rev210

Nengun is the way to go! I use them and takakaira.com.

Who has had problems with installing the cam gear? What do the tuners stuff up? Is it the timing position or do they damage parts upon install? I'm just curious to know GTS-Vspec as it sounds like you have had some experience around this issue.

gts-vspec, Might have a look at doing it myself. I've changed timing chains and things before, it's even easier when its a belt. The key is to mark everything set at 0deg TDC and line it all back up. The only thing I have never encountered is the crank angle sensor thingo. Anyone had a go t doing this themselves?

HKS exhaust cam gear has arrived! And I have given the S-afc II a bit more tuning last night along with some timing adjustments, I think I found another 5 hp. I will get down the plex' for a test as soon as I get the cam gear on. 12 seconds here I come!

Well it's here. Nengun got them in for me and within 3 days they have arrived. Now I will attack the plex' with real 12 second potential.

benm, 0.4 sec improvement on the 1/4mile from fitting mine (the only mod done to get the improvement from previous best of 13.8).

'accurate rwkw' rating is almost an oxymoron, these days.

http://www.mohdparts.com/emanage/ a good place to start with the emanage info.

trUnkz, Do you want the car to be 'done up' to go quicker or 'done up' to look quick. Looks are easy. Just buy the one you think looks the best. If you want the car to go quicker, it is possible the car can be 'done up' the wrong way and you will spend the greater part of your income fixing it back up. Here are a few tips: As a part of the mechanical inspection, test the compression both hot and cold. Ask when the last time diff/gearbox and engine oils were changed etc and the regularity. If the owner claims to have a car that does the 1/4 in any particular time ask to see the time slip. If the owner claims any particular power output ask to see the dyno printout and then totally disregard it. Check the underside for any evidence of accident damage (Dents in the chassis rail etc. particluar attention to the front and rear). The most important tip is to test drive as many skylines as possible including dead stock ones so you get a 'feel' for the car and the way it ought to behave.

You know Trust have a monster RB26 race engine powered by the e-manage.

MFX_R33, Make sure the 16inch stockies have nice wide rubber on them. I really can't reccomend 205's for an easy launch.

The ogura is 4.8kg and fantastically well engineered and for it's weight is quite cheap. 4.8kg is about as light as you can get and is less than half the original weight. Given our dollar strength against the yen, you will get the ogura cheaper than I did.

'bedding in' only takes a hundred k's or so. It involves slipping the clutch with a few more revs than normal and not giving it any boot fulls until its done. If you give it heaps before hand it may take little 'chunks' of material out of the disc.

Rob, know what you mean when its your pride and joy. I think it's great however if you do attempt to learn 'hands on' and have the support and the time to spare. Once simple things are conquered then you can save money on regular servicing and put it towards having a punt on something a bit bigger and still have a few $ left over to cover your ass if you don't get it right the first time. Before you know it you will be able to really hate cars...er work on cars.

rob, You have the same clutch plate as mine. They need to have a 'bedding in' period. I have no shudder at all, I can take off from idle in 2nd gear without kangaroo hop. You do have a very agressive 2500lb pressure plate tho, makes trying to slip the clutch a bit of an effort over stock. The pressure plate is something you don't have to go othe top with and in return you get a very stock feel to your clutch, with great grab.

I run on empty all the time. I've got over 60kms without running out with the light on. AI, The yuky stuff in your tank always ends up in the filters, thats why you ought to change them regularly(this includes cleaning the fliter sock on the intank pump). If you need to corner at high speed (I assume on the race track) a purpose built surge tank is a great way to go.

Ogura is a good clutch brand too.

the mesh is there to stop knuckle heads from poking screwdrivers into the hot wire. It is a restriction and you will increase airflow/hp by removing it. It is not designed to 'smooth airflow' it is just cheap-ass(uneven and poorly constructed) mesh. Do yourself a favour after checking your head for knuckles.

It's a car I've long considered buying but, is too impractical for a work car. Yes it is 'that' car.

The 9 Puck I have, and the standard pressure plate mean my car drives just like stock.I chose this option because my wife still drives the car now and then. It hooks up like anything its great!

the E-01 is one of the best boost controllers around, and it is part of the e-manage package enabling boost control and hand control and display of real time data from the e-manage unit. As a 'component' upgrade system the e-manage is the leading edge stuff.

mate, you can buy mine after I get the 12 second pass with it.

yep.

Silver gts-t, There is an R32 over here running 13.3 with pretty stock equipment. Due to the lighter weight the R32's should be just as easy to get into 12's. Hey, I haven't done the 12sec pass yet. So I can't count my chickens before they hatch.

They should cold airbox them. Unless you don't really care about losing power over stock and just like the pod sound.