rev210

My car's almost a stocker (look completely stock), perhaps you can buy it after it runs a 12 second pass (if you can wait that long).

Any old CO or isopropyl alcohol spray will do fine. The brake cleaner is ok as long as its non-residue.

$18k might buy you mine quite soon. I have to get a new one for tax reasons.

Don't know when I'll race it next I seem to have more work on at home and everywhere than I can escape from. The car needs some serious time for tuning before it goes racing and I still have to fit the edlebrock manifold to the volvo and maybe a high stall converter.

good evening. I have just finished stuffing around with the cam gear again. this time the cam Vs crank timing is at 3degrees retard. I got what I was after -- loads of torque but, now for the first time ever I have to actually 'add' fuel (lots of it) with the S-afc to stop it leaning out at 3400rpm onwards. Bastard tuning because of this cam gear! I even have to get colder plugs now!

I've just reset my exhaust cam gear to 1.5 deg retard (3 crank deg). The mid range improvement is awesome over the previous 2 deg (4 crank) setting. Now I have serious 'leaning out' at as low as 3400rpm that requires me to 'add' fuel on the S-afc, the factory fuel curve can't supply enough!

I'm about to go to 7's myself as with the exhaust cam on retarded timing the cylinder temps are up and the 0.75mm 6's are getting 'cooked' with the timing advance I am running . I'd rather try and keep as much of the advance as I can and a colder range plug helps a little.

The gap on the 6's can be taken down to 0.75mm. I'd lean towards getting some 7's working tho'. The gap could be opened a little wider say 1.1mm to start and then depending on the top end response closed down to 0.9 or 0.8mm. If they work out well invest in some platinums of the same spec and take the gap out 0.05mm more. The thing to check on is the 'regular driving' aspect of the colder plug. They will be fab up in the higher rpms but if the gap is a tad small then they will foul on low throttle stuff. It's not a bad thing to have a test of some colder range plugs with the intention of using them on performance events only.

I don't know who told you that but, it sounds like bulldust. Or perhaps they meant doesn't become as sticky as other tyres or even 'they are sticky to start with and the vht doesn't add much extra'. Vht makes rubber compound tyres 'sticky' even tyres with silicone content. We found some tyres better than others in terms of responding to VHT (they all got more sticky tho'). Back in the days when you rigged a squirter bottle over the rear tyres so the officials couldn't see it when you did the burnout on street meet days (they still seem to skim on track treatment these days too).

try 13.4 @ 104mph. 3300lbs is about what the R33 would weigh with fuel and driver.

that 1/4mile estimater is pretty crap.

just tried this std vent to atmo with the S-afc setup. It's crap. Changing back staright away.

Adam, It's more the case that people farkup their standard street cars handling with half baked ideas re: tyres and suspension. They are often putting mismatched parts together, assuming that if itsenough for a race car its good enought for their car (and will make it faster). Very low profile tyres are more a cosmetic gimmic than an actual performance enhancer. At best it does nothing and at worst it just doesn't provide the feel and grip of a little taller profile. I have driven a couple of skylines with coil overs and wider aftermarket rims and tyres and can only say that most would not keep up with my stockie aound corners. The atessa system or any 4wd helps no argument, but the concept of sidewal flex (ideally on tyres designed to do this) is just as important irrespective. GTR's will go quicker on slicks and that is the model of sidewall flex you try to copy with street tyres for the drags.

Yes its all coming together now. 1) drive at a safe speed. Don't take too much just enough to keep you 'alert' (see rule 8) 2)Don't drink and drive. Drink first, you can't shoot up the speed and drink and drive at the same time 3) Follow the road rules, because you add valuable revenue to the drug dealing community and help justify the existance of support groups. 4) Concentrate at all times (never cut the stuff down with glucose you are only cheating yourself) and be prepared (make sure you have extra in the glove box) 5) Be patient, when in doubt , don't proceed (If the clearence on the front spoiler is low and you don't think the dog in front of you will clear it , don't continue running it over -- stop and shoot it instead) 6)Plan your moves in well advance. Make sure you 'scope out' the good looker in the car in the next lane and think up appropriate facial gestures well in advance. 7) Give correct signals. Eg: The finger --- when you get cut off. The gun --- when they do it a second time. 8) Be alert at intersections. As per rule 1, use appropraite amounts. 9) Know your vehicle. Love is a beautifull thing. 10)Be polite and considerate toward other road users* (* only applies to vehicles over 40 tonnes laiden with flamible liquids or gas and driving on the wrong side of the road)

And number 9... Know your vehicle. Just what sort of new pervesion is this 'vehicle-knowledge'. I say love your car, but hey not it that way!

hang on Joe.... rule number 8 says be alert at intersections. Is this implying the use of illegal sitmulants, amphetamines for instance ?

yes ceramic coating is quite good for those fiddly areas that tape doesn't do as easy. Having said that the turbo to intercooler pipe doesn't have much on it at all and it just saves a few $$$ before you go and get the ceramic stuff. $100 worth of thermal tape will probably do your dump pipe and the intercooler pipe.

nismoR34, tyre/rim size changes puts the speedo out a little.

McCracken, The point of wrapping the exhaust is to do it correctly. Having said that a semi-moron can do the job properly and it will never crack. * clean the surface to be wrapped. * spray 1 coat of silicone based high temp exhaust paint * Properly cure the paint. Go for a drive /let it cool, go for a drive let it cool (as per paint instructions) * Re-coat if necessary * wrap the pipe EVENLY. Do not wrap the same section of pipe several times for good measure, just do it to the same coverage all round (as per instruction). * Apply a final spray of high temp paint.

yep the exhaust side most benificial. The intercooler pipe from turbo to intercooler benifits from thermal wrap as well, keeps it nice and hot.

adam if you want less time to spool (the revs will remain the same but you will get there quicker) then a light flywheel and pulleys (also reduced ratio). An easy and cheap way to speed the exhaust gas on it's way is to thermal wrap the dump pipe. I'd say the cam pulleys are worth the $$, at least all you need is the 1 exhaust pulley to sharpen up the turbo end of things.

Miko, I blame your S.A heritage for you not liking cricket. And the fall you had as an infant.

Joe I really focus on rule number '3' The 'rad' rules man! Like you know when a totally awsome bit of narlly speed bump is there in the shopping car park and you know you just have to do a major brake burnout on it! Always put the surfboard in before any passenger, passengers are second class dude.....

I am banned from bear-hugging. I got stange looks from the toy department staff and customers and my freinds were embarrased.

Joe, I wish it was a comb over. NiZmo, I would never ask the basketballer thing, instead I say "WOW are you an underwater income tax accountant? Do you really have gills? Do you really write balance sheets with special underwater carrots?" you know that kind of thing....