rev210

What do you know the same plug and gap as me! BCPR7ES-11's gapped to 0.9mm. I still haven't fully tuned the plug side yet. The Rule of thumb for NGK plugs I use and many others. PART 1. 5's for 5,000rpm 6's for 6,000rpm 7's for 7,000rpm 8's for 8,000rpm 9's for 9,000rpm (Where the rpm is the peak horsepower range of the engine or the peak rpms most commonly used). PART 2. Aim for a generous gap when aiming for good peak power. 6's may work at 8,000rpm (If this is where your peak power ought to be) if you close the gap enough. They certainly won't work as well as 8's with a decent gap. The trade off being that 8's won't tollerate around town driving as well unless you give it 8,000rpm around every corner. It's a basic rule of thumb and not perfect. For those interested on my opinion of the platinum and iridium plugs; both are better than copper. Only in reliable spark and not in power production (not enough to notice). Get the plug setup wrong and you have to turf them anyway... better a cheap ass copper set than expensive iridiums. my 2c

badman, good to see you have an interest. Helps to start young. If you decide you would like to own a jap performance vehicle may I suggest you go and invest in some advanced driver training and then perhaps some motorsport based training as well. This should keep in check the urge you will find compelling you to smash into telephone poles at high speed once you get behind the wheel. We would like you to be a 'long term' forum guest after all

JimX, JGTC, does not provide a real insight into the 'true' car. I mean none of those things are even remotely like the road going versions. Talking as you drive on the Australian road, the RX7 is more than a match. 18th isn't a bad result for the 1.3 litre chooker.

Robbo, On the topic of the Zoom mag review of intercoolers or most things: You know a statistically valid test involves a sample of 30 or greater. They show a 7psi drop. I see a 2psi drop on mine. At the end of the day what does it all mean? A larger or even overly large FMIC will yeild a greater peak power than the stocker. However the time it takes for the same air volume to travel throught the FMIC is longer than the stock unit. Flow time is an enemy as much as lower horsepower flow is. If you want to run a low 13 the standard intercooler does not present a problem.

If it is an automatic you drive then the S-AFC II. If you have a tuner around who will do the emanage and you have a manual then the e-manage.

If I was offered a FMIC I'd take it. Then I would sell it. And have some underdrive lightweight pulleys made for the engine, perhaps also install an automatic gtst's diff center with the 4.3 gears and buy some decent wide tyres for the back with the money from the sale. I am pleasantly suprised to beat the pants off all the poor people who got oversized frount mount intercoolers for their stock turbo'd cars (BoostD is the exception to the rule). So in the pleasantly suprised stakes I'm already pleasantly suprised at how little money I've spent.

i goto bed now. nite people ,smurfs and smurf wannbe's like me and Niz.

I have been absent from my gym for almost a week, as per usual. I am not looking forward to going back as I must face.......the leg press! Noooooo! I hate doing my legs and I hate doing my triceps, I don't like excersise, not in a box not in a car not in a cave not with a nun not with a gun!

Hi the Niz. I think the Surfs and Rock go well together too. All kinds of rock, from cocaine to granite.

What ever happened to Gargamel ? You know the guy who had the cat and hated the Smurfs. I reckon I saw him the other day, works as a Jims mowing contractor.

top end is improved, spool is a little quicker.

cams will help a tiny bit. Increase the capacity to 2.4L with the stoker kit availible from JUN and others. Put an RB30 bottom end on the motor will be much cheaper.

Boostd's got a confirmed RB25DET stocker turbo and 12.9 seconds. Whale's win !!! YAYYYYY!

You will need 'two' wastegates btw. If the wastegate's a factory one it isn't going to cope by itself.

the stock RB20 turbos are a tad larger than the factory gtr ones and will come on boost and make full boost at approximately a tad over double the rpm they would as a single (probably add another 500rpm or so). So thats about 5500-6000rpm?

The RX7 is a serious proposition. It can challenge the R33 GTR on both strip and track. The two cars have very different driving characteristics and styles. For very little the RX7 is put into low 12's on the 1/4 and factory stock is superior to the GTR as a track car with reasonable endurance. In the first bathurst production series (93/94?) the RX7 raced the R32 GTR I believe and the 'others' and beat them. It went on to dominate for the next few years in that particular area.

I have a S-afc II, because it was cheap (about $500). The unichip is very ordinary. I wouldn't use it. If all you would like to do is alter the present AF ratio for better power then the S-AFC is a $600 tuned proposition. It has a replay and knock level feature and is very user friendly. The basic emanage is of similar price and offers further development oppertunities with a slightly better power outlook.

the drags are on sundays around noon I think, $30 longsleave shirt and a helmet. Oh and it can't be raining.

shame you have to get a pod at all. I reckon the good ol K&N panel element can't be beat for value. Keeps the cops off your back and won't stop you making excellent power.

BOOSTD, can you post a picture of it?(turbo)

Steve, No offence taken, I've just been a bit of a cranky old bastard due to lack of sleep . The before and after dyno readings, what did they do to gain extra power?

the limited edition looks crap. I had the option when buying mine to get one for the same price. The screen looks like something out of the old Micro-bee computer screen age (that almost swayed me tho').

Steve. Yep I'm officially a 'lost cause'. I think because I've stupidly done everything myself for too long, I should have stopped at rebuilding 13B's but, no I had to keep on making life hard for myself. In the process I became able to tune things without using a dyno and do a better job than those that did on some occasions. My best comeback is this.... For every 1 person like me there are at least 100 others who use the dyno , think the figures important, spend 5 times as much money for the same 'real' power and have their ass kicked by the that same 1 person. 13.3 so far buddy. Do you belong to the 100?

Stubborn on this one, for sure mate. If its a guide , I don't have a copy. If what your saying about it being a guide is true would you care to post 'the guide' so we can see how good it is. The fact is I'm not in my right mind and I have no knowledge. I think if you look at the facts, there is no 'guide' to be found in peoples miss mash of dyno readouts. The only guide built in is whether a given mod will or will not improve power, relative to that day and car's readings before and after. The magnitude of the gain and the total amount of power quoted is moot.

You know the problem with this example is it doesn't tell you how well the power is put down or stopped (in whatever line honour race type you are thinking of).I'd put my money down on line honours for the car with the best allround racing solution, of which a dyno reading is just 'talk' when it comes to real racing. the dyno in no way represents the actual flow of air over the car at speed (when all this power is being used) as such it is always 'just the begining' for setting up an engine tune for racing.Far more time is spent on real track tuning than in a booth. I would like to say that anyone who buys a car off a dyno reading is seriously lacking in common sense. What really makes you decide on one car or another is how it drives. Historically I seen so many wheel-dyno printouts that are dubious when compared to the cars actual go factor, that I simply don't place alot of weight in them. I am talking about me actually driving them not, slow due to driver etc. Not to mention the masses of #@$% idiots who have dyno printous and flash them around with comments like " you car does low 13's and my car has 100rwhp more than you so I'd do 11's". I mean even on this forum there is no concensus on what realwheel figure will give you this or that actual performance (it's all meaningless babble). When a Dyno reading is used to 'talk' up a cars performance or lack of it --- --- we know talk is cheap. Lets see if it goes because a fool and his money are easily parted (see refference to 'most performance tuners'). Enough of this. I'll agree to disagree with you. For the rest: A car is quick because its quick and not because a of a stationary dyno reading.