rev210

iijj, The reset won't do anything, do it if you like. Tuning wise; I guess I put the 'graph mode' on and use rev's Vs knock. I take a refference on the log and look at the peak values on the other screen. Take away fuel, take away timing, add fuel add timing. If the car is pretty stock the afr can be pegged back in the top end on high throttle and on low throttle in the low/mid range I've added a bit of fuel to improve throttle response.

there is no such thing as 'boost cut', it's airflow sensed fuel cut. And yes it gets removed. You don't want to run 13psi with a stock turbo either. I have tuned my S-afc 2 without a dyno.

joel, It would work well, just a little high on cost. Most ceramic coatings do not trap 100% of the heat or anywhere near it. Those that are close to this mark cost alot of money.

guilt toy, removes the 'fuel cut'. Boost cut is only present with the factory boost solenoid. The S-afc has a +50% correction availible for more fuel and can accept Z32 AFM. So still able enough for a mild hi-flow turbo. I have a S-afc 2, my power figures are good.

greg, heat wrap works just as well. The water condensation on the inside is unavoidable and normal. Try blowing up a piston ring and then the inside of the pipe will have a water resistant oil coating

neoGT-25, Is the avitar you got mean that you are 'for' a communist state and interacial hardcore?

Zensoku, Maybe you can offer the rice boy's a NOS sticker up front and say things like ' with this $200 sticker you won't even need the kit! ' Nothing like time-wasters to ruin it for the rest of the genuine customers like myself. I'm almost dreading the next call to my local bottle filler cause I know there's bound to be a bunch of fnf idiot-wanna-be's hanging around. I wish I had a Ozrace kit then I could just go to BOC for a refill.

toda can be purchased ex jap new for around $220 each. You pay $600 odd when you purchase through the australian sales channel. Until the local peformance parts retailers organise themselves properly and setup distribution channels just buy overseas, it's cheaper and quite often faster.

Yes, I've lost count of the number of plenums I've heard of going 'pop' from nitrous use. Also imagine what would happen when the car finally rolled to a stop.. why at least 500 porcupines would then drag the owner and his friend from the car and beat them senseless. Because as we all know this is what happens when you use too much NOS. Just like parts of the floor falling off really isn't it, you know -- the excess NOS finds it's way to the seam welds and unwelds them. Zensoku, You should put little NOS stickers on the horn buttons and charge twice as much for the steering wheels I reckon.

The 13.4second thread and the project 12second... threads start with some ideas that will come under your budget given you have a full exhaust. The intercooler change is good when you intend a larger turbo and all the rest of the expense that goes along with it. That alone will eat up all your funds. A light flywheel and strong clutch (if it's a stocker) are good little budget mods.

the diff, gearbox and engine oil should be changed and then regularly changed after that. People neglect the frequent changing of gearbox and diff oil and it's a basic.

'coloured flames out the exhaust' -- yet another reason to love the realisim. xRHETTx, I reckon they added more chemicals in their nose than the exhaust and that is saying something. 2Slow---2Stupid.

the cars have 'stupid nerd factor', I get tired of explaining nitrous oxide to people after they watch fnf.nothing like fnf to provide tuners with an endless source of people to laugh at and make money from when they ask for things they saw on fnf.

51jay, I wouldn't try using that foam stuff on your exhaust pipe. I bought some of that stuff from clark rubber for other pipes.

10psi does just fine with the standard turbo. Most people running mid to low 13's use 10psi with the stock turbo, why push it further all you do is create more heat than power and shorten it's life. Steve, Last time I tested boost before and after the stock intercooler there was a 2psi or less drop even at 12psi.

gtst, easy again: YES

gtst, easy answer : NO

Duncan, Good point. Assuming you are already a good driver / have done a course or two then to improve accelleration -- 1st mod ought to be the flywheel & clutch before PFC and that before the fmic.

I think for refference we should have the time slips posted so people can veiw the hard evidence for standardish performance. It helps to show newbies a quick way to good times without any 'bull' (as they will likely get from their mates and some performance shops).

I ran that sort of time with as few mods, my mph was 101 but my 60ft was 2.1. This is what you can expect from a stockish skyline, as I think there are a few others now with the same results. It also shows how 10psi is actually a good boost level for the stock turbo'd engine.

The price varies for coatings. The most insulative coating is very expensive. Simply ask whether you can hold the dump pipe with your hand when its on the dyno pulling a full power/boost run. If the answer is 'yep, you can feel nothing' then the coating is the good one, if not don't bother wasting your money.

No not necassarily. I know of people with 12 second readings who can only do low 14's. The accuracy varies, on the whole it is not comparable at all to the real 1/4mile. For the modifications you have I see a 13 second flat or a low 12 comming all things being right on the night (they seldom are). Go race and find out.

the 'Hybrid' boost controller is $340. Hikari and others sell them.

SX? screw that! Go barry grant for 1000hp fuel pumps.

I'd argue my time would drop 2 tenths with a good ebc over what I have atm. They are less than $400 to buy.