rev210

2530's and 250rwkw is big time porky pies. Could bearly get that at the motor.

missed the ones on today. Its a shame because they do a proper track prep, unlike the wednesday nights I normally go to. The extra traction would have been nice. I'll try to get down to a meeting before my trip to SA & NT in april.

I think we understand each other. Stock is pretty crap. Though the wrong replacement intercooler can take the meaning of crap to new heights and $$$. The bigger fmic will get you extra top end power. But, too big and it will take longer to reach the revs it makes that power at. You will know the fmic is too big when you can't get quicker than a 13.5 on the stock turbo and ecu on a real 1/4mile. Then again if you go circuit racing the effect isn't quite as bad due to reduced heat soak. A properly sized replacement intercooler will get you a 12sec pass on a stock turbo and ecu, with the usual mods. This would be about 280/290hp at the flywheel with the same response time as the original cooler.

Plan A & B complete.

I can get meguires in bulk (4L). Its very cheap purchased that way. Just get a few of us to pitch in for a big tin and we can refill our empty meguires bottles. I'll get a price shortly.

macka, is the car put back together yet mate? You should be on-selling some of that bulk toluene you got to punters at the track, might help finance the repairs.

Hicks, If you are really hard up then you can borrow my rear tyres. 205/55/16 Simex on stock rims. Then again I think your 19's would work better.

the trust E-01 is the new kid on the block and looks to be a very capable unit.

I know you were kidding dude. Just having a lend myself. Afterall everyone knows Hicks can't be beaten and Hyundai's are just so fast that they need an atomic clock to register the 1/4 times you get out of them.

Gts-t Vspec, Ok you can win by default. Oh there's always Hicks and the hyundai excels for you to 'beat', they are certainly in your league.

Don't rub it in. I'll see if I can make it to spectate but, the trauma of not being able to race may prove to much to bear.

I'm out. Haven't got time or $ after the overseas trip. I'll just have to go when the track is less prepared. Doh!

sLo-32, The reason the s14 without a fmic went harder is due to the reason I posted most likely.

done in 3rd gear?

I've run 35degrees base timing on regular bp98. About 25-30degress at the moment. fmic will always make a difference. The peak power will be higher for sure. The only problem is some 'oversized' fmic packages will lose response over the factory and make the car slower to accellerate over 400m.

If it happens when you hit 2nd or 3rd from a standing start test and doesn't act up at all through 1st gear then the fuel pump is perhaps at fault. When I say standing start or rolling start run at 5000rpm I mean going from 1st through all the gears to 4th as if racing. You might only get to 2nd when it occurs. If it occurs in the later gears and not the 1st fueling is the issue. It could be ecu 'fuel cut' also.

Change your fuel filter, you should do this regularly anyhow. The fuel pump issue, will play out like this; * try getting up to 5000rpm in 1st using light throttle, then at 5000rpm cruise put your foot flat to the floor. If the same issue occurs straight away it's probably not your fuel pump. If it allows you to gun it through first and then starts doing its thing in 2nd or 3rd then the fuel pump might be at fault. The spark plugs maybe too hot for the load. Try a range or two colder. Buy cheap copper ones. Check your base timing.

power? you should use 240V AC if your in Australia. Seriously, don't worry about comparing dyno figures except with your own from the same day and dyno. Is 160rwhp too low? Probably not. Why don't you see how fast you car is. If it's too slow for you modify it some more. If beating other people in a dyno comparison is what you like to do then knock yourself out.

4 degrees retard on exhaust works. I did mine. easy power.

It provides stronger acceleration due to improved A/F ratios, I am not sure how much accelleration yet. Worth correcting. I don't think the FMIC is a particularly good value for money mod on the stock turbo, I haven't done the FMIC yet (probably won't) and I estimate a 12 second pass on the stock turbo next outing to the drag strip. The FMIC or not should have no bearing on when you buy the AFC.

deesh, Regular changing of plugs is not really necessary if they are functional. However they ought to be checked every oil change. They can reveal some good information about the engines state of tune.

The car has had a very hard life too. I mean denzo has been driving it! $45k is expensive, for a time bomb. I can get hold of a few better cars in japan that have had just as hard a life for less. More power, more $$ worth of parts and much better looking. Check my avitar -- landed and complied (hurry you only have days left) it would be under $30k. 800PS at the tyres, OS giken diff, gear box, Ogura 4plater , mega buck RB26 blah blah blah... An R33 GTST is always an R33 GTST, thats what is says on the comp. plate. And that is all the market cares about. If you modify a car thinking you can make a profit on its sale then you are insane. Just ask Ford or Holden (they don't sell enough to cover costs). If you expect to recover even 1/2 of what you spent you are either ignorant or a used car salesperson. That said it's a nice car. Good luck to them trying to sell it for $45k they will need it.

steve, The exhaust cam gear is all you can do if you retain variable valve timing on the inlet (ie: you have a stock ecu with a S-afc or such). I recently did mine (exhaust) and retarded it 4deg. The exhaust cam is the better of the two for power adjustment on a turbo, not to say the inlet has no benifit. The overlap and duration of the exhaust side of valve control gives turbo cars extra zing if done right. The inlet cam will allow some extra advance, for peak power at the expense of mid range. As for aftermarket cams: They are usually designed with a 0deg install in mind, on a 'perfect match' engine, the one they were designed to work with. The cam gears then allow such after market cams to be propperly 'dialed in' to suit your engine characteristics. So its not a case of 'cams optimising the cam gears' it's the other way around. If you want 600HP with bottom end torque you might want to look at a 3litre conversion and/or a supercharger.

Steve, Pun intended. the 6ES is what I have at the moment, gapped to 0.7mm (0.8mm is not as good with the timing I run). They are a pretty warm plug. The 7ES equivilents I have in the form of Auto-lite racing plugs proved a better option for higher rpm use, I had them gapped to 1.1mm. The only problem with them was that I had them on the stock ecu with fewer mods than I do now. The plugs became fouled at the lower speeds I used 'around town'.

Yeah the alcohol injection works a treat and for someone who has moderate car knowledge, the better kits are very easy to setup. Isopropyl is the go for an injection substance and allows 'much' higher boost levels.