rev210

when you say 'playing with the CAS' do you mean using a timing light? Get a timing light on the thing and see where it's at.

backfires? They have either really retarded the timing. or skiped a tooth on the timing belt. Try advancing the timing to see if things get a little better.Thats an easy one, quite possible they re-set the timing to what they thought was factory.

the timing is easy to check with a gun. Alternatively you can retard it in steps to see if you can eliminate the ping. If you have HKS cam gears they are dead easy to set back to the right level. cam timing on the exhaust ought to be retarded about 3-4 degrees for best top end. (thats two little marks worth max on the pulley).

raist60, I apreciate the comment about the strengthening of engine internals. From what I understand the 500HP engine (standard internals) is one that needs to be tuned and treated with a fair margin for error (though possible none the less). Certainly not going to be a high km engine whether or not you have forged internals. The more HP you build into the system the more frequent the rebuild (even if it's just a basic re-ring etc).

hey simon is it a work thing? Or have you gone NA on us? Say it aint so!

My AFR is no longer 9's beyond 4500rpm!!! Whoo hoo! I reckon I've got it pegged to about 11's (basically I've taken 20% odd worth of fuel out since) and fark it pulls like a bastard! Shame the water makes it ice skate everywhere makes tuning tricky.

The factory unit is good in its design. It could be improved by a tapered connection to the throttle body and a little more volume. Here is where you get swings and roundabouts. shorter, straighter path to plenum Vs more even distribution into the cylinder head. If you can have your cake and eat it thats fantastic. But I'd lean towards a better design of plenum giving you more power and torque benifits over shorter pipe work (within reason). There is substancial turbulence in the plenum and creating smoother and even airflow to each runner is as much art and luck as it is physics. Therefore substancial research would be required to get the plenum working 'plumb'. If there is clear evidence of development behind the plenum then its worth a shot, otherwise you are spending good money on a placebo. I've heard some very good things about the trust unit. The only problem people have is putting too big a throttle body on it for the flow of the turbo.

Aidwin, Got the bigger turbo yet to go with the ecu?

he's a frequent flyer (gold zip/silver button).

stock suspension is more than capable of handling the 250rwkw on the road. Because of course you would be a dick-emmery-head to try to drive through the suburbs with foot flat to the floor. Most of the time there is a poofteenth of the potential power going through my back tyres in the twisty suburbs because I don't fancy killing some kid on his bike as I come round the corner at 90kmh.

What???! Paul his biggest client? (no I'm not going there). (Instead) Does Adwin specialise in Dwarf/midgets?

I mean 500Hp @ mota of course.

speaking of people who own cars as fast as GTR's.. Hello everyone.

If all you want is straight power at the wheels.I don't know what 300rwkw is in engine power (why not just photoshop the dyno you have now). 500hp is reasonable for $4k or a little over. Based on a sleave bearing rebuild T4/3 (550HP) $1200, supra turbo (latest shape)or walbro fuel pump $200, 550cc Rx7 injectors & a rail to suit $800, Z32 afm $300 and maybe a PFC $1200 or even the S-afcII (yes they do the Z32 afm too) $500. You could also put aside $1500 and top it off with 100HP nitrous shot, then you only need about 400HP at the motor. The compormise on the turbo will see the thing spool at 4000rpm. Who cares! I wouldn't. I'd take any turbo that hits full boost at 5500rpm or lower as streetable since if your racing (any kind) the engine revs ought not to drop below 5500rpm anyhow.

I think maybe people missed your question (maybe I did tho'). If you are asking what turbo to buy with a 'final goal' of 300rwkw.

hi people, Had a drama with a turbo hose on the freeway yesterday. Bastard thing! The hose was also leaking before hand I can deduce as the boost has since gone from 11psi up to 15psi since I put it back on and tightened the hell out of it.

a 'knock engine' as used to test RON figures for fuels will set you back the best part of $200k if you want an 'accurate' figure for knock. I'd suggest that the factory ecu does not allow the engine to "knock like crazy" under any circumstance (given factory timing and appropriate fuel). If your engine is 'knocking like crazy' expect it to die pretty soon. The 'relative figure' as used by the factory ecu is good enough to tune with. Mine is fairly predictable and has served well as a tuning guide. The knock is best looked at on the graph trace Vs rpm and fuel correction. This way you can determine the relative 'stress point' of the engine's power band under load and adjust timing and fuel to suit. I can quite easily remove any knock by decrease to timing and increase to fuel, the problem is in finding the balance for power.

engine should be warm. Readings taken without any adjustment to the factory map.

paul, glad to hear the cam gear went well. I thought you guys would do it pretty easy. Didn't set the timing yet I hear mate? I guess if you head off to the dyno then you can try a few different settings. Good if you could post them afterwards. I found that my VVT cam gear thingo has been scrapping metal on the dust cover all this time due to a dent. I pulled it off and it seems to have made the car a little faster. Now I am a rice boy without the camgear cover

The knock sensor is handy. It learns the 0 point by the average of the two rpm ranges. The figures given are then taken as 'knock level' in the monitor section. If done right the level of knock will stay around 0 for idle and low throttle, as this has been zero'd. I have mine set such that I can use it in the 'graph mode' against rpm etc. I find that a knock level upwards of 70 will correspond to a very light ping that gets worse, upto 190+ for a substancial ping. Setting the fuel and timing to a level where a max of 20ish is reached at the peak is what I aim at.

hi people. Cleaned an injector on the weekend (using a footspa). Seems to have helped. Might do the others as well.

nolathane is actually a liquid and the torque instructions are to save you destroying the bushes. Having said that the reccomended setting is not tight enough for an R33. Rob, you have a socket/spanner set? If so just scoot under the back and side of the car and tighten the bolts yourself. The rule of thumb is: 'till you can tighten them anymore with a standard ring spanner'. 3min job at the most.

light flywheel and good clutch. pineapples. partition for the pod filter.

you start on a part of the track with no real 'stick'. With traction loss it can take 0.5sec or more to cover 1.6m without batting an eyelid.

shame its probably the sound of 'hot' air being sucked in to the engine. Ahhh the sweet sound of power loss