rev210

yeah, my stash man:cool:

I really think you should know how to adjust the timing on the fly. This is something fundamental that everyone should be getting their hands dirty with. When I go to the drags I take my timing light along and do a check before I start. With wear on the timing belt and things the cas position may have to be changed slightly to get the same timing over a period. The marking on the cas is only a guide, ALL timing should be set using the gun based on the reading you have off the crank markings. And timing ought to be set properly on the road. You can adjust it according to conditions of temperature as well. As for knowing so much: The more I learn the more I realise I don't know very much. I get some insight for all the wasted years building cars with my mates (some for racing) and taking kilometres of skin off my knuckles. I think there is no substitute for 'hands on' both for making you hate yourself for ever touching a spanner and understanding how things really don't work.

...and it changes the time the news comes on. ...and the time that you walk the dog.

yeah you want the % to be a little higher. If you are a scaredy cat then start with 10%, I don't think that will make anything 'feel' different but, it will allow a snick more timing. After you have tried 10% then get 25% or 30% in there and you should 'feel' something, you can advance the timing a bit (obviously not too much cause it will ping). I advance mine till I just start to get a ping then back it off a little.

welcome to the skyline crew. The exhaust is a good mod and will improve the economy, helps you save for other ones.

Ask tuner's who have used toluene you mean. There are plenty of them that talk out of thier asses, even the good ones. Make sure the tuners don't sell VP103 or Elf either otherwise you might find them a little bias. Then again you can try a litre or two from Makit hardware at 10% or so and see what you reckon

No I'd like to see you adjust the timing even if you just move it back to where it was. So you know how to do it. The sensor you rotate is located on the cam pulley cover and is attached by 3 x 10mm bolts, loosen them but don't take them off. This is so you can rotate the sensor to adjust the timing. So its easy: 1) plug the timing gun in and note the timing, return it to this when you are done. 2) turn off and loosen the bolts so you can turn the sensor 3) fire up and obsever the timing and the changes in the idle as you advance and retard the timing. 4) set back to original spot and tighten up the bolts.

You wish! Toluene is much less volitile than VP103, the formula 1 cars had the fuel tanks heated by the exhaust to get the stuff to burn propperly. If anything running too much toluene will prevent your car from starting and your engine won't be able to combust it, ie: unburnt fuel the opposite of ping. I disagree because I've used them both. I pick toluene for cheapness and better power. VP103? Go kiss it in a tree!

dude, this is a good place to learn about tuning your car. The timing light is a good thing to have and to use. As the timing can move slowly over time due to wear its good even to just do a check every now and then. Someone just needs to show you where the wire is... hang on a bit and I'll take a pic for you.

Let me assure you that the 'correct mix' of toluene can be higher than the suggested 100 RON without detriment.I'd suggest anything upto 40% or so can be tried.The higher mix will have low rpm and cold start issues but in small volumes for the race day will work out well if you tune the car for it. The horse power generated by the toluene is higher besides, it's a very high engery fuel. For interest I have run a 30/35% mix , with no adjustments and no problems. VP103 is not bad compared to the old AVgas, it makes a bit more power and is unleaded. We can agree to disagree on which fuel to use. I will just keep handing you your ass with my much less modified car (hee hee..ho ..ho..)

Toluene is 122 RON / MON 106. RACE FUEL not RICE Fuel. Toluene was used during the 'turbo era' of formula 1. Back when they were running 5bars(73psi) of boost in qualiying and 4bars(59psi) in race. The fuels were limited to 102 RON so 84% toluene and 16%n-heptane (has no octane rating to bring it back to 102). Making 1500HP out of little tiny engines.... ooooright! 102 octane and 73psi? the funny thing is the octane rating of toluene is only half the reason its a bloody good race fuel. VP103 just a compromise fuel. Formula one racing teams know it, now you do too.

Don't know about the ticket thing yet. I got to have dinner with the stones brothers team, Russel Ingal and the Ambrose boy on our table. I think Russel was impressed at the level of yahoo pissheads on our table chanting 'Russel! ...Russel!' Got to see his new BA falcon car, sit in it, try to look in the engine bay, spilt beer on it, tried to cut the cable ties that restrained the pedals and got the guys to sign my name tag so I can forge their signatures later and get into the pits if the chanting doesn't work.

If you need to get an aftermarket intercooler then make the pipes as short as you can. If that means a plenum change, then if you have the cash go do it. Provided the throttle body size is kept stockish it should provide good throttle response and a nice fat power band. The RB26 plenum won't fit straight up. It requires extensive machining. On top of that the multiple throttle body design is a son of a bitch to get right again if the linkages are moved and have not been marked.

nope ,I've only just got back from a conference on the gold coast. We have scored the major sponsorship for Indy Car for the next three years, Whoo hoo! It's going to be the 'Lexmark Indy 300' from now on.

yes the bleeder does suck! I'd love to buy an ebc, right now don't have any cash like the rest of the world.

yeah, I think they are $375. http://www.nengun.siteblast.com/gallerymor...&galleryid=4590

With the short shift kits , the problem is gear over-selection. It's the same issue with people who rest their hand on the gearstick when driving. A sure fire way of wearing out the syncros earlier

RB20lagwagon: yep they got in plenty more containers after I let the cat out the bag. There are 1s and 4s there right now.

Macka: dude most stores DON'T have it, I should know I've looked in just about all of them. Makit Hardware in Balcatta next to marlows balcatta. bout $24 for the 4L tin. Compares nicely with the cost of VP 103 for smaller volumes and craps on it for octane and energy value, it's just not as 'green'. It's well worth a try I have a litre in the fuel at the moment (20% mix) and it gives a good old kick. I'm sure you will like the extra timing Macka.

Dyno's are a tuning device. Go to the same one each time when tuning to determine the relative change in power. Preferabley the readigns are done on the same day as the changes made. Please people get over it.

20% or so is all that will be necessary. 4L in 20L of fuel is quite an eye opener. I suggest you try it. I think I'll buy some nice rims and tyres before the fmic, after all both those mods are about looks more than anything :lol: I ran around 10psi last time, on the 13.4 run. Thats what I consider to be 'full' boost.

We will see. I might use some toluene next time.

one tune on the s-afc and I'm there....well I thought I'd be there before but, I was not. I just want to beat "the D" and take away the shame. .Oh and that bloody yellow R34 that got a 13.3 I want to be beating him too.

stock turbo? Going circuit racing regularly? If the answers are 'yes' and 'no' save your coin for something else, the stock cooler is fine. If you must have a cooler for no other reason than everyone else has one, then get a small one that flows very slightly more than your peak power goal, with some efficiency. If you want accelleration there are other things you can do.

same driver in them: Silvia's waste skylines over the 1/4 -- power to weight. Hungry 6 : Rhino's 'boosted' only R32 GTR ran a 12.4 at the plex the other night. VF22 equiped WRX's would have troubles getting that close, let alone high 11's like a number of R32 GTR's are capable of with 1 bar and cam gears.