rev210

Most 'grey market' purchases fall through the customs net due to the fact that the invoice stuck to the outside of the parcell/shipment declares a low (far lower than actually paid ) purchase price. The actual price paid in the country of origin is impossible for our customs guys to get hold of .There is absolutely no recourse of action if it's done right and that is a problem for local industries of all kinds including the one I work in. The only way for local business to compete on this sort of price level is to have a dedicated 'wholesaler' (ie: not attached to a retail outlet) who can then apply pressure to negotiate price parity issues. I think that motor parts retailers probably need more government assistance to help educate them in this sort of business activity as most people running the show don't have a business background (usually a 'hoon' background --- a good thing too). It's good to support the local guys as best we can but, at the end of the day no one is running a charity. I for one would like to see the local guys have the abillity to 'match' the overseas suppliers. They can only do it if they have the support of government and parts distributors.

I have an FGK (Fujitsubo Giken) Super Ti and it's quieter than stock at some levels, really nice to cruise with, no 'boomy' exhaust rattle. The FGK stuff makes good power too for a quiet exhaust. It certainly hasn't stopped my relative stocker from getting closer to 12second 1/4miles

Update on the 'knock and ping'. When the engine is just warm enough the mystery ping doesn't appear. Once the car has reached it's maximum operating temp it appears. I even took a whole lot of fuel out of the 4000rpm to top end to give it a try and bingo a massive increase in power all the way to 6000+rpm. The fault also makes itself known at lower rpms when the accellerator is quickly stomped on. Usually the fuel map has a 'throttle pump' extra squirt of fuel when you do this. I was wondering if the cold start solenoid on the plenum is compensating for an injector that is partially blocked?

MrMayhem is right . gotta make it all stick. MrMayhem, flying brick? I own one of those too

might be my problem atm too.

I assume you want to go quicker not win a horsepower shoot out or mouth off about how much power is under your bonnet? If so the Light flywheel should feature high on the list.

save the money on the 'dyno' . Your timing may be a tad conservative. It is the most obvious starting point. other than that it doesnt sound like you have any 'problems' at all just a tuning issue.

I forgot to mention that the design is one that goes from 'hot' to 'cold' front to back and as that relates to high pressure to low pressure your home and hosed. Then again if you can trap all the heat in then a uniform diameter of 3 inches all the way is the shot.

The design of the exhaust is as tricky as you make it. The most forgotten dimension by exhaust upgraders is the 'thermal' one (and it relates directly to exhaust gas speed). At the start of the turbo exit the gases have incredible heat (and therefore speed and pressure) ,as the gasses travel back the speed of the gas reduces as its energy is lost to the pipe and radiated as heat. Here is where it gets hard. The cooler gases are best not put through overly large pipes as it can increase turbulence but, smaller pipes have a larger surface area to volume ratio to lose heat through! In practice I have found that the largest diameter should be at the start of the turbine outlet, any larger and you create unnecessary turbulence. Factory turbo --- 3inch from memory. Think 'match porting' at this stage. Next the cat needs to be as close to the turbo as is practical, better still lets forget you have one (they kill power). The first 3inch muffler needs to be nice and close to the dump pipe and filled with stainless packing (fibreglass will usually die and turn the muffler into a marracca) Exhaust places directing you to fibreglass mufflers will never place a muffler very close to the dump for this reason. The second muffler before the diff @ 2 1/2 inch and 2 1/4 over the diff into a slight megaphone shaped tail pipe that tappers gradually out to 4inches. Wrap the dump pipe to the first muffler or cat (which has been ceramic coated) in heat tape. If you have the money coat or wrap the entire exhaust. If you tell people to reduce exhaust pipe diameter as you go back on a street car exhaust , they look at you funny and think your a loon.No it's not about backpressure, it's about retaining a low pressure 'trail' all the way back to the tail pipe. Hi I'm certified !

the gearbox removal is easy. Putting it back in is very tricky without a hoist or some expertise on the gearbox fitment (r33 wise anyway).

in your driveway is a good place to fit the pineapples, its cheap too!

count to 3 after the light goes green.

you are right they are on tight. And they need to go back on tight too. I used a standard socket set and brute strength to get my bolts off, I hit my hand twice (very #%$*n hard) and can't reccomend this method, so go the rattle gun if you can get one.

before going out and buying intercoolers and things. Why doesn't he fix the problem? He would do better with an appropriate sized frount mounted intercooler tho. It's quite obviously a tuning issue. Fix this first, then start upgrades.

fit it yourself. If you can't do that (and it's too easy) get some easily influenced forum members to help.

correction his best run was with the exhaust 'on'.

he reckons it was running 14.7psi and straight out the turbo dump (ie: no exhaust)

dude you gotta post that slip for all to survey and be inspired by With a good launch you have the mph for a mid 12 there with a 1.9 60ft.

no it had a Greddy 28c job.

dude in S.A just ran a 12.9@111mph on stock R33 turbo. R32's back in your box

dude in S.A just ran a 12.9 @ 111mph on the R33 stock turbo! Go the whales!

111mph! what the! I think I'll get a 12.9 soon but, 111mph is damn fast and indicates alot of horsepower. Go the whales! I think that puts the R32 boys in their place, they need hiflows toget those sort of times What was the 60ft? (I'm guessing a 2.1)

Truck cores are generally not the best, there are better. If the end tanks are well shaped and the size of the final core is right it might be a better unit than stock that you end up with. But starting with an ordinary core design is a big handicap.

my plugs showed no signs of leanout, so it makes the problem even more wierd. It's possible still that one piston is running out of injector flow at the ping rpm. I've gapped the 7s down to 0.7mm now and will see if this helps any. I cleaned the intercooler, it had a reasonable although thin coating of blow-by oil in it. So that should help a little. When my back (now completely stuffed) has healed I will change the fuel filter and I'll think about the upper plenum removal so I can get at the injectors.

take out the ignition fuse