rev210

The R32 GTST is at least the lightest of the bunch so it's not hard at all by comparison to get them going real quick. Works Auto, good luck with giving the R33 boys hell next week. Nothing better than beating them at the plex for hanging the crap on you. Bring on the grudge match racing.

No, its not saying anything really. The weight of the car and the power generated by the engine is what matters. The RB20 can produce some good power, damn shame the gearbox they put with the R32 is easily broken. Makes you wish you owned a gtr.

Blackness, 'Feel' is not always a very good comparison. I'd be inclined to measure. The extra $2000 to $5000 is what you end up paying to fix the 'cheaper car' down the track. Buying the extra performance gear with spare change is tempting isn't it. But consider this: I have a car that has had very little done to it, no PFC no FMIC no ECU upgrade and conservative 10psi of boost. It is equal to or even faster than some with these improvements. All I can say is I expect to go faster still when and if I add these things down the track. So you can end up buying all these lovely expensive mods just to end up the same speed as the better condition stockie. Forget what I said however if you just want the bragging rights to say my car has this that and the other mod dispite it not being able to crack a 13sec 1/4.

If the engine has good compression and if the car is well serviced, not just engine but gearbox and diff, on a regular basis it is well worth the extra $$$. Ever wonder why there are always theads about fuel ecconomy and people have these enormous differences on the same basic vehicle. Wonder why some less modified cars are faster, and on dyno days produce more power than more modified vehicles. I looked at many a skyline in Perth before settling with mine. At the time there was a range of prices from 19k to 28k. Plenty of these cars were less than healthy, though to someone not familiar with what a good skyline should be like they all would seem like beasts. Jap cars that have 'low Kms' are not victims of speedo tampering for the most part. It's not the kms you have to worry about it's the fact that these vehicles spend a great deal of time just idling and being driven 'start -stop' carbon glazing the bores nicely.

Both are mortal engines and are a fair whack weaker than the RB26DETT. That does it! I'm going out to get a stock RB20DET tomorrow and replace my weak handgrenade RB25DET, right after I fill my boot with wet cement and get those cast lead doors and bonnet made up. 240rwhp isn't bad for an RB20det, does it do the high 12 to confirm the power, shouldn't be a problem if its in an R32 given the power to weight, it should net that time without blinking on street tyres.

You could have your own bonnet vented fairly cheaply I'd imagine. Then again for $1000 a carbon one from UAS is hard to beat. Proper all carbon fibre bonnets from Jap land can cost $4k+. Have you upgraded the radiator? Make sure the water pump is not too old, most have been replaced when the timing belt is done at 100,000kms. The water pump can cavitate the water at high rpms as well, running a slightly under driven pulley kit like the one trust do would be an idea as well if the car is going to the track a fair bit.

Merli, I think we agree. mrhyundi want's to go the low 13's as a goal if I hear him right. If he gets a front mount he's going to spend as much as a NOS kit and still not be much closer. If he gets a Nitrous kit theres no reason he can't add a bigger turbo later, along with all the other stuff you have to buy ( injectors, fuel pump, aftermarket ecu, reg, etc). In the mean time he will have a nitrous equiped car that does 12's to have fun with, until he has enough money to get the rest.

What are the specs on the T3/4?

Lots of opinions on Nitrous here, thats good. The facts about nitrous oxide are covered on the Ozrace website on the FAQ link, have a read. http://www.ozrace.com/ozrace.html The use of Nitrous oxide on the road is deemed illegal due to the fact that you will obviously be speeding when it is used. The states where nitrous installation is legal require an issolation switch to be installed (most kits have one anyway). As for nitrous being the last mod on your list: Horses for courses, the small nitrous kits are the best value performance booster for the strip on a mild skyline. Using it on the street? well, using the full boost of a bad ass turbo is going to be illegal too. mrhyundai: Give Chriss Mills a call mate, they do nitrous installs in their sleep. You don't 'need' a front mount intercooler or an S-afc or even big ass tyres to get a 13.8 or even slightly better. I plan on not having these things and hopefully getting a flat 13 (thats without any nitrous and regular fuel).

200sx beating a skyline is nothing amazing. With just more boost they go very well. The exhaust could be aftermarket just not stupidly loud. My exhaust is close to stock quietness for instance and still flows well. There doesn't need to be much done to get the 200sx to get a low 13.

I've seen a few cheaters in WA. Mounted in the (fake) subwoofer box etc. The lines can be run underneath manifolds and intake parts with a bit of a fiddle and using good old polution hose is a common disguise.

You use nitrous at wide open throttle (there is a switch under the potato masher). With nitrous you will shift the peak redline down 500-1000rpm, you will have a very large increase in Torque. What wins races? Torque wins races. A sub $2000 nitrous system will improve your cars accelleration more than a $2000 turbo setup, the benifits of nitrous read more than the HP jet rating. For one thing you don't require the bigger injectors / aftermarket ecu / blah blah that a largere turbo requires. You retain good fuel economy and the engine will suffer less wear on a regular basis, oh and theres that torque thing too. The con for the nitrous kit is in WA and Qld it is illegal.

The blanket is a great idea when its a cool day, the pressure drops and reduces the power delivered. The nozzles rated in HP are HP at a certain mean temperature and atmospheric pressure. Also as the bottle empties the pressure falls off, making the blanket a handy idea. The purge valve allows the lines to be purged, providing a solid 'hit' of the gas as soon as its on. Without the purge kit there is a 'softness' by comparision. How worked your engine is doesn't effect the purchase of either of these items, neither does the size of the nitrous hit. A sh*tload of nitrous for a mini is 50HP and it would benifit with these additional items. Don't just take my word for it ask the companies who produce the kits.

The pod might be something to try if I get a requirement for larger airflow. At the levels of power I am making the 800 odd cfm is plenty and less noisy. Sound effects have a placebo effect on the sensation of speed. If you like the sound thats all well and good, is it actually making more power as a result, maybe...and maybe not if you have an aftermarket panel. Something else to consider is that in the real world, changes to the air intake make bugger all hp gains (maybe 2-3rwhp) on a stock engined skyline.

They are all upwards of $1500AUS installed. NOS and NX are closer to $2000 installed. You can spend more to give the system more response by adding a purge kit and bottle warmer (pressure controlled is best). The OZrace EFI kits don't include the bottle (they have a rental deal or you can buy a bottle) They are around $1000 for the kit minus bottle. http://www.ozrace.com/ozrace.html With nitrous kits its good to shop around, mainly with V8 focused shops (they do nitrous kit installs in their sleep).

I've run an easy 13.8 with the stock airbox, they aren't that bad. Even Mines kept the airbox on their GTRs. Comparisons that are dyno tested have some merit, but then again dyno is not going to produce the airflow conditions on the road so its a little tricky. The pipe from the airflow meter to the turbo is however crappy flowing and replacing it with a nice metal one is a good idea. I have yet to do this.

Good idea. *50 to 125Hp 'Wet' system is the best (fuel and nitrous are added through the kit). * you need to ensure your existing fuel pump can supply the addtional fuel the extra horsepower will require. Replace the stock pump with a larger bosch unit. * Do not exeed the 'horsepower' limits of your engine's components by adding too much nitrous or turbo or anything that adds horsepower. This is the sole cause for people dismissing the reliabilllity of nitrous. People need to know when to say 'enough'. Just cause your engine doesn't explode at 100HP jetting doesn't mean you should run 200HP jets just to go faster. The 'EFI' kits offered by NOS, Nitrous Express and OZNOS/RACE are suitable and probably a 50 or 75HP shot will be plenty without any dramas. Some time ago when I inquired with NOS about a kit for a stockish R33 GTST. They recomended the EFI kit, plumbed in before the throttle body, and said that it would conservatively be able to net an improvement of 1 to 1.5sec off the standard 1/4 time of 14.2 at a setting of 75HP on street rubber.

It's scary when you blow a pipe off, does make you think the worst. I blew a vacume hose at the plex last time and I thought it was a dead turbo too. I had a look under the bonnet and found the hose, went out and kept dragging

That sounds right for an aussi retailer. Taka's is the way to go, takes less than a week to get the stuff. Killer-T: Bastard!

It has 12 Vs 8 points of AF setting and can be done in increments of 200rpm vs 500rpm. Making the unit a more accurate than the old S-afc. It has a knock sensor plug in as well.

That limited edition is the 'GT300 champion edition' the only difference is the 'white' display as opposed to blue. This particular varient is 1000 units only, the normal one is not limited. They are the same price.

It works out to about $550AUS on current exchange rates, thats about what people pay for the old one over here. Freight is about $20 and with Taka's you don't pay import tax (they write down a 5,000 yen invoice attracting no duty -- ala my Ogura flywheel)

Have a Look at the new S-AFC II from Apexi. It's quite an improvement on the old unit. http://www.takakaira.com/asp/template.asp?id=815&cat=2

Got to get the fuel reg and big pump if the turbo is much bigger than stock.

The sepparate wastegate pipe design can be a problem on the stock turbo and is not proven to produce any better results. Around $400 in 3inch stainless is what Quick fit exhausts in Morley charged me for the dump pipe to the cat. It's very well made. I wrapped mine in exhaust tape for good measure as well (DEI tape from revolution racegear costs around $100 for the 2inch wide 60ft roll).