rev210

you don't blow the spark out when the gap is bigger. The bigger spark increases the heat of the 'bang' this will wear the electrode if the mixture is too lean. I'll have to give it a test then I guess.

toss a coin. exhaust & lightened flywheel. The flywheel is cheaper. 0.4sec 1/4mile reduction on the light flywheel mod. yet to see that sort of gain on an 'intercooler change' on a stockie. Besides the fact that the flywheel is 1/3 the price.

Xeron, Thanks for the input. The gap can be opened up on a colder range of plug. The 75HP thing isnt right but, thanks again.

This is a piggy back unit right? 8x9 fuel mapping isn't real good. For the farting around I'd stick to the S-AFC.

giz01, Well I guess he ended up pretty happy with 9's? in the end. I still reckon the 13.4 on a standard automatic is fab, I don't think he even had a high stall. Overall I reckon what he did helps inspire more guys to have a go with automatic transmitions.

the malpassi is a very good regulator. Anyone tell you otherwise is in the minority.

the supra twin turbo fuel pumps 1993 onwards are good for 600HP or so. The standard injectors are good for a fair bit with a malpassi hooked up.

giz01, On his website he states a best of 13.4 with avgas & toluene,big street tryes and 14psi of boost. Not bad for an Auto. Whatisname, The misfire thing has to do with fouled plugs or burnt electrodes. Fouled plugs --- too cold a range (not enough revs) , too rich a mixture , to small plug gap. Burnt electrode --- too hot a range (too much rpm/ combustion pressure) , too lean a mixture , to large a plug gap. The advantage of a bigger plug gap is a nice big spark. Big spark is better. Little plug gaps are a compromise 0.6 or the 0.7 I'm running is a tad on the small side but, necessary on a hotter plug. The colder plugs are better at high rpm work but, as a compromise are not happy at lower revs due to lower combustion chamber temps. The ideal is to raise exhaust/combustion temps in the lower part of the rev range as best you can. The temperature often relates to power generated anyway so more torque is a good thing. The ceramic coating of piston tops and combustion chambers would be an example. I believe that the thermal insulation of the exhaust and turbo manifold help a little as well. The use of nitrous oxide also raises combustion temps (note not intake temps) and it is common practice to run a colder plug or so from memory. This is all Dave speculation tho'.

Oh yeah? my dads a policeman!

Thats right it's another thread on plugs! I have a question about plug choice for those who are reving the engine to a peak power around 7000rpm on the stock turbo: What plugs have you tried against what you are running and are happy with now? I have 6ES units at 0.7mm gap, but since I have a S-AFC I was thinking of going to 7's or 8's with a larger gap. My old rule of thumb for every car from rotory to V8 is 6's for 6000rpm , 7's for 7000rpm and 8's for 8000rpm etc. For my old ported chooker it was 6's for traffic driving (don't fowl easy) and 9's for spirited driving.

like mine when it came out...nice and cooked! the material has been 'glazed', the abillity to grip is therefore reduced.

You know I just had another play with the S-afc and I thought 'yay - I've got it all sorted' cause I had a whole day without fuss and ping and a little bit more timing. Then when I least expect it..... ping and knock. I have the tune sailing too close to the wind I guess but, boy does it go now! I have added a little fuel in the correction map up top +3. I have kept a fair bit of timing to boot. I am tempted to go a colder plug and see if I can keep the advance but if what steve says about the 6ES is right then there is probably another way around it. I have my trusty Autolite racing plugs that are a range cooler (7 equivalents) these I had with a gap of 1.1mm before the other bits went in and although a tad cold for the rich stock ecu maps they ran a little better than the 6ES up top all the same (then fouled doh! I expected that). I'll have to clean them up again. Anyone else tried the Autolites? Steve, Do you reckon there is more power to be had if I retard the timing (its about 5degrees past the last mark at idle) and then do a leaner correction using the 6ES plugs? Also if you would like me too I can bring the car in sometime on the 14th of march.

Dan, has brett finished the car yet mate? Has it got some more power? Enough to beat even the great XR6, who stands above us all?

240kw...Wow it must break the sound barrier with that much power! Owners of the new XR6 can travel back in time its that fast!

sounds about right. That makes the falcon as heavy as my car on most days.

It is so! Its got two baby seats in it and a pram in the back at all times. Its a wagon so its even more of a family car than the XR6. Only part of the interior that doesn't look family is the B&M megashifter.

not bad for a family car tho? I'll give one a drag in my volvo and see how it fairs in the family car war.

Hickups with the HKS gear. I have finally ironed out some of the ping bugs from the HKS gear. I wound up with less timing and having to actually 'add' extra fuel in the upper part of the rev range. I am not sure if there is a greater benifit running less fuel and less timing but, I'll leave that to the guy I get to do a quick dyno tune of the Apexi. I have NGK 6ES plugs in at the moment with 0.7mm gap, I am thinking of running a 7ES with a larger 0.9 or 1.1mm gap to see if I can recover some of the lost timing. Anyone got an opinion on this?

I drove home (50kms) on 20psi.

they are a mid 14 second car mate. As tested (on the road so times are somewhat better) 14.4sec 400m. There was one recently at the creek I think and it ran a best of 14.6.

104mph? I'll be pulling 107+mph soon mate.

Sydneykid, I have tried (still have) a pieltier and heat sink attached to my intercooler and also used 'freeze spray'. Some time ago I made a design for the freeze spray to be mounted and activated by a switch in the cabin (which autospeed kindly published in an artcile on freeze spraying intercoolers). The Autospeed article did some testing on a dyno (not ideal due to un-realistic airflow) and it revealed a very small increase with freeze spray and almost none with a water spray. What I have found is that both the systems offer little extra full boost power, but are very good at bringing temps down quicker when the throttle is lifted or the car is at rest. The air movement at speed is different to a dyno environment and as this is super critical to intercooler function the dyno has to be taken with a grain of salt.

ed, the injection kits availible are designed for 'after' the intercooler, as they are aimed at the combustion process. The water or alcohol needs to remain 'atomised' when entering the head.

the down side is it doesn't do much at all. Under high load and boost it does virtually nothing. It helps to cool the ic down quicker after a period of boost (ie: works ok when 'off' boost to remove heat soak faster). Water or alcohol injection on the other hand is worthwhile.

I get the odd 'rattle' at the same sort of speed. The setup is less tolerant of this sort of 'slug' driving style. It's not good for fuel ecconomy either way so just don't do it.