rev210

Cheers:D

Where abouts is it? Cheers

Winge winge winge. I had over 100kgs in my boot of work gear plus the back seat was full of printers and the front seat had a big box of stuff and I had a full tank of juice and my spare wheel and tool kit and I was on crap little 205 tyres and only 8 psi of boost. 14 flat? You better be getting 13s or else you have to do a lap around the pool table.

Strich9ine, You should have enough power there to get into 13's. In its present trim it ought to be faster than mine was when it did the 13.8 245 tyres? man i'd kill to have some of those at the drags. let them down to 19/20psi. That should give a little sidewall flex. Burnout should be a little like the way you want to launch (ie: without the brakes applied). As GTS-t VSPEC suggested the line between bogging down and wheel spin is where you want to be. Slipping the clutch is for cars with more power than yours and mine, instead 'feed' the throttle off the line and during the burnout.

You might not do a 13.3 down the strip but you could possibly do that sort of time on a street surface. The actual 1/4 is quite a bit different to the surface used for magazine and manufacturer 400m claims. I mean 14.2 for a stock R33 skyline, thats definately not measured on a real drag race strip.

At the Drags: I had over a hundred kilo's of brouchures in the boot. Two printers in the back seat and a box of stuff in the front seat. Suprise suprise I actually cleaned out the floor of rubbish. Rob77 witnessed it and I took pictures with my digital camera on the night. It's my work vehicle after all.

At present there are about a dozen empty bottles of 'V' and Lift plus, various chip packets and gum wrappers, print samples and brouchures on the floor. I clean inside car when they reach the passenger knee level. I clean outside the car when all the windows have been obscured by grime,dead bugs and bird poo.

I agree.

Your not the first to suggest this. It's true I am not one for respecting a cars appearance(inside or out)but, mechanically my car is treated better than most.

My car does the dukes of hazard duties, I found out a while back skylines love dirt tracks, must be the hicas. I did 100+ km/h on a floodway/ wet/ pot holed gravel track down south, lots'o'fun:D

Mines the Super Ti (titanium rear muffler) you can buy it from fitsubo themselves, I got mine with the car. It quieter than stock exept for the full throttle revs. http://www.fujitsubo.co.jp/mc-prod/

Go overseas for parts. Nengun and taka kaira's web sites. Is it for the family car pulsar? I think you need an sr20det conversion to start with.

That is about right. The friction disc is $330, fitting $250, pressure plate around $220. or something. I only bought the friction disc. Its definately a ceramic composite friction material. See below pic. http://forums.skylinesaustralia.com/attach...=&postid=100035

yes, you rice boy it goes pssssht.

http://www.radartest.com/3LASJM.html Laser jammer review. Lidatek laser echo is the way to go. $700AUS

http://www.scorpionjammers.com/ScorpionJammer.html The best of the best radar jammers. $1200AUS.

Here's a review of some of the radar jammer products availible. http://www.cnmw.com/jammer.htm

keep the factory airbox its not too bad at all with a K&N inside and an extra hole in the front.

It depends how you drive, how often and how you like the clutch to feel. If you like to drive your car hard then expect to kill the clutch some times and your gearbox and your diff and your fan belts and your brakes and uni joints and center bearings and just about anything else you rely on. Group A cars have the toughest of this, that and the other and they blow stuff up and wear it out at alarming rates. Why should you think any differently? if you do then you just get more upset when things break than you need to.

The stock R33 GTST does a 14.2, not on a real drag strip but then again none of the times for production cars are on real drag strips they are usually on a street type surface. This puts it in the hunt for the "bug-eye's" as new, but then again 4wd and the fact that the RB motor will have done more km's makes the WRX a favorite.

As long as the guy can do the 'tuned length' properly there won't be a problem, it will be sweet mate:D I'd just ask him how he determines the length of each runner, to make sure he's on the level if he tells you its a 'tuned length' unit.

If they shit themselves within a month its probably your fault and you should think about an even tougher clutch or one from another company. I wouldn't give a warranty on anything like that. I mean would you give a warranty to a guy who says " I am going to do my best to kill this clutch anyway I can, so can you give me a warranty mate?". If the clutch guy gives you a warranty he's lost his marbles. He won't know that I am going to do a burnout whilst towing a house on a trailer will he? If you want to go faster than factory you will always break things For the enthusiast you will soon learn it is almost 99.99% of the time your fault for driving the car like it was intended. It's like those people who get race engines built and expect them to last without a rebuild for more than 2 years.

your car isn't stock? What about the bleeder ad exhaust?

I used my dremel cutting tool to cut a hole in the front facing panel. I have the K&N panel replacement filter. Boxhead : it matters a great deal if you are sucking hot air. On the dyno you will see the power drop across the rev range without a cold air partition.

Yes you notice the difference, slightly quicker spool and better vacume at cruise on warm days also. The lightflywheel is fab! Accelleration is much improved as is shifting.No vibration, I plan to ditch the stock front pulley for a lighter underdriven one some time also. Save another kilo or so there too. UAS flogs them now.