rev210

I don't run higher than 10psi so my turbo doesn't go prematurely on me, it's my work car. I could run 14psi, when I'm ready to swap the turbo to something a little bigger.

red17, No I was complimenting them on providing a 'value added' service. Why would you go else where? I'm saving up for my round the world inter-continental-cooler right now!

single is cheaper, two pipe easy to fit if doing yourself (but adds another place where leaks can occur).

for both in stainless about $400 fitted.

put your money back in your pocket with the high flow cat, it is as they say an oxymoron. Mine is not a high flow and I saved a few $$ I only replaced my stock one cause it was knackered and I broke the flange bolts off it doing the gearbox/clutch reinstall.

keep the pipe from the ic back to the plenum as short as possible , that means you have to buy an aftermarket plenum (joke). The hot pipe (turbo to ic) should be thermal wrapped and again as short as possible. Don't worry about trying to cool of intercooler pipes or anything, they don't tranfer heat efficiently, that is the intercoolers job. Keep them from getting hot in the first place or if they are hot ,like the turbo to ic one, trap the heat in the pipe for extra gas velocity and reduce any radiated heat. remember : the shortest pipes possible, the ic to plenum ought to be the shortest if you have to make a choice.

about $400 for Quickfit in Morley to do mine turbo to cat hand fabricated stainless steel 3 inch. Don't go the sepparate wastegate pipe unless you want a screamer(cop bait - yellow sticker).

you can have some increases in rear shock/spring rate, as long as the front is left fairly stock (small increases will be ok). If you are really keen on drag racing you can get a 90/10 shock setup on the front, pretty crap for going around corners but excellent to tranfer power to the back wheels. Lowering the car is ok as well as long as you don't lower much more than 1inch.

reaction time does not count against your 1/4 time. It just means you are more likely to lose. I think the hks gear is fairly accurate, I hit someone in the head with the turbo timer from a distance of 30m in strong winds!

Man if you can tune multiple webbers you won't have any problems with this sucker. I dig up my manual again, i've made notes in it. That should help. Your NOR, where abouts? I live up Yokine way myself.

turbomad, agree with you on the lag, I think you miss the point I am making (my fault , I don't state things clearly very often). The turbo will still produce boost at such and such rpm. How long does it take to get to that rpm, well thats where extra pipe work don't do you favours. Drag strips are fairly accurate mate, after all it is a bona-fide sport . Unlike dyno printouts, where there are no officials and not a great deal of specators. Then again with the interest 'import' drivers have on dyno results perhaps we could make a sport out of it too. The mph thing is like this ; gearing and traction can make the requirements for a higher mph less significant, try a 360ci V8 charger doing 13flat with a 100mph terminal. Or a 98mph 13.4 with a GTiR (4wd). Mph is significant when looking at a standardised gearing set and tyre setup, like a stock skyline ( diff and gearbox) running road tyres.

Very very easy. Install took me less than 2hrs. Like me you are probably staring at a jap instruction manual. I deciphered mine by guesstimation and an old s-afc manual in english. I have just road tuned mine. plenty of extra zing! You are welcome to try the settings I have and modify them to suit, I spent a few hrs sorting it so they should at least cut down the dyno time if you really must.

I reckon buy $5k worth of beer. then your car will always look really good, even if you can't drive it or stand up.

Chriss Mills, is another good place to go for good prices, its a V8 specialist too, but a phone call can secure what your after. Killer T had his engine rebuilt by them, thousands cheaper than any other 'import' specialist mentioned for the same work, and I dare say the quality of the machine work is better. The 'trev' shops, if you can put up with yobbo's, have very good pricing deals with the distributors and manufacturers.

All I am suggesting is that the stock turbo can not flow 320HP worth of air on the skyline motor as is. This is a real 320HP at the motor. That is quite alot of power in my books. I'd just like people to understand that the rear wheel dyno is for 'tuning' and is not a cross-comparable power/accelleration evaluator to bench mark every skyline on. However as I said before I am fine with being wrong on this one. The dyno is a 'bragging' tool for sure... just doesn't mean much when you get your ass handed to you by someone who has 'less rear wheel horsepower' in the same weight car. Good you have 200rwkw! Care factor for me... 0% Wow you gained 30rwkw, though a mod on the same dyno & day! Care factor...80% It's all relative so lets just race! :D

BYBY, perhaps I think people have inflated views of dyno readouts. Thats all mate. I just think 310HP is a little more than the stock turbo can flow.

speedworks take the time to send all your performance parts on a round the world trip before they install them in your car. That way you get a more cosmopolitan look to your cars performance.

BYBY, show me an 'engine' dyno of the stock (unmodified) turbo making 310HP and I'll give you the points. 310HP or so in an R33 is mid 12 1/4mile, I don't think so. Unless you can show me a 12.5 sec stock turbo'd R33, don't care if its got slicks or runs on rocket fuel BTW. Once again I'll give you the points if you can.

I should add the beatings occur on 'standing' and 'rolling' runs with said other skyines with stock turbos and fmic's. My advice if you have a fmic and a stock turbo is : run 1.5bar through the stockie and have some (brief) fun, then replace it with a turbo that is propperly matched to the horsepower flow of the intercooler. It's just like porting the heads, port to big for a little cam and carby and things don't work all that well in the response department. I'd say there are lots of people running fmic designed to flow over 450HP! that is not a huge intercooler BTW, but boy is there a difference between 300HP and 450HP in air flow. For a front mount to work well, and I think they possibly can on a stock turbo, you need one that juuust flows well enough to 300HP or maybe a snick under.

In the interest of science, I'll keep going to the drag strip. Then the intercooler people can do likewise (as they already have anyway) and we can see who has the quicker time. That sounds pretty easy I reckon. I have 'hosed' quite a number of the fmic brigade on the street to back up my time (on private roads), so it's not just a drag strip phenomina.

J, thats more hassle than I can be bothered with(its true I am very slack), besides the fact that if I use a stop watch, well we all know how accurate they are. 'People' should go to the drag strip, I wouldn't want them losing their licences on my account.

BYBY, I am taking 200+rwkw to be about 310HP at the flywheel. I dont think the stock turbo can move this much air at 1bar. At least why would you go a 2530 for a power increase when they are rated at about 310/20 HP?

c to d is 4th gear.

J, good idea. You can use the 330ft to 660ft and 1000ft time differences on the 1/4 mile time slip. For instance on the 13.4 run --- a) 330ft = 5.74sec B) 660ft = 8.74sec c) 1000ft = 11.3 sec d) 400m = 13.4sec b to c takes 2.56 sec, thats probably 3rd gear, but people can make a few comparisons there if they like.

thats why I have purchased a volvo as a diguise . No one will ever think to steal it, except maybe for ram raids.