rev210

nitto's aren't the best around. Try the BFG drag radial TA's, not the new 'G-force' version it's not as good. www.vpwmailorder.com has info and pricing on them. I think Hoosier make a street tyre slick as well.

Aidwin, Where did you get the turbo from? What's it made from/specs?

I've been hiring cars for 3 years or so for work interstate, so here are a couple: In Kalgoorlie I hired an Avalon grande'. It was my first visit to the mining town and in the suburban areas the roads are extra wide (for trucks in the old days I guess) These roads have a huge dip in them. At 70kmh I got the Avalon airborne for a few metres ala dukes of hazard (yeeeeeee haaaaaa!). And boke part of the front spoiler thing (which I super glued back on without penalty). I return to Kal 4 times a year and continue the tradition, as little as 60kmh will do for one intersection in a commodore (the legal speed limit actually). I regualrly do brake burnouts when in S.A, I particuarly like the Enfield shopping complex speed bump and all the traffic lights coming back from Munna Parra to the city at night. In Darwin I get to top speed test all the cars legally just 15min out of town or so. In Sydney I found the handbrake turn works very well around frenchs forest in a new camry, as does holding the auto in 1st gear to redline till you smell burning trans fluid. Mmmmm...burning trans fluid.

I reckon most people here would wish you the best of luck in finding a cheap R33 'gem'. We all like a success story around here, if the comments seem a little negative then it's only because we don't want you getting stung. good luck mate.

bump.

The number of 'decent' skylines on the market is rather low. Once you have driven a good one you will know what I mean.There are many 'good lookers' with mechanical issues. I'd say ignor the low kms tags and just evalutate the mechanicals for themselves. After all this is what low kms is supposed to indicate. If you can find a 'good' R33 for $17,999 then you are laughing. Most around are not 'good'. Expect upwards of $22k for something decent, that sort of budget is realistic. More for a 95' in good nik or a series 2.

drop the clutch, feed the throttle.

dude, The engine both before and after looks like it exhibits an ignition fault or another kind of fault none the less. There are 'bumps' in the power curve although less obvious in the 'after' run, they are still visable. The car clearly has a fault in the power delivery, that continues to be present 'after' your ecu reset. So we can't very well claim the reset fixes anything or even makes it better, given the fault is clearly still present. Intake and engine temps and all sorts of things can have bearing on the magnitude of the fault making this evidence for ecu reset rather weak. I have not reset my ecu, since doing quite a number of modifications. My car is a fairly quick factory based ecu car. Would it be quicker after a reset? I can't be stuffed doing it because it won't be, why waste my time. At the end of the day an ECU reset done properly is not going to hurt anything so if people want to try it go ahead. It may or may not fix a glitch, after all it is still an ECU and therefore not immune to error. So knock yourselves out ,better than throwing rocks at dogs for an afternoon I guess.

I can explain it as I explained it earlier. Unless you have a 'problem'. Sorry the dyno chart proves there is nothing happening with a reset, contrary to you thinking it was. GraemeWi, by the looks of the dyno the first 'red line' shows an ignition fault similar to dirty plugs, after a few good runs particularly with platinum plugs they will be 'cleaner'. There are 'bumps' present still in both charts indicating this is the reason for the difference. Each subsequent 'power' run will slightly improve the condition. In 'Closed loop' operation , the oxygen sensor may be re-calibrated on a reset. But it's 'closed loop', meaning very light throttle only. Like I said it does nothing.

if your running 10+ psi of boost then 0.75mm. I have the same plugs.

Cam, it appears that it is probably the little vacume hose we found. Even after we blocked it up as soon as I took off it was doing the same thing again. Normally when I take off quick I get a decent amount of wheel spin, unlike last night. I'll probably do a propper job of blocking the hose off today and see what happens.

resetting the ecu, if you have 'no faults' will not make your car go faster or improve mileage. The fuel and ignition map is exactly the same, before and after. The ecu DOES NOT remap. It will run the maps it always had. I used to think it had some effect but after owning the car for almost 3 years I can assure you that it does nothing.

mate I can call past early if needs be, if you have the BOV with you at work I can probably call past too. I'll give you a buz later mate. see ya I off to eat lunch.

Cam, the secondaries are probably clogged, I recently rebuilt the carb with a kit and sometimes little bits of casket sealant can fall into the needle holes, should be easy to clean. The other problem is the vacume diaphram opener is stuffed so you have to 'feed' the throttle or it bogs down (not a big problem for me tho'). BOV wise , I can call past after work on the way home or this evening after dinner?

I took the volvo out last nite to go to the shops and as bad luck would have it my secondaries (the big barrels on the carb) decided to clog up just before a white R33 tried to have a go with me. I might as well have raced a datsun 120Y I still would have lost, the car was coughing and spluttering so much. Up till then that evening it was running mint. I'll have to wait to fix the secondaries as the wife doesn't want me taking the car off the road for a while.

shuto-boy, Nope. I have to sort out a leak , thanks to the last time I used it. I had the intercooler pipe blow off and the thing is leaking somewhere under boost (suspect the BOV). Cam said he'd lend me one I just need to get around there. I also need a range cooler plugs for the bigger setup, so in a week or two it should be action stations again.

hello.

Where my brother works is worth a buz. Rob77 has had some work done by his workshop, PM him for more info that way you can remove some of my bias

The BOV I suspect because the leak occurs under boost only and has not got any worse. It could be a small split in a hose that opens up under boost too, but I think the BOV might be the first port of call (easiest to check). I think I missed the cruise this morning, I was up till 3am last nite working out the family finances for a tax evaluation

no mine has a nitrous kit, my switch activates the nitrous when armed, all 100rwhp of it

craz0, the auto can be rebuilt stronger , with a high stall too perhaps. Wait till it blows up. The Wolf 3d can be used on an auto I believe.

na it's a bit more than that now. Like about 100 extra at the tyres

Kind of like driving around with a cardboard cutout. (jokes) No the silvia isn't a 'poo barge' .

there are no leaks in the pipework, hence no vacume loss. I've since reassembled all the pipes.

Should produce a whole new range of 'experts' then that magazine issue. Did they at least mention the lightweight flywheel and front pulleys?