rev210

oops sorry wrong forum ! someone move it to the WA forum section?

Hey guys (particularly the workshop people). What about having a year long competion between tuners at various track events? Award evening/show at the end of the year where awards are given out to tuners for various areas of competition. It would be a great PR oppertunity for import tuning in general.

i say settle it in a 'track duel' like gentlemen. Grudge match racing, hey thats gona work for all sides and provide some 'good' PR. You might even end up with a tribal sort of rivalry amongst the supporters of each tuning house (kinda like the holden and ford thing). I believe this sort of tuning house competition is common in japan and would provide a bit of entertainment for the punters. We could have a points system for the year and have a big industry party and award presentation at the end of the competition year. This sort of thing would be good for the profile of businesses involved in jap-performance tuning.

The HKS turbo's are made by garret. If you can measure the HKS componets you can make your own 'identical' down to the HKS badge.

the intercooler is helped by ducting as well. The idea is to create a low pressure area behind the intercooler. The air as it passes through needs to be routed somewhere.

When I tried to run the engine with the cover off to test. I forgot that the extra space the cover adds and the cam gear bolts machined a nice surface on the back of the CAS. Metal filings all over the place, no harm tho.

HKS get the turbos from garret. HKS have their own build spec. combo's that they put together from Garret parts. These are what HKS believe offer the best performance for what ever goal HKS had in mind. The same goals they have may not be yours however. So a turbo builder that has been around a while may have more to offer you in terms of a purpose built turbo for your needs.

Steve, I'd always get the Aussi boys to do machine work. Kosteki have got the one of the best flowbench setups in the southern hemisphere. And quite a number of our engine builders are internationally recognised. I agree that dyno work is often best done by locals, at least why not if they have experience and are fluent in the native tongue for communication reasons (ie: shut it off ! my farken hands caught in the alternator belt! --- loses something in japanese translation). Maybe the jap guy was jet-lagged or forgot we only have 98 RON?

Jash, I think we are all on the same wavelength about the CAS knocking. You do it, I do it and Steve does it. And we all feel because we have done the timing so many times (me way less than you guys) we don't really need the light. XRW was possibly pointing out the situation to others. Then again when he first mentioned it I think it was just a friendly 'dig' at Steve as a tit for tat. XRW, I find it amazing to think such bollocking up of very basic machining could occur on such expensive engines. Most reconditioners do this sort of work in thier sleep, you would expect a bit more from specialist's. You must have been a tad dissapointed at any rate. Good to hear they are doing the right thing for you all the same. I guess the phrase 'only human' applies.

Dan I wouldn't go buying the plastic cover if I were you. At least if you only have the exhaust cam wheel you can hardly see it from the CAS bracket.

I put the cover back on. If you leave it off then you will need to put washers inbetween the CAS and the brakcet it bolts to. Otherwise the CAS will be pushed into the bolts holding the cam wheel on. The cover is easy to put on and take off. For the sake of greater wear on the belt and the horrible possibillity of droping bolts into the bottom half of the cover (I'm sure a good 3hrs work getting the bastard off and back on) I am leaving the cover 'on'. If you are worried about heat affecting the CAS then it would be more prudent to ceramic coat the cover. Having said that I doubt the CAS is affected at all by the relatively little heat it cops.

All bleed valves spike and don't hold boost like an EBC. I know people with the XS valve. It spikes and it doesn't hold boost.

I could be wrong about the vacume thing, I'll check on the way home. Miko, The CAS is dead easy. Putting the Cam gear on with the belt lined up is a son of a bitch (elbow grease). Broken bolt mate? Those brass bolts are very weak so they don't strip the thread in the soft alloy. Never over tighten any bolt like them they will break on you. The CAS will be fine being held in place by two I'm sure. It should be a peice of cake to drill it out of the alloy bracket.

HKS cam gear is in! oooh extra power!

I been driving around and its more than fine dude. In fact, appart from the timing needing a little backing off, it goes better than before, shows more vacume too for some reason. No the camgear is neat but, un-informative. It probably is the little marks, at least its good if it is cause I have set the gear up right already and don't have to re-do it.

its on! did it just after lunch. 30min job. Now all I need to do is set the thing up. At the moment I am driving around with two 'little notches' of retard. I did this as the HKS piece of paper is a little vague. It says every mark = 2 degrees. However there are 'big marks' and 'little marks' on the adjustment wheel. Not sure if they are reffering to just the big marks or not. Anyone know? Even the little I have adjusted seems to have sharpened up the midrange, to the detriment of detonation which I can see from the knock sensor is going to visit the moment I hit 5000+rpm. So later on I'll re-adjust the crank timing to suit.

XRW, I've had a timing gun on my car before, made a mark on the CAS.I know the position so well I don't even need to look at the mark. I don't need the timing light as a refference. If I over advance I will pick that up long before I get a ping, thanks to the knock sensor. The CAS is where I make the mark for refference/starting point. The timing light can be used to make experimental adjustments in increments in the same way as rotating the CAS. There is an ideal spot for timing that doesn't ping and gives extra response, I don't need to use a timing light on my car right now to do that. How do you think you improve timing performance with just a timing gun, you would certainly agree with me that it can't tell you anything important as far as thats concerned. What you need is the engine knock and some sort of power reading to determine if you are advanced too far or not far enough. Perhaps we just misunderstood each other. I appologise if I am stating the obvious to you to get the point across.

My pressure plate looked quite reasonable so I didn't replace it. No need to get 2000lb+ pressure plate for my low horsepower application and the fact that I don't tow boats and carravans.

I have moved the CAS without a timing light plenty of times. After a while you get an idea of where the thing should be based on the engine response. I can't use the timing marks anyway, I've gone right past them. Steve-sst, you obviously tune the right way. Use response/power and engine knock to determine optimum timing. The timing light doesn't tell you jack! It tells you what the timing 'is' not if it's too much or not enough.

If your after 200rwkw then just go to myaree dyno, if 200rwkw is the magical number then myaree must be the most magical place on earth!

I can drive 2500lb clutches without a blink but, the average joe will find it nasty to live with.

Ellwood, It's a pretty simple formula. The start of this thread has an outline of my plan that would suit you very well. The only thing you might like to add is a highflow(nothing too big) rebuilt turbo and a correctly sized intercooler to suit. A larger fuel pump and malpassi fuel reg. Then again just doing the stuff I have will make the car a great daily driver, cause I do 35,000+kms worth of daily driving a year.

I had the cheapest tyre money can buy, simex 205/50's. I chose the cheapest cause I use my car for work and it does lots of kms. 35,000+kms last year.

Miko has a 2200lbs pressure plate, if that. It might even be 2000lbs. After driving a load of cars with 2500lb clutches I can assure you Miko's isn't 2500lb. Try Rob's clutch before you decide. You won't even need to start the car to see what I mean. They are leg breakers.

most ebc's have two preset boosts. 'Normal' and 'kill your motor'