rev210

The auto is good. It is very weak tho'. The thing will need a strong rebuild, a shift kit of some kind, a larger trans cooler perhaps and a hi-stall built. Alternatively a trimatic like the VL turbo's run would be a much better bet for serious power. The performance rebuild of a trimatic or turbo350 is very cheap, even after the custom install its going to work out cheaper for a tough as nails trans. The dude TRY9, i think it was him, had a trimatic fitted to his RB and was doing 10's with it from memory.

Performance shops don't seem to stock much B&M gear anymore. Maybe cause the distribution is rooted. Even good ol' Chriss Mills acted like I'd insulted his mother when I asked for a Mega-shifter. Or maybe it was because I rocked up in a skyline......

overselection is putting pressure on the shift fork past the gear engagement point. Resting your hand on the gear stick when driving does this as well. The overselection may will wear the weakest part, some gearboxes this is the shift fork others the gear/syncros.

sorry mate wasn't trying to be sarcastic. 20x20 is alot too., 16x16 is plenty for the street. I wouldn't expect so, fuel ecconomy wise. maybe a little (i am assuming you have a pretty good tune already). Fuel ecconomy setting is leaner and can dull the throttle a bit.

maybe a plan b2 is the R34GTT cooler if I can find one for the price of a carton.

oh maybe some of those LED exhaust tips would go well with the lowered car too, and a horn that plays 'la cooka-ratcha' or 'the yellow rose of texas' or maybe one more modern like your favorite kyle hit... Well since we are on the topic of modifcations that are opposite to performance, what about putting in an NA motor and buying an electronic blow-off valve too. My dream is to have a fiberglass skyline shell kit to bolt over the top of hyundai excel sprints, imagine how much money you would make!

nothing looks meaner than a 'chopped' roof car, let me tell ya...

the bit of pipe that comes directly off the turbo, though some people call that the dump pipe (you don't use it as a toilet tho') and the pipe from the dump pipe to the cat these people call the 'front pipe'.

First you need at about $100 and the location of your nearest redlight district.

Why don't you 'chop' the roof on your line' to make it even lower and put seats in that sit on the floor like the hot rod boys. can be done very proffesionally and has been done for many a year. Otherwise you look like every joe. Hey how about an overlander shock and spring kit for your GTR, now that would be cool (on someone elses car --- hey Miko!)

you will be able to see into the future and bend spoons.

I'm organising the sabotuers as we speak.

I think I vote this mod the oldest of skyline wives tales.

for fault fixing in closed loop, good.Sometimes restores rough idle. Does nothing at all to the fuel or ignition map, so no power gains there.

looks like I'm the under-dog then. Against the high flow turbo giants.

Want your sidewalls to be straight without any radial roll? Ah.. I see you want it to 'look good';) say no-more!

I'm in for the smack-down! I see Killer-T is the true under-dog with only a 13.6 to his name, bring out the chairs!

Why doesn't someone sticky a thread listing 'ALL' the tuners in metro perth who have a dyno and write next to them whether they stock parts, tune this or that ecu, do fabrication etc... that way no one can start another thread for GTSt-vspec to whore on.

R34GTT is what I'm after, it's a little different to the R33 gtst one. A tad thicker, so I thought I'd give it a try since they bolt up exactly the same way.

push clutch in, put into N, let clutch out, push clutch in, put in next gear, let clutch out. Blip throttle to match revs between.

More than your PFC. 1024 map points at least from memory.

Anyone got one of these on the scrap heap that I can tax?

If you get wheel hop after doing a mod, where before you had wheel spin, you are on the right track. Stiffer rear suspension will sort it out often.

Do the math. How many mm to one inch? Match tyre width to rim width give or take 1 inch max, for handling.

I'd reccomend 10psi, maybe 12. If you want the turbo to last. people run 14psi, with FMIC's, due to the pressure drop being only a couple of psi at this level, where as the stock cooler runs out of legs at this boost. Bleed valves suck (although I have one). An EBC will hold boost and prevent the 'spike' associated with bleeders. Boost will be brought on faster and hold (meaning faster accelleration --- something that a dyno won't pickup). If you intend sticking with the stock turbo and are not a regular visitor to the race track, put your money back in your pocket and don't buy the FMIC, unless you get one that only just flows say 300HP or just under. A cooler of this size will retain the valuable response and if designed well will allow a few extra psi without a serious pressure drop. When shopping for an interccoler reccomendation ask : " So how much horsepower can this intercooler you are reccomending flow?" They answer " Mate this one is good for over 500HP! just what you need mate!" You respond " No thanks. Which intercooler can flow upto 300HP max with some efficiency, cause thats all I am planning on making with this engine?" Ditto for head porting, turbo sizing, camshaft selection, throttle body size etc.....