rev210

hello.

The nitrous is 'old hat' for me. If anyone decides to buy a kit then the instructions provided are better than any I could give you, though I don't mind answering questions.the kit I got has no instructions as it's a second hand one.

Got my mit's on a NOS EFI kit (wet). Just the thing to go with my 600HP fuel pump I thought. All I need to do is fit it (a couple of hrs) and fill the bottle. I'll set it up with a 50HP jet and get it sorted nicely so the person who buys my car can drop a 100HP jet straight in and go pull 11's if they get some decent rear tyres.

paul, if you did not adjust the timing, all I can say is 'I'm not suprised'. Change the timing if you change the cam timing or go backwards in power.

the stock r34 coolers go for about $100 or a little over so they are a good little' torque increaser' over the factory r33. They are thicker and have far better designed end tanks.

the stock r33 unit hasn't prevented me from getting as much power as the factory turbo can produce. So far my power output matches or exceeds a fmic, stock turbo combination. You get to a point where the factory turbo just acts as a blockage anyway.

If the stock engine is tuned right 300kw will hang together quite well. The standard internals have ben known to handle this amount of power. Then again plenty of RB25's have let go at less than 200rwkw because of a crap tune or maintence.Also depends on what sort of life the engine has had and how many kms are already on it. Irrespective of what you do to the internals more power will accelerate wear, a 500HP engine needs rebuilding more than twice as often as a 250HP engine, and it doesn't matter if you have forged pistons and rods etc, the bearings and rings will always wear out. If I ever decided to build a 500HP engine I'd expect to rebuild it (bearings and rings etc) in 60,000kms or less to save me having to buy a whole new set of forgies and things.It's just what you do. It's quite true that 'you get what you pay for'.... ...It just that alot of people don't know they are paying to get F#cked

my little stock intercooler isn't the thing stopping me from running a 12second 1/4. my best of 13.3 was on a hot day. And I ran 13.4 on a stinking hot day.

sydneykid has done a few and he eluded to the need for a timing change in a semi-cryptic way when I asked him about the install process. Now I know what he was talking about.

you don't just 'check the timing' you 'change it'. when I put mine on I thought " damn I have wasted my money!" but, then I played with the base timing and got everything back and more. I found 4 degrees is best for top end and I settled on 3 deg as a compromise. The timing adjustment was as much as 10deg or so to make it work.

adam, If you don't have enough timing advance and don't run highish boost or revs then colder plugs will foul. 7's aren't all that cold, and with RB's the factory ecu like to run 14 AFR's at idle and low throttle so they should stay sort of clean. My 7's are only a little fouled at the moment thanks to me driving around with a blown ic hose, other than that they are fine.

somethings up with that then. The cam gear is a very basic principle to allow a later exhaust opening, should work on any standard cam profile. Maybe you have already got some aftermarket cams? Did the timing get re-jigged when the cam timing was changed? If not that is why things are going all negative on you. You can't change the one without the other.

I can't say that the map I used when going to the dyno was any evidence of a good tune. My afr's above 120kmh in 4th were super rich. I did mean to make them that way to minimise the ping issue. Otherwise the afr was around 12 which aint bad for a road tune. The dyno resulted in 230 something HP at 130kmh, whatever that is in rpm (I am guessing 4700rpm) before the ping comes in. I've got a 600HP fuel pump in now and things seem a little better coming onto the throttle than before too.

BTW does anyone know what 130kmh is rev wise in 4th?

paul, I reckon you would have reached the flow limits of the stock turbo, it'll just act as an airflow restrictor. Also the cam gear timing is affected by the base timing map. Sine your wolf has had the timing completely regraphed (I assume) you would need to re-adjust a little for the cam shaft timing adjustment. I think the later as the source of power droppage. Opening/shutting the exhaust valves a little later shouldn't hurt the power at all if you adjust the timing to suit. Don't do the timing and I'm sure the power will drop.

I'm in 4th gear by the end of the 1/4.

install can be done at home, mine took 2hrs max. so zero cost to install.

the ecu doesn't adjust the 'base timing' , that you need to do on the CAS (crank angle sensor) manually.

the new S-afc II is pretty cool, it will even allow you to run a Z32 afm.

good stuff mate. Thats what I've been talking about. More people would run 13's if they leave things pretty stock and work on launches and things. 255 tyres don't hurt either.

The problem is flow reading accuracy. The AFM is even more sensitive than a MAP based sensor system and has its benifits especially in low end fuel ecconomy. flow rates will not be percentage based BTW. they vary against more things than you can poke a stick at, most of them are logarithmic and not linea relationships.

same as the RB26 box internal wise.

I drove it the other day. goes alright, should be a little better now.

the afm is measuring (acurately) the airflow/change in airflow. The bypass itself will have it's own flow charateristics which the afm will not account for in it's reading, and not end up in fuel and or timing adjustments. On the cheap side, you can use the new Apexi S-afc II to run a Z32 AFM instead of going the whole hog ecu upgrade.

micko will be pleased.