rev210

What sort of ecu remap have you got? I've heard that the R33 can use a remapped R32 ecu if you ditch the VVT.

Replace it with a metal or pvc pipe and as long as the two ends are rubber (forget silicone, it's unnecessary) it will have enough flex.

MFX_R33, The front is the make or break part. 90/10 shocks are best but, boy are they crap for driving around town. If you have the diff cradle angle right (ala' cradle pinapples) the rear will squat regardless. The stiff front end is where the trouble starts. I have standard 'soft' rear suspension and it does me no favours. Stiffer rear setup would get me a better 60ft

the sepparate dump pipe does not help. It can be a hinderance on a stock turbo. The units form the Jap tuning houses do not have them for a good reason. Let the people who disagree with me beat my 1/4 time. (jokes)

Thanks benm. Not really a smart guy, just did everything the hard way before and have learnt not to make the same mistakes twice...er five times. It's probably less %'s than just tick the boxes. Dave's three D's. Driver ---- Bad smelling thrasher of gearboxes Drivetrain ---- Everything from mota to tyres Dragstrip ---- Oh automatic fluid...I thought it was VHT..

I have the stock 95,000km pressure plate. Light as. Very easy to use and no slip thanks to the 9 button fiction plate.

just do it in mild steel and thermal wrap it. or if you want to do it on the cheap clark rubber sell a aluminium foil backed foam. By the metre it is about $23 and you could cable tie it around the pipe.

Works Auto. They flow enough for mid 13's all day on skinny little tyres, without any fueling adjustment and extra weight in the backseat. The power has been increased since the last mid 13's meet. And the torque will see a further rise with the exhaust cam gear. I am confident there is more than enough power flowing/squeezing throught the std turbo and cooler to propel the whale over the line in under 13sec . The trick will be the 60ft. With a 2.1 I will get close, 2.0 or lower will see me safely there. If not there are a few other things I'll resort to. I strongly doubt the turbo or intercooler will need changing at any rate.

skyzerr33, Are you sure you want the 2500lb pressure plate?I'm pretty sure He does a 2200lb which is significantly lighter. Even a 2000lb would be good. The 2500lb is a leg breaker if you are not used to them. And it's quite a bit of overkill clamp wise.

If you spend $3k and you are happy, who can argue with that?

GTS-t Vspec, The good thing about the exhaust side is that the slight retard on the exhaust valve is helping the turbo out. You get peak power and torque as a result, at least when the turbo comes on boost which is nice and low on a stocker. I expect about 5kw @ motor more power but, also 4-5kw extra through from begining of the full boost rpm. We will soon find out if the 1/4 results reflect the idea.

I think you can always custom make a shroud. The shroud will make a big difference to the cooling. Even if you have to cut the factory one its worth trying to keep it.

softer on the front help. Hard as hell on the back is good too.

If the cam timing, duration and lift are the same from one stock R33 to the next then so is the right cam gear dial in. Timing and perhaps fuelling will need re-adjustment to better suit but, ultimately the effects in the combustion process are identical from one skyline to the next if the exhaust camshaft is the same. I can understand the need to check based on having an RB25 NA with the 4degrees of extra duration or an aftermarket cam. 'Seat of the pants' (feeling the G's) is not very accurate. But having a good ol drive around is what counts.

thermo fans really need the fan shroud to do a good job of 'sucking' the air throught the radiator.

The mines VX rom works great with high octane (read over 100+ RON) with the 98 stuff over here you can expect very little gain at all. Just like 'Topsecret' and Blitz and all the others who do 'chipped' factory ecus they are unsuitable. BTW ,It doesn't remap itself, at least the base AF curve shape stays the same and the ignition curve does likewise. It learns in closed loop mode just like the factory unit which does not affect the performance aspect. The agressive timing curve put in these things is not at all suitable for our octane. You can always run toluene tho. Unless they produce a unit for Aussi fuels then I'd leave them well alone.

235's will 'radial roll' when cornering. Apart form that its more rubber for traction at the strip.

If I feel game enough I'll put the gear in at home, and sadly dissapoint those guys waiting to see the dyno of my car. Then again I might just let someone else get the cuts and scrapes and pay them to do it. In that case I will get the dyno time.

turbodumb spiker..er bleeder valves like mine are just what you don't need. If you got $$ then the G-reddy E-01 by trust is the ants pants, set the boost per rpm even.

cheers mate.

yeah with the ass 'o' meter, then again it could have been the chilli and guiness. As long as you do a 1/4mile long burnout it doesn't matter what time you get. Why don't you get hold of some AZNU ozrace tyre treatment for when you go down mate?

MRK25T, Most clutch kits are rated in flywheel horsepower/kw. In the case of OS and Ogura. This should make it easy.

Ahhh... cool! Thanks mate. nengun website. http://www.nengun.siteblast.com/gallery.as...galleryPage=all

GTS-vspec, I hear what you are saying but, what can possibly go wrong installing these things? What does a tuner have to do right? Is there a secret technique handed down by zen budhist monks or something?

from the look of the mesh there may be as much as 3-4kw@motor in the top end by removing both. More if you have a higher output engine than stock (ie: big turbo)