rev210

That 'V' is at the mouth of the turbine not the wastegate right? If so, that isn't real good for your top end power and might slow spooling down a tad. If they advertise a dump pipe (showroom style) and you say "I want that one" thats what they should give you. Be diplomatic about it and they might just fix it free of charge. Don't go doing the sepparate wastegate pipe if you redo it they are not as fab as some make out and can cause further problems.

Adam, The malpassi is pretty easy to setup. Have you got a fuel pressure guage yet to go with it? You should get one if you haven't. You can then set a base fuel pressure and hook it all up yourself, drive to the tuner and spend very little time mucking about (less $$$). Whatisname, has the malpassi and similar power. He would have a base pressure close to what you would need. The AFM plug is different on the Z32. Hope you got the Z32 plug with the afm you could use it by slicing into the original afm wires.

Mick, I appreciate that you worked on the car. Forgive me if I am a little skeptical due to the very high terminal speed. I'd love to be able to get that sort of terminal (as would anyone ) with so few mods. I was under the impression that the stock ecu has a crap ignition timing curve. At least one not able to make too much use of the extra boost and octane. Did the car see any dyno around the time of the 12.8 / 113mph ? I'd be interested to know the result. What brand/type of tyre was he running / mixture of tolunene / base idle timing ? He didn't have an aftermarket intercooler did he? I'd love to have a go and prove you right at my own expense.

113mph terminal with only a pod filter, 3inch zorst and 1 bar of boost on a stock turbo? Rrriiiiiiight...... (Quote Dr Evil)

It is availible from whiteline stockists, www.whiteline.com.au

It is a kit that includes a set of six round nolathane bushes, you position 4 of them on the mounting points on the diff cradle. This changes the geometry allowing for better 'squat' when launching which important for increasing traction. They are easy to fit and come with instructions. Takes about 15min.

I'm having a shot at the low/flat 13. If I get there I'll have spent: $400 on exhaust dump pipe and thermal wrap $99 on K&N Panel filter $90 on Turbosmart bleeder $330 on a new ceramic button clutch. $700 on Ogura 4.8kg chrome molly flywheel. $114 on whiteline diff cradle kit (part no. KCA349) YOU MUST BUY THIS FIRST! I got a 13.8 with over 100kgs in the boot and a slipping stock clutch that had done 90,000kms & 205 tyres, only 8psi of boost used and no octane additives or anything fancy. My plugs were gapped at 1.1mm at this time. For my next attempt I might get organised and take the work crap out of the car and I'll be running 10psi of boost. If I am able to get my 60ft down to 2.1/2.0 it should be interesting.

The Auto was not stock. It had been tricked up with a 3000rpm high stall and shift kit. Its best was 13.4 @ willowbank http://www.autospeed.com/A_1050/page1.html Unless you mod the stockie you are not going to get a very reasonable time, slicks or not. Having said that the mods don't need to cost much to get you into a mid/low 13 in street trim should you want to. I'd say if you scored the catback on your import from japan it could cost just a bit over $1000AUS for the mid 13 and just under $2000 for a low to flat 13. Regular 98 fuel and no slicks.

If you go wider than the rim with tyre selection then you generally increase the 'radial roll'. Poor handling due to side wall fex. On the back tyres a little bit might help you get some better launches at the drags. Otherwise stick to 205's for better handling.

I have got a 13.8 sec pass with a mildy modified R33. The conditions were as per the signature below. Namely 8psi ,over 100kgs in the boot + boxes of crap on all the seats and little 205's. Having said all that my car is not stock (ie: it has mods). I don't believe the factory stock car could get past a flat 14 or 13.9 tops. If the stock turbo was taken to 20psi for one run (might take a few turbos before it did a run without blowing up) it might get a mid 13. Quite a pointless excercise. Nissan slacked off on lots of areas from factory. Thus far the only mods to my car have been to correct the cheap ass inefficient parts. All the mods have added something to the power but not effected the fuel ecconomy exept to improve it. Next trip down the 1/4 I'm trying for a flat 13 (with new clutch and light flywheel), big ask for the 205's but it will be fun trying.

They can be made to look rather fetching. Check out the pic. R34 GTR frontend.

http://forums.skylinesaustralia.com/showth...ighlight=stagea You can have both.

Early next year I guess. I've got a challenge with gradenko to see who is the quickest. To un-scientifically test whether you go quicker with a fmic or a lightened flywheel. Might be easy to determine the pulley question if alternators and aircon pumps are the same between models

The new clutch is great. The flywheel is very groovy. I'm going to have a go at a flat 13 with it, that how good it feels.

Looking at a pulley kit from G-reddy for the GTR and was wondering if the altenator, aircon and water pump pulleys are the same on the gtst?

You will probably like to have a remap so you can get the fuel pressure setting right for the duty cycle you want. If you put the rising rate on it will load up the fuel pump more, decreasing its maximum flow volume as the pressure is raised. I say the pump you fitted will do very well all the same with the power you have. 550's take the stain off the pump because you don't need anywhere near as much baseline fuel pressure as the stockies and therefore your fuel pump will live longer, having a lower duty cycle.

I thought the 90mm throttle body caused some bottom end problems (idle at over 1000rpm etc), this could be fixed by machining up some sleaves to fit inside the throttle body to act as a choke sleave does on webber IDA carby's.

Hard to beat $1400AUS tho for the fantastic quality of the g-reddy plenum. Taka's pricing.

Probably get HKS from nengun for $180. I noticed the debate over cam gears and I think the bagging people were giving the HKS gears was bollocks. They use their own gears on their drag cars and I've yet to hear of a propper example of a failure and a reason related to actual design/manufacture (one that makes sense). I'll do this along with the light underdriven front pulley when I do the timing belt.

A little burnout with no brakes is enough, the idea is to get the tyres a little warmer. John is right about doing brake burnouts, street compound tyres generally are designed to provide grip even in cold conditions for safety reasons. On a hot evening the burnout may not be necessary at all, you can use the staging (burnout) area to find out by launching the car there first (just don't go past the marker, they get anoyed if street cars do this). My 13.8 pass and more importantly my best 60ft of 2.1 was with a very small non-brake burnout. In the past with other much faster vehicles I have found this method to work, so I stick to it.

Buy the JUN gear from taka kaira. Then get Chris Mills or southside to build the motor for you. Build just as well cost half as much. Like all good drag motors, things go bang then you know your on the right track for better times:D

It only looks like there are more trevs breaking down cause there are more trevs racing. Per head of population the 'ricers' probably have more breakdowns than anyone. Take my last visit, cooked the clutch and blew off a vacume hose.

Some of the problems with aftermarket BOV's have to do with the spring adjustment. The spring may be a little weak? I my opinion you should turf the aftermarket BOV, on skylines the factory ones are pretty darn good. If you must have a pssht sound then get a hybrid style, that vents back into the intake so as not to upset the factory ecu when it dumps extra fuel in for the air the factory bov vents back into the intake. Aftermarket bov's don't add horsepower (when running like yours your car will be slower),attract the cops and basically suck unless you have a 24psi + boosting turbo that 'might' cause the factory one to leak. Stalling and other such problems are common if you don't have aftermarket fuel management to go with the atmospheric BOV. options: 1)get an s-afc or something. (riceboy) 2) buy a hybrid bov (rice boy) 3) put the factory one back on and sell the bov to a riceboy 4) check the spring adjustment on the bov and live with the stalling.(riceboy)

What sort of gains did you get mate? You still haven't put that cement in the boot yet have you? I told you put the cement in the boot , so do it NOW!

Has anyone done the adjustable exhaust cam gear on their RB25DET? If so what is the adjustment timing wise and can you use the stock ecu if you adjust timing? I've heard somewhere a 4deg retard on the exhaust cam timing works well.