rev210

exhaust cam gear + S-afc, thermal wrap the dump pipe + BCPR7ES-11 plugs with 0.9mm gap. Add a good clutch and a light flywheel for something that will get you close to a 12second 1/4mile on the factory turbo at about 10-12psi,will get your present 230hp on that dyno at less than 4500rpm (think BIG torque gains).

R is for resistor plug, Shouldn't be an issue for you tho. I've run the R's and they work fine, I am running BCPR7ES-11's with a 0.95mm gap.

Use a 'blunt' socket exension and hammer the thing around to get it off and do the same to put it back on. It's a very easy process and the pump install took me an hour.

car is not a pig. Drive nice, like stock. The addition of only the flywheel dropped my 1/4 mile by 0.4sec to 13.4 (real dragstrip ).

$650 AUS for an Ogura chrome molly 4.8kg (factory around 10kg)

GFB don't make one because they can't be assed. 'V' configuration engines suffer greatly from harmonic imbalances, and yet they make a pulley for the VG30? I corresponded with them quite a while back and it was just a case of not seeing a market. If you commit to 500 peices they will take your money right now and start making them without the ' prevent failure' crap. I would like to know if the front pulley on the RB26 is the same because Trust seem to produce a fully pulley kit.

I'd really like one because they do make a very big difference.

the missfire is almost never going to be the stock coolers fault. Not unless you are running an enourmous turbo.

joel, I was pretty sure the 5 and 6 thing was an RB26 issue not an RB25 one. Different plenum design.

go to jaycar or altronics and buy an ultrasonic cleaner, even better than a foot spa. You need to ultrasonic clean injectors otherwise you are not going to do a very good job.

cylinders lean out because the injectors are blocked. It's often 1 and 2 or 3 and 4 as much as 5 and 6. The factory plenum distributes air quite well to all cylinders but, after 100,000kms the injectors naturally enough need to come out for a clean. On my car we had a ping at 4500rpm that did not show in the afr's (it was in the 9's). On consideration I believed it to be a single blocked injector and it turns out it was! Imagine that. You have ultra rich afr's and all of a sudden you kill a piston. I cleaned my injector No.1 with a foot spa and toluene, now it's all good.

The panel is secured by a number of screws. Only the forward facing section need be removed and is easy to replace if needed. You will find as I have that no foriegn matter flicks up into the cooler at all, I have had mine removed for almost 3 years and no damage what so ever (including a few trips on open gravel roads). On the dyno people: why bother telling you that it was hot? Even big coolers can get hot dyno tuning, especially around the intake part, you'd have to be a idiot to touch it or even want to.They probably just wanted to sell you their own intercooler kit. In terms of getting the top part more air, you could fashion a 'channel' to direct air towards the top from the 'open' bottom half.

quite a few cars past rego tests in the 9 second club. most are chookers. box wise, piss off the weak little 6 speed and get a jericho. who needs 6 gears for a drag car???

JiMiH, I think your confusing the shift kit with something like the B&M 'shifter'. I have a B&M mega shifter in the volvo, it's a ratchet shifter for fast changes, however the trans being stock had other ideas about how quick it would change between gears. The Shift kit is just a mod to the valve body to allow minimal slipage on gear selection. The most extreme case is banging into every gear, great for the strip but hell on the kids in the baby seats. You can have the change set to something inbetween.

The 225's would be good but, as mentioned I'm a bit cheap. It's my work vehicle so I've even bought the cheapest 205 tyre brand I could find . If the 205's defeat me I'm not going to be too cut about it, I still have a mph to look over and pass to the new owner of the car. I'll change the rears if I have to do 12's to sell the car and the 205's stop me.

only got a 50 shot so I reckon you'd be safe

geez mate with that turbo you'd want to be in front even if I'm using the nitrous.

lauren, to get more power is the same as a manual. Having said that you get slightly less power at the wheels with an auto as it chews a bit more power out of the driveline. One of the good things a bout an auto is the fact that you can whack a high stall in them. Bad for your fuel economy but great for a mean launch. Most auto places can rebuild the torque converter in smaller diameter to increase the stall speed. Modified stock converters can yeild an extra 800rpm or so, whilst a custom unit can be set anywhere you like. I'm not sure what the auto's are like valve body wise but a good auto rebuilder can usually sharpen up the 1st to 2nd shift with a bit of a fiddle. Nothing like 'banging' into each gear and chirping the wheels. On the stock turbo I'd say a 2800rpm stall would work very well. It would wipe alot of smiles off the manual boys faces very quickly. I'm getting the volvo's turbo350 box rebuilt on wednesday with a mild stall and a valve body mod, I'll ask if they have done any jap stuff if you like.

don't block the bov.

Finally finished the nitrous install today. Had left it since I was over east for work but, wired it up today. Next is the bottle fill for the strip based fun. I have tuned the car nicely since solving the ping issue and hopefully next outing to the strip will see a sub 13 without gas and a low 12 with it, then again if I'm using the 205's maybe not My realistic aim is to improve the mph with the 205's on as launching off them is tricky.

AI, It is like a piggy back but, different. The wire in is easy and the injector harness ect. is dead simple. Tuning resolution wise it has enough load points and then some for street use. No mods required to adapt to car. It has a few more features than the pfc when coupled with the E-01. The emanage system has been used very successfuly on many a very fast vehicle. Having said that there are a few areas where Trust have had to re-develop. One area is the automatic trans nissans.

adam, don't need a timing light if you make a few marks on the CAS. Simply retard and advance in small increments off the mark. You can tap the cas into place or just un-do the bolts till the CAS rotates freely. Some tuners don't reccomend tapping the CAS but, will help you to lighten the load in your wallet alot better than the tuners that practice this habit occasionally:D

to get the injectors out you only need to undo 2 screws and gently and evenly pull/lever them out. The two screw hold a little metal 'hat' ontop of the injector body. I made a phillips head wrench using a ring spanner, epoxy putty and a phillips head bit. This saved me from removing the top half of the plenum. It's a tricky job but, like everything do-able.

you can run 25-30% for best results.

it's ok.