rev210

differences: 12 vs 8 tuning rpm points 200rpm increments and fill resolution Vs 500 rpm Knock sensor input Maintains more stable signal voltage Security lock feature Stores 2 different settings Toggle joystick Vs buttons Smaller case same size screen More display parrameters Has 30 sec data log replay mode.

Gtst-vspec, See you there, it looks like it might be a little cooler tonight, have to see how much humidity we get also. Your running a haltech right? I used to play with those back in the F7B days, so easy to tune. The factory map is much the same for everyone if they have the same computer, the differences in car mods have an impact but, the same shape of correction curve is used to extract more power. I don't want to re-invent the wheel I guess and I strongly suspect that those with a good S-afc tune all have a similar graph. We don't know for sure because no one has ever posted a log of settings for others to compare. On something common and simple like a S-afc having a little archive would be great to help people come at the concept as well as help us driveway and road tuners save time.

yeah its called the S-afc II on the controller and box, but its the third release model. The first being the one with 'dials' and no blue screen. The second the blue screen, this one blue screen with no buttons just a playstation anolgue style joystick and jog dial.

I'm probably going to have a hole in my glovebox for my new A'pexi S-AFC II, and leave it in there. Depends how effected by rice disease I am.

Gts-Vspec. If people can give some of their settings for the S-AFC on the RB25det with stock turbo , I'll get an idea of the curve to use and I'll do a bit of tuning at the drags tonight. The knock sensor input is great, I used it to look at timing last night its very helpful(and sensitive) and I'd say with the data log (all 30sec of it) you could do a half decent job of road tuning.

Well I got my New A'pexi S-AFC II yesterday and after only 2hours it was in and running (no thanks to a completely japanese manual). I was wondering if those guys out there with the Apexi S-afc hooked up to the factory ECU and running a factory turbo would like to share thier S-afc settings with me so I can get mine going a little better.(R33 RB25DET). Details include the Hi/Lo throttle % The Rev point and mixture + or - on low throttle. The Rev point and mixture + or - on High throttle. I don't mind if you have different mods to me (more or less) I am just getting an idea of the curve people are using to offset the factory one. With the knock sensor feature I will have a good shot at tuning quicker this way. Cheer's

Quite a bit more tuning resolution, 12 vs 8 points and increments of 200rpm vs 500rpm. It has one more wire for the knock sensor input. Handy for tuning without the dyno. It took me just under 2hrs to install and get running, these things are too easy:D I might have to copy someones low and high throttle mixture settings to have a better play. Hicks, can you tell me what you have for the low and high ranges, also the percentage throttle for low and high. I have followed the jap manual's reccomendations about a setting to try, it's a little better perhaps (hard to tell driving around the suburbs) but I don't think it's all that flash. I'll leave the settings on '0' for the drags tommorow and have a muck around while I'm there.

Barry eh? I might give this guy a go. I've just recieved the new S-AFC 2 this afternoon, I hope he can read japanese:D

You tend to find 'worked' cars run a larger amount of advance in the bottom rpm range and less advance in the top end. When I say less I mean less than a stockie motor, with more boost and and higher cylinder pressures there is less encouragement needed to start combustion at the right time for best power.

Oil based filters are only a problem if you over oil them. Filtration is better than more flow, especially when you are talking a difference of a flea's fart in flow and resulting power.

The basic rule of thumb with ignition is: Base timing --- advanced, more if you run a lumpy cam or have poor cumbustion down low. Top end timing --- Retards as load increases and combustion mixtures become leaner or more prone to detonate easily. As if my car wanted to prove a point I got a little bit of pinging today, I suspect it was the last lot of fuel I put in was a tad dodgy. 30deg advance means that when the ecu decides to penalise you for too much air flow you have beat it to the punch. Thats the therory I have worked on and it seams to be right. However I am open to what others have to say.

Happy Birthday , recover well from saturday?

Who am I kidding? I may as well say I'm going to be 30 this year.

Looks like I'll get there this time, even if I have to cart all the stuff from work again I'll be racing!

At present I have probably about 30degrees advance or so. I tuned my timing 'on the road', boost set to 10psi (spikes to 12 every now and then). Doctor: I agree with the plug thing, going to 6's is a hotter plug, less suited to high revs and boost than a 7 or 8. But, its the range I am using with a gap of 0.75mm. If you can be bothered an '8' range plug just for the races is a good idea if you can be stuffed changing them before you go home (i can't).

The design of the air feed into the cold air box can have an effect on throttle response when moving at speed. The stock design takes air from an ideal pressure zone at the lip of the bonnet. When moving this enables a bit of air 'ramming', something alot of cold air partitions don't have, but race cars do. The pod filter does not provide any greater torque than an aftermarket panel, and without a cold air partition it is guarenteed to make less,the 'placebo' throttle response is the only thing improved if adding the pod without a partition.

Was wondering what people out there are running as base timing? I have played around with the timing a bit and done a few 'other' things to allow me to run about 5deg more advance than the very last marker on the crank.

Anthony is a crazy SOB:D I'm sure he's going to build a motor that reflects his driving personality.Should be an animal:D

stock air box is ok. The Mine's guys use it on their GTR's, with a little better ducting and an aftermarket panel element.Their GTR is around 700HP. I have the factory unit with a K&N filter, it's not too bad. Comparing the best with the worst (factory paper filter) all you are going to get is 4rwhp if you are lucky. Put the spare $200 you save on the K&N panel over the pod / custom box and put it into something else. Unless you like the induction noise that is.

No - idle problems. smooth as stock. No - gear change problems, shifts easier/quicker No - loss of revs between gears, not noticable due to faster shifts. Revs quicker Boosts quicker Goes quicker

Did he end up with the exhaust on 4 degrees retarded, like every other RB?

Nothing wrong with negotiation. $24k is on the top end of the scale. They are many a $18-$19k poo barge driving around tho'. Drive as many as you can to give you a feel for the car and like I said get them looked over and measured.

Modifing for safety! Now theres a topic we don't see every day. Look for a thread titled 'how to volvo-ise your R33' HPI aren't maybe the best people to go to for a 'safe' mod guide, given the R34 project that they killed the stock turbo on, by setting the boost too high on the AVCR (you would think since it was a relatively new R34 they would be more carefull). I'd say starting a thread with an outline of your budget and performance desires would be a good start.

Stock is 9.8kgs on an R33 RB25det. Most aftermarket ones are 6/7kgs or under. The Ogura I have is 4.8kgs. Structurally the chrome molly units are 200% stronger than an un-lightened stock unit and with less intertia they spool your turbo like a bastard!

There will now be a period of silence for the R33 owners....