't ping you for it.

for a picture: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/at...=&postid=503901

Warps, I need lots of help this financial to drop into a lower tax bracket, as my car is paid for via a 'car allowance' that attracts no tax throughout the year, if deductions aren't low enough then big tax payments are order of the day.

paul, dont forget.

my wife has agreed to allow the volvo wagon down the plex' yay! I love that woman!

if it's 100% business use claimed like mine. I tell the tax dept. that my car is worth less each year and get a deduction out of it. If all of a sudden I sell my car for 6K more than I told them it was worth last year they make me pay tax on the profit as a form of income.

A healthy tuned gtst of the ilk you describe will put down a sub 14 1/4 mile pass. Go buy a Whiteline KCA349 rear diff cradle kit (bout $100) to make sure you hook up off the line a little easier. Put a light flywheel in and you can get mid 13's with 10 psi of boost. The A3 does a 15 second 1/4 mile, high 15's on a 'real' dragstrip (magazine tests are conducted on road surfaces wich always yeild better times --- think g-tech, this goes for the factory skyline car claims)

morboost, I'm afraid I can't ask more than $16k for it, otherwise I pay capital gains tax on the sale next financial. It's just a bit of a 'freak deal', most of the time 95' models like mine will go for over $21k (you can quote me on that for people with issues on your price).

The stock one was dead? Sure it was :bahaha:

Don't need a dyno if you have skill

Good thing the factory skyline BOV is good, so you don't need to change it unless your a rice boy type , lets face it if you don't get a yellow for the BOV you get one for the neons

sounds like you bought a 'fixer-up-er'. The hicas controller shouldn't be unplugged, unless you have a hicas lock kit installed.

It's a bit of a very rough guesstimation, since the real calculation of RON is done on a knock engine. My idea (probably wrong) is that the chemicals present do not adversly effect each others RON/MON by reaction. That way we can work out the rough average RON of the mixture. I guess the bottom line is that the Toluene or Xylene mixture is definately better than the ocatne boosters commonly found on the auto store shelf.

yep.

ok lets pick nits then. if I was reffering to alcohols like ethanol as a 'solvent' then I'd be wrong wouldn't I. Just like saying water is a solvent. I should have said petrolium based solvent or something. I believe the 'new' version of liquid paper doesn't contain xylene anymore (it used to), same as the old artline markers.

the safc II, has two 'memory' settings.

Price drop to $16K. It's going without the NOS Kit for $16k and $17k with it. CONDITION: 102,000kms regular servicing including transmission and diff. Presently the car has a crease in the rear bumper and a few minor scratches, which will cost about $500-600 to clean up properly and the price reflects this. Interior is good. and it has a factory 7disc CD stacker/tuner and drivers airbag. MODS. * K&N Airfilter and modified airbox * HKS exhaust cam gear * Ogura Racing Chrome Molly flywheel * 9 puck ceramic compound clutch * FGK Super Ti cat back exhaust (very quiet and flows well) * Custom Stainless steel turbo dump pipe and front pipe, with thermal wrapping. * Apexi Super AFC II and sought after 95' ecu * Peltier cooler on standard intercooler. * Whiteline KCA349 diff cradle kit. * Bosch Motorsport in tank fuel pump * NOS EFI Nitrous kit (hidden underbonet) with 10lb bottle and 100hp jets. New nitrous solenoid. The last outing saw the car run 13.3 and has since had a major tuning issue resolved which will has it making easy 12 second power. With larger decent rear tyres fitted 12's will not be a problem without NOS. The NOS activation offers the potential for low 12's and with the simple fittment of the 100hp jet an 11second pass.

toluene does not harden fuel line rubber. If it did (which it doesn't) then ordinary petrol would do exactly the same. Your thinking of methanol, which does promote corrosion of metal parts and rubber lines. Alcohol is water soluble which is the problem. I can assure you that toluene is quite easy to use and the car loves it.

The stock internals are pretty strong, the problem is the RB25 compression is a tad too high to start with. Rob's got a 'cadbury turbo', a bar and a half of full boost.....

yes but, we are yet to crack a turbo too.

At "The Clink" in freo, this friday night. Event starts at 10pm goes to 1am or so. I may or may not be presiding over part of the nights event, subject to my wife being there.

The AFM can cause the 'hunting', just clean it. Usually happens to cars with oil based filters (K&N).