rev210

should go half way there max. thats factory boost 7/8psi baby yeah! (the guage may not be that accurate either).

2rismo, fair enough mate. I think hasty generalisations are not fair too. I think I could have qualifed my statement a little. R33 GTST's: *Run the standard turbo? Don't expect the aftermarket BOV to help performance. *Run an aftermarket intercooler and standard turbo? 'As above'. The extra air is far from pushing the std BOV's abillity on an R33. Test it yourself using a g-meter, I would glady bet you a beer that no aftermarket BOV will do anything but put the accelleration backwards and at best not change it. *Have a serious T88 34D pushing 2bar? Go buy an aftermarket BOV that can take it. I really have no 'beef' with properly applied aftermarket BOV's, it's just that application on an RB25DET is not often till you reach beyond 500HP @ motor. know of one with 509PS with the standard valve intact HKS intercooler and a GT30 turbo with lovely on/off throttle response.

Funny that. I've beaten a stockish GTiR, twice convicingly (exhaust/filter boost). They get the first 60ft by a nose and then I stomped on them. But who really cares my car is no speed freak and neither is 99% of the GTiR's driving around. Have yet to have the honour of losing to one. Maybe you can have the first honour by statistically beating me, go down to calder or whatever and spank the skylines.

GTiR's are cool little cars. Just right for your girlfriend and her shopping. They are quick for what they are. Quite easy to get into 13's with them, not so easy to get them into 12's (without breakage). Ultimately they are of a fairly poor build quality (just like every other pulsar) and the intercooler is a joke. Do some alterations here and there and there is plenty of fun to be had (unless you are over 6ft like me ) Beat an R32GTR? there is nothing a GTiR does better than a GTR performance wise. Things other than performance the GTiR does do better: break down, overheat, fall appart, rust, carry more shopping and pack in a loud stereo. Oh and look like a cheap ass car (nothing worse than getting beaten by a cheap ass looking car). They make an ok rally car (not a good one).

Once again if let the air out of the tyres, what is the diameter? Forget the tyre diameter acting on the final ratio, it won't make you any quicker and it can cause your brain to swell up and hurt.

WDracing runs an alchohol injection kit on his R32, he uses isopropyl as opposed to methanol. A good kit can allow you to run several more psi without detonation. WDracing has run 28psi on the stock block, ecu and fuel system (to4E) a number of times and regularly at over 20psi. Read here: http://forums.skylinesdownunder.co.nz/show...y=&pagenumber=2

the RB25det has two knock sensors. On pistons 1 & 2. Naturally enough I picked piston 1. The sensor just taps into the signal and gives you the reading, its quite sensitive.

Matt, I've already had a play with the s-afc, without the dyno, and I reckon I've got myself another 15+rwhp. I just couldn't help myself. Final ratio wise, you don't get much out of the tyre diameter by dropping the profile by 5. If people think that makes a difference you will be barking up the wrong tree. But if someone knows of a low ratio LSD center that will fit the R33 then tell the world! Steve, Sounds like the stock one was stuffed. Yep the mixtures are doing you no favours, if you want aftermarket then get a s-afc or aftermarket efi management or swap the BOV for one that also vents back into the intake. At the end of the day that BOV you have makes your car slower (without the other things).

Jay95R33, Let me assure you whatever they did to the 1995 ECU, they didn't touch the mixtures or timing graph. The dyno I had done many moons ago showed 189rwhp, I figure I have around 200rwhp at the time of doing 13.4. I feel the dip in power and I've only got 10psi. Whether people do get 190rwkw on a dyno is not worth anything to you and me because dyno's are just a tuning aid. You can have a car that makes 190rwkw and runs like crap because it isn't tuned right and when tuned the same car makes 500rwkw. Means alot to that guy but not to me. 205/50 16's are factory. If I had wider tyres like 225's I would cut an even better time, even if only slightly, that you can bank on. Steve, Aftermarket BOV's do not reduce any lag over stock unless your stock BOV is stuffed, and that does not happen very often when you have less than 20psi of boost. Aftermarket ones actually are rather hard to set up to work properly. For one if you have a factory computer you can expect to be slowed down by mixture problems, as if the map wasn't rich enough already. But hey if you like the 'rice-boy-cop-bait sound' knock yourself out(jokes), just don't think for a minute you have done the performance side any favours.If your stock BOV does stuff up...go buy another one.

I do it by the old 'drive-feel' way using the knock readout. It's rough but after a while I expect the dyno tune will only get me another 5-10rwhp using the a/f meter,and if it gets me more well I'll be very happy anyway.

nismogtsx, My carbon canister looks connected, and is at the fuel tank end, the manifold leak..er pipe side I have blocked and rejoined the pipes so they look factory. smallish open (to canister) holes to your manifold good for performance? Nope!

too much power? Never the problem, sometimes it's a solution in itself, keep throwing horsepower at it till you get the time you want. Know of a few cars that spun the tyres non-stop down the track and done low 11's (sure they would have got low 10's if they got traction but what a great burnout!) I'll give you an opinion on your car's setup. Here goes... You have a great efi management in that wolf V4, boost controller, exhaust and an active diff (who wouldn't kill for one). The pipe work is good too....for a big ass GT30 and not tiny tot stock turbo. Throttle body too big etc.. But hey, your doing the big turbo anyway so I think 13.5 is pretty darn good considering the handicap. I think changing from 2nd to 3rd you are falling just outside the ideal power band rev.

the time slip. before I get asked again. http://forums.skylinesdownunder.co.nz/atta...=&postid=189495

Ok, I started the same sort of thread on the SDU web site but, lets face it this forum is MUCH better. OBJECTIVE : Do mid 13's(possibly lower) all day with the standard ecu, intercooler and turbo retained on your R33 gtst. I used: A 1995 manual R33 gtst with 93k on the clock. With the following Modifications: * K&N panel filter inside stock airbox * 3inch FGK cat-back exhaust (very quiet and probably more restrictive than some exhausts) * 3 inch stainless dump pipe off the turbo 'wrapped' with DEI thermal tape to the cat. This dump does not have a sepparate wastegate screamer or feed pipe. * Diff Cradle kit or 'pineapples' , the Whiteline kit No. KCA349. * Ogura Lightwieght flywheel 4.8kgs. * Ceramic puck sprung clutch and stock pressure plate * Wrapped turbo to intercooler pipe (DEI thermal tape). * Removed panel behind stock intercooler. * Timing , see if you can grab a few more degrees over stock. * disable the carbon canister fume feeds to the intake. * Turbo smart bleed valve (cheap one) set to 10psi boost * Simex 205/50 16 inch rear tyres. let them down to 19psi. * NGK coppers ...6ES gapped to 0.7mm. Everything else is stock : turbo, intercooler and ecu blah blah blah... Appart from these modifications there are some don'ts you will find will hamper your attempts to go this quick. DON'T: * Use an aftermarket blow off valve. (sorry rice boys) * Run ultra low profile tyres unless they are wide, 235+ * Run the street inflation in your rear tyres, ie: 36psi. * Run a pod unless you sheild it and route cold air to it. * Change gears like a nanna, don't have to flat change tho' Do this and by all accounts you will get a bunch of mid 13's if you can crack a 2.2 or better launch.

I've had a play with the s-afc II and it seems pretty easy to tune. Without a dyno I have already tuned in some fat-ass power across the rev range, used up a bit of fuel tho'. Richen the bottom end and lean the top end and bingo! The mid range is a little tricky I am quite amazed at the amount of sting the s-afc gets out of the stock motor. I think I'll aim for another 0.4 sec improvement, without toluene, on the good ol' 205's and 10psi.

I'll give HBF a try again. Last time I called them was close to three years ago, they didn't insure imports. They give a discount to members for car insurance.

Damn new business! Who else insures imports cheap?

60% mate. $600 is very good, what is the insured value. Mine was $25k for $1000 but, its a 'work use' thingo. If they come at insuring imports you should see if they give you a bonus for signing up new business.

at least your car isn't bright yellow , that attracts wasps and bee's!

I'm giving the RAC the arse. I pay around $1,000 a year for my 1995 gtst, a good price but, if I can get close somewhere else I'm going! Who is the kick arse insurer to sign with?

I have a full exhaust. The front pipe and dump where made up by quick fit, no sepparate wastegate pipe. The rest of the exhaust is FGK (fitsubo giken) Super Ti series? very quiet (more quiet than stock at low rpm). If you want to do the exhaust in bits to save money you could just replace the front muffler (get a straight through hot dog, not stainless about $100) and do the dump pipe ($400 max I paid for mine). you can get the rear stainless muffler later (for show) and do the 3 inch pipe work between them later on. you will still spend close to $1000 but in bits.

Good work! I expect you will be moving on to 12's soon? Gotta be quicker than Macka, you don't weigh as much.

I use quickfit exhaust in morley.

7 or 8's have some 9/10's for the races (change them at the meet).

in a little while, I got bucket loads of office crap to do before I can get out on the street.