rev210

yeah, I think there is that to consider also. I have to peg back the timing no doubt to lean off any further than the -6% 4000rpm peak I am using at hi throttle.

mate, the aftermarket ecu ought to get only a little more top end if any, maybe none when both can supply enough fuel. The big difference is in the mid range power band and engine response. The extra resolution and timing re-curve ought to extend the width and height of the mid range power. What is not seen on the dyno is the effect good tuning can have on resonse time when individual rpm points are targeted. This is why race cars use motec and things. We often look at the race cars oughtright power level but it is super critical to maintain a fast response. One of the reasons super light flywheels are popular. Motec provide enourmous tuning resolution, which is time consuming to utilise but, in a race situation the extra expense is a worthwhile investment. On the street we have larger power bands(not higher), more forgiving to generalised tuning.

Simex for the rear baby yeah! I do mid 13's all day on just 205's . however I don't reccomend anything this small, they are still 205's after all, they are just really good for such little tyres. BTW, don't put them on the front as the sidewalls are spongy and give a little too much radial roll. For the back thats ok, offsets the stupid hicas a little. For the front something that will point the car positively is the go. Simex are fine wet or dry BTW.

The factory ECU can retard the timing upto 15degrees according to what it's knock sensors and airflow signal are telling it. The factory ignition curve shape is basically not altered when you apply more base timing, exept for the fact that you move the curve 'up' by as much extra advance as you apply at the base. To be honest I am pretty sure I run betweed 30 and 35degrees advance as the point is set one or two markers worth of degrees past the very last marker on the crank. This gives me at least 15 degrees of extra advance no matter what the factory idiot box does.

ken, was built in sydney in 89,the owner brought it over with the family when he moved. It's just the family car not the drag strip campainer.

gradenko is correct. you need 'just enough' flow, not 'more than enough' flow. By doing the latter you will reduce the response and bottom end performance and ecconomy.

Screamer maybe, because the turbulence is not an issue. The sepparate pipe can cause trouble if it doesn't seal right up against the turbo, you could end up with more turbulence. And wrapping the sepparate kind in thermal tape would just not happen very easy at all.

With tyres, matching the rim width to tyre width is the way to go for handling. 7inch rim is 205, 8inch about 225, 9 is 245 10 is 255.

twin dump pipe? Have you got two turbos or do you mean a pipe for the turbine and one for the wastegate? (this type I don't reccomend for the stock turbo). The de-cat pipe is a great idea, and so is a flame thrower pipe to attach,

Plan A complete. Plan B underway: Negun is supplying HKS exhaust cam gear in about 14days.

It has a beefed up LSD diff as well, for doing shopping center burnouts, by accident of course.

gradenko, It's a turbo 350 auto. The missus likes it, she likes driving the line too. The kids think it is funny because the lumpy idle rocks the car when its stationary.

I think you will be pretty safe the volvo weighs alot. It would be lucky to get a 14 right now.

It's worked . 308 --- forged flat top pistons, forged L34 rods/bolts, roller rockers, mild port head, double vavle springs, mellings pump etc... Mild cam, electronic ignition. Drives nice, plenty of pickup. I might give the guys at BRE a call sometime to get it dyno tuned/ carby setup and re-graph of distributor.

I looked under volvo wagon in the classifieds. There it was. I had a laughing fit, rang the guy and fought hard not to crack up, then l saw the thing and heard it running and again started laughing. I just look out the window now every morning to start the day with a smirk.

All cats are 'low-flow'. Like I said a Hi-flow cat is an oxymoron, like military intelligence when applied to bombing Canadians.

the motor

here is volvo with danska cream V8 motor

tune on the road. You can hear pinging, back it off. After setting a decent amount of timing, monitor the plugs for overheating. (blistering) over the next few days/week. If it is present drop to a colder range and start with an increased gap of say 1.1mm and lower the gap if needed. I run a 0.75mm gap on ngk copper 6's, soon to change back over to my Autolite racing plugs, 7 range, with larger gap. But I have a S-afc.

With timing, it either is pinging or it isn't. You get plenty of warning when you have too much timing before things start going pear shapped with the motor. plugs and pinging tell you all you need , plus I have a knock sensor read out. The turbo on the other hand just lets go without warning.

just watch out for over selection. If you double the clutch you should have a ball without syncro damage.

screamers are loud enough to have the police on your back

It's not a garret T28.Does not have any garret parts and it does not have a T28 flange. It's a hitachi, with a T3 flange. T3's will fit as will t3/4 hybrids. It is ballbearing, it has a ceramic wheel, it will break if boosted too much (14psi +)

no thats the icbfmic inter-continetal-ballistic-front-mount-inter-cooler. Speedworks are not able to handle these as yet but they are negotiating through JUN (who they are agents for) to buy these from Iraq and North korea. In fact speedworks can source many things through JUN first, like opiates and firearms.

You are right. the figures don't mean much except the relative change in power. The outright figure I couldn't care much about, but the magnitude of the change is always worth a look. The mods in both cases yielded an increase in power, thats good. However people ought not to get hung up on expecting the same power output, or power increase for the same mods on a different dyno on a different day.