rev210

MazdaRX4 Coupe x2 Dodge plymouth 1940 Valiant VK V8 Charger Mazda RX2 4 door VB V8 commo Mazda 929 coupe Mazda cappella x 2 Mazda 808 wagon Restored EH wagon Merc 280SEL V8 Bluebird wagon x2 1977 Volvo wagon R33 gtst Escort Mark I panel van might be a few more I may have missed. Probably half a dozen unlicenced burnout cars too.

ball bearing.

temps from the turbo to the cooler can reach those of a heat gun (the thing you use to bend and melt PVC).

massage the spine at the base of your skull , you might notice that the supporting muscle is tense. Happens to office people quite alot and also people who are tall, slouch and don't have retain a good standing posture (like me).

Maaate... you need to have a look at mine, I've got a 'good base' car for you. With your choice of Nitrous or non-nitrous config.

just don't make the pipe from turbo to cooler out of PVC mate.

what do you want for the decat pipe mate?

pay $3k etra and get mine

R33 , go the whales! For large hose clamps go to bunnings, make sure you measure the pipe first so you get the right size.

R33 , go the whales! For large hose clamps go to bunnings, make sure you measure the pipe first so you get the right size.

Does it still get hot tho'? Most coatings I've seen still get pretty warm on the manifold side of things.

Me and a mate have used PVC pipe for an intercooler, the problem was that we used PVC plumbing elbows instead of 1 long peice of pipe, it worked great upto about 14psi. After the boost went up it blew the elbows off. You can use PVC after the intercooler but, not before cause it will melt.

you need to cut the cable ties after you have the stainless hose clamps in place, maybe not necessary to cut them off on the dump pipe because the tape traps so much heat that they will never melt.

Paul did you wrap the exhaust manifold as well? For that you will require the 1 inch wide stuff ( a small roll ) and some small stainless hose clamps, actually you can use cable ties to secure the wrap ( very handy to do as you go to prevent the wrap losing tension --- an old trick). In the case of the dump pipe the cable ties are very handy. I'd probably consider getting the turbo 'beanie kit', it comes with enough wrap for the dump pipe and a nice cover for the turbo exhaust housing.

you have one just 'lying around'? You don't happen to have a de-cat pipe just lying around do you? BTW, I reckon you and Rob77 should go halves in a set of BFG's to put on Rob's spare pair of wheels, then you can go setting low 11's down mate.

thermal wrap can be got from Revolution race gear is osb. park (hutton street). If you want the DEI stuff (has a little marker line to make wrapping easy).

The track never has any 'grip' mate. Should go because then you can do a back to back 'no grip' comparison to the old setup. I'd like to take mine down and do some NOS passes

Paul , Don't forget.

car will go to the drags shortly to hopefully run a 12' without the gas.

it's a rotory turbo kit. Would make about 500HP max, the thing will be a bit laggy.

Timing/spark issue mate. The ECU retards the timing around that mark, possibly too much in your case. The coils may need a bit of a light sanding to ensure good earthing contact when they are bolted up too. If you like come round this morning and I'll have a qiuck look if you want. (I'll PM my mobile No. and address). Dave

vortex kit?

Whilst the noise can be an issue (not on the stock one) the other things are all wives tales. RX7's are easy to maintain, for the performance don't cost much to run in fuel and emissions from factory are just as good as any other car by law.

the wastegate acutator is the issue. It isn't the best quality unit in the world. The HKS actuator will help, isn't really worth it on the stock turbo though. Dropping boost probably saves the factory one from going bang sometimes.

this is very true