rev210

I don't even care if its a bloody 1/4mile,your favorite circuit race track or private road. Thats what I mean by how fast your car is. Time's, if you standardise the driver. Tell you whether the car owners a 'wally' for seting up the car wrong (for the thing he actually wanted to do) and whether he is full of bulldust about his power claim. Three ply, extra soft dyno sheets, go hand in hand with no mph to back it up. Jet-33, High powered/fast cars always have a corresponding mph (unless the driver didn't use all the gears or blew up something halfway down etc.) This is inspite of wheel spin out of the blocks. For instance, I doubt whether I have even 180rwkw and I have a full 3mph more terminal than you, and run a 13.7 with 2.5 60fts (and lots of wheel spin). I'm saying I don't have 180rwkw - you say you do and can't 'show me the money'. Even on a rolling start I'd hand you your ass. Now I'm not trying to dispute the time spent at your local dyno was a waste, you got a good tune out of it and I'm sure and that 180rwkw figure probably indicates a good tuning improvement. there is more to going quick than power as you have said, so why lose focus on the real purpose of the car for the sake of being a 'dyno queen'.

we have a few running 12's over here.

thanks for the ideas so far. No it's not a timing issue, the knock is 'before' full power and timing can be pulled back 10 degrees and it will still occur at the same magnitude. Obviously I take off timing if I can 'hear' a ping at any time but, quite often this is just a very strong 'knock' I had a feeling it might be a fuel supply issue.

nonsense a 10sec daily driver I have seen and know. And when I say daily thats just what it was. Cornering in the wet is fine, your boost doesn't come on till 5000rpm.

I know I did my passes on 205's and yes more sidewall is good (mine are 55 profile).

No it's not the title to a chinese who done it. I have a strange little problem with a mystery 'knock'. I can give it a full throttle take off from standing and 1st gear all the way to 7000rpm is without a rattle. Into second and third there is just a brief knock at 5000rpm each gear. I was wondering if this is the sign of a dicky fuel pump or perhaps something else?

I would save the 205's for a burnout comp, sidewall flex or not . Your 255's let down to 19psi and treated to a nice smokey burnout will provide a much better option.

Inasnt AKA nigasnt.

gradenko is right. Rear wheel horsepower you say? I have a dyno sheet that says 9999rwkw for my stock turbo and cooler so I win! Who cares! Unless of course you love blow off valves and neons and are oftern heard saying things like ' fully sick bro'." How fast is your stock turbo & cooler car? That's what I'm interested in.

My avitar has a 9sec (nitto's) Gtst, with a RB26DET (t88 34d). I was considering it as my next daily driver. Even has a nice stereo. the rb's drive nice even without any boost.

Jeff, Try 19/20psi if the tyres are intended for 'street'. At 15psi you may find that the tyre gets damaged. This will occur more on wide tyres like 225's or larger on stock rims. Hopefully you have at least 225's because I can't reccomend 205's at all.

riggaP, Yes he races go-carts. Yes he smells solvents too often.

Boost restrictor? Nope. And it is not the same as the GTR. What you need is a restriction on the other side of the solenoid.I've done this and had the boost at 10psi (you still have a two step boost curve tho'). And if you want the boost to be 10psi for good then buy a cheap ass bleeder. Better still an EBC.

The auto has a dicky valve body by the looks. Oh well maybe it needs a rebuild with a hi-stall and a shift kit:D The edlebrock manifold will be on today (25hp extra thanks very much!).

the lightened flywheel will decrease the time it takes for the engine to speed up or slow down (to a far lesser degree). I have one of the lightest flywheels around @4.8kg and it's nothing but a pleasure to drive in traffic. My entire car is based on being 'comfortable' over long distances and in heavy traffic for long periods. Many a slow-ass-know-little will tell you that the lightened flywheel is this or that and poo poo. Kick them in the head and move on, if it's your friend then kick them softly in the head.

no. very practical. I'd say my car is more practical than 99.99% of car owners on this forum. (I do 35,000+kms a year in it).

mm-kay.

gts-t Vspec, You mean the idle screw on the throttle body right? Not the solenoid.

How do you 'adjust' the idle solenoid? Or are we talking a 'clean' not an 'adjust'.

The blocking off of the air bypass hole under the the factory BOV, is worth doing, nicer throttle around '0' vacume and early boost pressure.

Nizmo, BOV ? Why do that with $300 when it could be used on something better (ie: makes the car faster).

Poor old volvo's a little bit sick... well the auto is. Didn't like the burnout the other night, I got as much smoke off the auto as the tyres. Now it slips a little under big throttle and if held smokes it up. An example is how I lost (just) to an MR2 turbo (red), I don't know whether this car was actually fast (my experience is they aren't) but the auto didn't like me even though I only used 'D' and shifted at 4000rpm.

the hiflow cat is an oxymoron. It should be called the 'no-flow cat'. Remove it and the power will rise especially at the boosting point onwards. Have a look inside a so called hiflow cat and you will notice that the cross section is well over 50% (very conservative) blocked by catalyst. You can easily get a de-cat pipe made with a convenient 3 bolt flange so you can remove and replace for street or motorsport.

'Hello I'm an agent for Ripoff's Inc.' Ask the guy one more time if the PFC will work (don't tell him it is) then if his answer is the same tell him you got it to work and tell him what you think off his lies.

I have just done a dual fuel on the Volvo wagon (V8). Its a good custom install with 'hi-po gear'. The gas tank is custom mounted between the floor pan and the under carriage, meaning I have not lost an inch of cargo space. (normally the tank must be mounted in the boot). So with a little extra expense you can retain 'some' of the boot space (hell its a tiny boot anyway). The other advantage of gas not mentioned is the fact that it is 'fricken cold' and adds an intercooler like effect. One other big advantage of a gas system is that it can be setup to cope with whatever fuel demmands you may have. This means you can retain the factory ecu and injectors etc when looking to slap a big ass turbo on. The RB25DET motor is ideal for gas use, excellent combustion chambers and good flow,valves and seats. Ideally you would want a HKS cam gear for the exhaust to play with the cam timing. IN WA you get a $500 cash back for converting to gas. On my Volvo my system had engineers permits for the special install and custom chassis bracing and other things and came to less than $2k after rebate. There are spare wheel shaped tanks available also.