rev210

*go and buy a 'line locker', activate it for the launch, deactivate it as you reach the braking area (end'o 1/4) *Get some wide tyres with high proflie for the back and let them down to 19psi or so. Do a burnout (use the line locker for this too) *Put it into 1st and lean on the throttle until the back wheels just start to turn and back off a mickeys hair. This has the thing 'stalled' and ready to go. Floor it and jump off the brake as you take off. On the stock auto you'd probably get a 1700rpm or so stall going, thats quite a good bit of torque to slam the turbo quickly into boost (std turbo comes on around 2200rpm). Some thing else you may need is a bigger trans cooler, overheating the trans is a quick killer of them. High stall is a good idea if the box if beefed up a little more. wouldn't need anything more than a 2500rpm job on the stock turbo.

Summoner, I'll run you with the aircon on, thermal underwear, viking helmet and the ABBA CD on. Oh wait....I meant run-into you. It is a volvo after all.

before people ask me "how do I know my AFR's aren't lower?" Look how much fricken timing I've run on it! Now with the S-afc sorting things I can't run as much if I want the leaner pastures. And I can lean quite alot without dropping below factory advance.

My AFR's non-SAFC are around the 12's at best, for sure. my ecu is a '522'. What a rip off I only got the 94 ecu! Thats why my car is so slow! I knew it those bastards! That does it I'm putting the concrete in my boot tonight! BTW I am pretty sure my R33 is making around 270HP @ the motor maybe a little less. Judging from the cars speed and my previous experiences.

Here is an example : 400Hp or just a snick under in a car that weighs the same as an R33 line (VH commodore) low 11's all day on street rubber, 10's with slicks. Skylines are not a special case. Apply the basics with that much power and you will get the times.

One more time for the record... Mine's use the factory air box on their 600+HP GTR's. For 'alternative sounds' turn to the pod. Power gains? Well over a stock paper element airbox a couple of horsepower (maybe 4 or 5) are to be had using either a K&N style replacement panel OR a pod with a cold air box. The standard panel will flow 900odd CFM, more than enough I'd say. The air feed to the factory air box can be improved but, it is actually taken from the very best spot for air pressure (under the lip of the bonnet). Under dyno testing this is something that you won't pick up (the air movement is nothing like actually moving the car) but, the results under speed are worth the trouble. Finally, the sprung rubber intake pipe from airflow meter to turbo is quite restrictive indeed, more gains here (about double) than from messing around with the airfilter. Cheeper as well.

did you say you can't see that happening? Thats ok it won't then.

engine. don't make me slap you!

was a silver one (GTR).

standard should be ok if its 400HP or less .

benm, Mate, thats an easy one: I can tell you it will be less than 300HP at the flywheel, cause all I got is the std turbo. Done. All I have to do now is run the 12, thats the fun part.

I almost got to line up next to a silver R32 GTR, with the same plates, in the Volvo today. Damn lucky he was I tell ya! He was chicken no-doubt!

turbomad, thats why I don't get all ga ga over rear wheel dyno figures. If I take my car to Myaree Dyno over here I'll probably get more than 300rwhp (it's a dyno dynamics dyno too). I wouldn't have any issues using their dyno (high readings aside) because I wouldn't be there to get figures to brag about, I'd be there to tune my car. It's not a case of 'hence 300+HP at the flywheel' if you work backwards like that you often wind up with a bulldust figure that you can't back up on the street or track for some strange reason. best leave the rearwheel dyno charts with others from the same car and dyno. Dyno's are for tuning.

The turbo is rated to 'flow' a certain amount of HP worth of air at a standard temperature and pressure. If the temp is lower etc the power can be a bit higher and visa versa. Other variables can allow a greater power to be developed from the same volume of air too. Coming back to the HKS 2835, they are rated upto 480PS odd depending on the turbo specs. I'd say that it was a big spec 480PS item. What does the article say?

The 272's will kick in at around 4000+rpm and give the motor more legs to 8000+rpm. Something around 250 or so duration would be a better choice for a streeter. I think there are a few around 254 duration. Most aftermaket cams need to 'dialed in' according to the motor. The factory usually designs them for a 0 deg fit but, depending on what you have done they may benifit with various timing settings.ie: don't take 4 degrees as gospel if you use non factory cams.

benm, The sooner you kick my ass the better mate! It means we have even more gtst's running 12's soon after no doubt. Get yourself down the creek' for a few runs , you'll have a blast.

Summoner is 2 tenths faster with only two wheel drive so if you don't launch well it's all over.

yep, I should have mentioned I have removed the mesh. It would improve airflow a little (it's quite obvious because it is a restriction), not so much power you'd notice though. The mesh is there to stop knuckleheads poking screwdrivers into the hot wire. It certainly not there to smooth airflow beacuse the mesh is cheap ass and not completely even due to cheap manufacture.

good mod hey benm?

I'll have to start the ' pull 12sec 1/4's and extract teeth in a fairly stock gtst (a how to guide)' thread. 25GTT, tie some fishing wire around the offending tooth and tie the other end around the steering wheel. With the new boost controller you should be able to have them come out as the boost kicks in hard.

benm, It's good to see the power improved with the new zorst. The thing is rear wheel dyno's are for tuning and not too good for comparison. I can tell you that the std turbo can't make any more than about 300HP at the flywheel, if you have a std turbo you would be making less than 300HP at the flywheel. No one cares if you wheel spin your way to ordinary times, its alot of fun to do and hey learning is something you can only do at the track. The more practice the better you get. 225's are good its 2inches more rubber than I have, worth giving it a shot. let them down to 19psi when you go to the creek. Have fun!

No Rob not you mate, sorry thought you were asking about the turbo.

Just wait till you get owned by my Volvo wagon... I shall send you all to Valhalla! Ha ha ha! All I need now is my thermal underwear and viking helmet with the horns.

You need between 350 and 400HP at the flywheel to get the 11's all things being equal. More horsepower makes that task easier all the same, so why not 800HP? Readings at the tyres are not what you ought to interest yourself in. Get components together for an engine power rating. A good ballbearing turbo, airflow rated at 420-450HP should do the trick, then a intercooler of the same rating. Then do everything else that needs doing for that power, to make the motor last.

300HP @ the motor, the flow of the turbo is always rated in engine power. Hence why I don't have alot of time for peoples dyno figure claims when they back-figure them to relate to stupid engine power claims. Fortunately most of the same people can't produce good 1/4 times either.