rev210

boosted has stock RB25 block. He's run 1.1bar through that turbo.

I like that plan!

Joel, I don't think I said dyno reading are meaningless. They aren't because they are used as a tuning tool. Hence it might mean something to say ' Before I put on the spam ham hat my car had 120kw and on the same day after I put it on we got 140kw'. It might therefore be worth exploring the spam ham hat as a mod to improve power. It's pretty meaningless to quote them to others on the other side of the country as a one off.

There are a few who who have been a hoon for many years. There is some good information on the forum.

I wish I had 255 tyres

drivers side. on the guard facing the plenum, just follow the fuel lines

joel, had the car on the dyno. to examine 'tuning' (what a dyno is for). The result of which was to see a ping irrespective of afr and timing occur at 4500rpm onwards. Hence the figure (that means little) or 230rwhp or so at 4500rpm. MRK25T, if you are happy with the way your car drives now for the $$ spent you really don't have a problem. Steve, You misunderstand me. I am trying to point out that everyone has their car for a purpose or something they enjoy doing with it. Be that the 1/4 mile as I'm on occasion enjoying or the track or just plain driving around the street. I often talk about the 1/4 mile when the individuals are interested in pursuing this as a past time. What people lack here is an understanding of what the dyno is properly used for and what it should not be used for. The dyno is a good tuning tool, nothing else. I can tell you that it means a hell of a lot more to me that my car is going quicker or driving nicer after a few $$ spent on a mod than whether I can see a gain on a dyno. The fact is you don't need a dyno at all to apreciate well spent $$$ on a mod. And so far I've never used a dyno to 'back up' my mod path, I use the seat of my pants and the occasional 1/4 time improvement (a personal goal). My example is to make you think. On the one hand I hear all these people say(all the time) " oh thats much too low a figure for your mods, your tuner must be crap" or " I've got 200rwkw and I've got less mods than you therefore you must have a serious tuning issue". You know things like temperature affect power figures I'm sure. Did you also know that altitude and pressure, humidity and polutants also have a great bearing on power? Perhaps you do but, I can see that most have no idea. On the polutant side even the design and wind direction in a dyno enclosure will have bearing on power generation. The dyno is a tool. So I think if we stop telling people to compare their readings people will not continue to be dissapointed and ultimately misled. In most cases I can jump in anyones car before and after a mod and tell you straight whether you pissed your money up against the wall, cost you a sixpack ($10) Vs $90 for a dyno power run. Something I'm not as good as a dyno at is fine tuning fuel and timing for incremental (and relative) power adjustment.

Although there is a minor gain in throttle response with multiple throttle bodies, as they wear (the shaft bushing) or when they get out of alignment, they totally suck to re-align and I'd rather chew my own leg off than piss fart around with that.

yes I remember getting one airborne in Kalgoorlie on those big dipper intersections they have. Nothing like the sound of sump on bluemetal. What raw power! Av a lon drive and you'll want to do burn outs till the auto dies.

chasers run 14's on a real drag strip, are no quicker in that regard than a skyline. A friend of mine's family yard has had the RAW's certification done for the chaser/MK2 recently , it passed the side impact tests with flying colours. What an expense that RAWs thing is! He had to send a Stagea over to get side impact tested (they basically wreck it) and if it passes then its got to do emissions tests and things as well. For every car that gets the Aussi tick one poor car has been sacrificed.

T0nyGTSt, peak power improvement isn't going to be awe inspiring on the factory turbo (maybe 5-10hp?). I mean that turbo isn't going to make 300hp at the motor with your car daniel given the kms the motor and turbo have already covered. Engine response is improved for those with 'front mounts' and as such so is accelleration. Thats all I'd care about. then again are you trying to win a Dyno queen award with this car daniel?

14psi if it means the same power and rev. the more pressure the hotter things get quite often. otherwise you have just asked 'how long is a piece of string?"

daniel, Ask Paul (gtst-vspec) about his. One word of advise from me is don't go any bigger in throttle body diameter than your stock one unless you plan on a 600+HP turbo. Very good plenum the trust unit. As far as I'm aware the factory rail and injectors fit in.

paydro, the kit cost me $400 out of the local trading post. Normally around $1400. The car will run a high 12 without the Nitrous. Tyres permitting a low 12 with the switch flicked. after I set it up on 50hp a 100hp jet goes in and 11's are on.

as something of interest for those who incorrectly try to compare dyno's to determine performance. I ran 13.3@106mph with a 2.3 60ft, with an effective power band of around 4500rpm. Straight after I had it on the dyno ,not to look at my 'power' but rather determine a problem and it showed 230rwhp odd at 4500rpm. To tell the truth I doubt very much that I was at the time making too much more than that at the flywheel in total. The very strong torque band I had tuned into the car enabled the time. so there you go. I had a whole 230rwhp(not that it matters) and did a 13.3. Perhaps people telling you that 250rwhp is too low should start addressing my quite obviously slow 1/4 time as well?

MRK25T, I'm not serious about the rebuild as an option, costs a fair bit. I'm trying to point out to others that engine wear takes it's share of the base power over time. Seriously don't worry about the dyno stuff mate. The track performance is what matters. A stock R33 turbo line can only expect about 300hp at the flywheel if it's lucky and with a brand new engine. I've had a few people suggest that their 200rwkw means 350HP at the flywheel or so, they are ill informed. None of them have 1/4 mile evidence of this power either. right now I reckon I'm under 300HP at the motor, best condition of tune it's ever had and alot quicker than any other stock R33 turbo line I've ever come across or driven. My engine has over 100,000kms on it. So use that dyno you go to and as long as the tune your doing on it works out a little extra each time then you can be happy. You might find that high flow turbo you got needs over 1 bar to work well also (verify this with the turbo builder). For instance the HKS units are generally rated at 1bar and go a little higher.

The range of Z200,201 and 202 all will work except that the shape may not fit the little filter holder thing'o. Get the one to suit the turbo 911 maybe? could flow a little more. It's a theory probably not a good one.

Well you may have at least got some sort of 'stock' nissan turbo even if it isn't the GTST one. Give's me another go at the 12 second barrier

adam, you can always get a 'proper' performance filter, $100 worth plus adapter fittings. K&N make a washable High flow fuel filter, last time I saw one was at performance unlimited in welshpool.There are other brands of high flow efi filter as well btw. The line size is a little bigger than the stock fuel hose (easy to get a brass adaptor from odin auto's anyway). Also, when you change the filter you may find part of the fuelhose will crack around the neck of the old filter on either side, so having a little length of efi fuel hose handy will save you some big hassles if you end up short.

Z201 will work.

I don't do much 'working out' . The actual time I'm moving weights and excercise per week is a grand total of 3min of weights and 20mins of cardio (per week). I need to cut back on beer and stuff. power to wieght ratio and all that

I need to go get my late lunch junk food fix. My legs don't want to work anymore, I neither do I. I need some fries .

friday lunches. we do one of those almost every month we a bunch of us reps and we invite a client or two (write off to the company). Always a messy one, with a long kick on usually to a club or bar.

I got the 95ecu. I definately need the S-AFC. Why don't you rebuild your engine. It's probably down 50hp or so from being worn. Most people don't take into account that their base engine is going to be a fair whack down on power after 100,000kms so mods to it is like playing 'catch up'.

I say take the bathurst title off them.