rev210

did it with the parts still on. Bit tricky but patience is rewarded (with a sore back and RSI)

the highflow will help and so will the low ratio diff. Maybe 13 flat like you said if you can leave the line quick enough.

bleeder systems don't stack up very well against electronic boost control. The boost is quicker to build and more stable on the ebc. I would love to turf the turbosmart bleeder valve.

the S-afc II does do the Z32. Says so in the jap instructions, quite easy.

I can wait forever for FnF2 , it sucks all things that are not nice at all. I'd like to get some street cred and smack the producers over the head with a 40lb bottle of nausssssssss.

I got 1 point left.

Hmm.. Being a FnF freak I'm just waiting to paint my car orange and pink with lots of neons and graphics. Actually I'd like to hit the producers in the head with a 40lb full bottle o' NOS to get some street cred.

benm, Not over 175rwkw? I got that at just 4500rpm with afr in the 9's and no PFC or frontmount. you want to get the front mount just before a turbo upgrade. The PFC is better bang for buck. Come to think of it, a light flywheel is better bang for buck in terms of accelleration than either. You can fit a stronger clutch while your at it. The intercooler upgrade is worthwhile once you have exhausted the cheaper mods. I've spent a bit over $2.5k and I should get into 12's pretty easy now.

matt, I can't adjust my timing per rpm point. I can only set 'base timing' like all stock cars. I have no idea what it really is. A re-graph of timing is a great idea if you have an aftermarket ecu, lots of engine response to be gained. the 13.44 is a good time. I wish I had 255's like you instead of the 205's, my last run down the 1/4 got me a 13.3 and a wheelspin fest launch of 2.3. I don't know if I'll get down past the 12 barrier with the 205's .

nothing against thermal coating, heat wrap done right works just as well. It's cheaper, easy and doesn't see your car off the road. The rumours about thermal tape is basically due to people who don't install it properly. I have done this to many a car and the only issue I ever had was on cheap mild steel and I had not followed the instructions (first effort). Other than the one bad experience I have had trouble free operation on several installs over many years. Instructions: * clean surface * spray with ceramic based exhaust paint (VHT flameproof mat white) * Cure the paint as per instructions * Wrap pipe 'evenly' (very important -- and why DEI is great stuff). Most ceramic coating I have encountered is less effective than heat wrap. I can put my hand on the dump pipe , when it's probably glowing red with heat wrap. Most coating doesn't trap this much heat. The stuff that does isn't cheap.

100HP will consume about 1lb of gas every 10seconds. A 10lb bottle will last 100seconds. 50HP will last 200seconds 200HP will last 50seconds. so at around $100 it costs $10 a 1/4mile blast of 100hp

I think on the 'slow times' you may have launched with less revs but, still hit the full throttle too early and instead of spinning the tyres you 'bog down'. The idea at the strip is to launch like a fast trafic light launch. It's not full throttle till you hit the end of the lights on the otherside. You can still travel pretty quick with 3/4 throttle.

revolution race gear has dei brand. The other brands are ok too. The best setup is the thermotec turbo kit, comes with the turbo blanket. I use the dei stuff because wrapping the pipe evenly is very important and that brand has little markers on the tape, makes it easy.

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INASNT, I'll take you up on the offer. You need to find a private road perhaps and play around with the launches to get it right. I'd give a 2000rpm hill start kind of launch a go because it sounds like most people (myself included) get a little exited and floor the acellerator too early.The accelerator needs to be 'fed'.It's not much of a skill at all, you'll see what I mean when you get it right.

Tyres are fine, It will be happening in a week or two. I haven't got the bottle gassed up yet and I have still got to finish the wiring (might do wiring today).

*'T' peice off the main fuel line, to the provided fuel pressure reg,into the fuel solenoid. * Run nitrous line from boot to nitrous solenoid. *tap nozzle into intake pipe. * attach braided hose to nozzle from solenoids. * setup the switches Thats it pretty much.

joel, No you don't need injectors or an ECU with a 'wet' system like mine. It has it's own fuel supply. The only upgrade required on a stock skyline is the fuel pump (mine was pretty close to running out of huff anyway). With an upgraded fuel pump its a 'bolt on'.

Well of course we can now get into the 'what I do on the street is legal' arguments. I can only assume that the bigger turbo and ecu you enjoyed using 'this morning 6 times' was done so below the legal speed limit? Sure it was For starters lets forget about using the power of a bigger turbo on the street, we don't want to encourage others to do illegal things Mr Pot, I Mr kettle certainly can not condone it. Of course on the circuit the whole nos thing is moot, it's not allowed and it's not all that practical. Then again there was an infamous NASCAR series where a certain team used a 'cheater' system hidden in the chassis. For 'you' the value is average, you like the circuit race thing. For me and others with my pattern of use it's far better value. Shall we agree?

Zdenko, If you know how much power the standard internals can take then don't exceed this level. Nitrous is NO DIFFERENT to any other power increase. Eg. Engine power limit = 500HP Present power = 400HP Maximum increase allowable = 100HP That means an upgraded turbo can be upto 100HP better than the present one. OR 100HP shot of nos. If you go higher than 100HP then the internals are at risk. The most common mistake with nos is people exceed the limits of the engine, just like people exceed the limits of boost on a stock skyline turbo. If you have understanding and common sense you are safe as houses. Go to www.ozrace.com and check out the FAQ section on nitrous.

paul, I know someone who is selling a direct port, efi setup. Find out how much for you? Also NOS has a new Noszil system. It basically goes in as a new 'seat' for the factory injectors. The seat contains the fuel and nitrous feed and is absolutely fantastic for atomisation/spray and perfect distribution per cylinder. It also makes install a walk in the park, with no tap and die set required.

You might like to look at my post about how much Nitrous costs to use for me over 3 years at the drag strip. Basically it's a cheap way to get your thrills, up to a point. I'm certainly not against achieving higher horsepower without nos btw. At the end of the day what we all love is g-forces. You may not understand the reality of nitrous use if you believe all I get out of it is 10seconds. The bottle will at this stage last me at least 200seconds. Now unlike yourself I'm not really advocating street racing nitrous or not. Irrespective of whether you have nitrous or not the power to weight is what counts and how well your car is setup suspension and brakes wise to handle that power. I'd like you to experience a nitrous equiped vehicle, if I have the oppertunity I'll give you a go of mine. I'm quite sure it will change your mind. Having said that it's fair enough not to need it when you are having a hell of a time controlling a car with 600rwhp, theres plenty of power to keep you happy (but never satisfied). At the end of the day 'to each his own'. Opinions matter when it comes to your pride and joy so if you don't think much of nos, correctly informed or not don't get any.

The nature of the combustion, in heat and pressure is much the same as any horspower increase of the same magnitude. Be it can be made to occur at any given rev, very bad thing to do at idle

you use 1lb of nitrous for every 100HP per 10sec. or 2lb / 200HP /10sec. etc..

sydneykid, Thanks for checking it out. I don't think we misunderstood each other about the 'armed' in your car part, just the illegal everywhere tone. Illegal to use on the street yes. But we all enjoy using it on the drag strip where its intended to be used and certainly sanctioned. Whether you can transport it around in your everyday car is the point most argued. And fair enough too. I think you might like to look at the FAQ section of the site as well, re the amount of nitrous and the horsepower example you are exploring for instance. Basically the engine in question will have a horsepower threshold, which if you exceed either by nitrous or large turbo bad things will happen. In the case of the nitrous it can be a better ecconomy of wear due to the revs being a fair bit lower for the same power, provided the engine in question can handle that power (turbo or otherwise) to begin with. For someone like me who frequents the drag strip on the odd occasion nitrous oxide is the least expensive path to some lovely g-forces, without any of the cons attached with larger turbos. At 50HP my 10lb bottle will give about 200seconds of use. Thats about 20 runs at $5 per run. At 100HP that makes it $10 per run. If I do 20 passes in a year that means I've spent $200 in gas for each 100HP run, plus $400 for the kit. For 3 years of 1/4mile fun it costs me $1000. OR Turbo upgrade costs over $2k and I need an new ecu (say $1200 after I trade in my S-afc) and larger injectors and rail ($800) and a fmic $1500, maybe a new dump pipe. I still do 20 runs a year In three years It cost me $5500 to do the same sort of times. $5500 Vs $1000 over three years. OR put it this way : $91 per 1/4 run or $16 per 1/4 run on nitrous. Ah but wait you say what about driving on the street? Well I don't intend to do my speeding in the suburbs I save it for the proper track. For those who want to race through the suburbs I sugest that the stock turbo is more than enough to get you in trouble. If you want a circuit-track racer, then nitrous is not up your alley so don't get it. Easy