rev210

$200 will probably only do the exhaust manifold. $100 for the dump pipe / front pipe. I'm just guessing tho'. Spooling the turbo? Yes indeed. Thats the main reason I did mine. The more you do to help the turbo spool the less time it takes to accellerate your car. Thats also why I've done the flywheel.

less than $20 for the odd bits $120 for the tape. enough to do the back of turbo to cat and inlet pipe on the stock intercooler. Bits still left over somewhere. I'd still use the ceramic coat for the manifold the same, it would be a right pain to wrap.

Yes, thermo wrap tends to be a little better at insulating heat than ceramic coating (in general). It does depend on the thickness/type of the ceramic coating. Some companies offer different options. At any rate both are excellent and there is nothing stopping you from doing both. The ceramic coating is usually less than $200 from a very faulty memory

I have the FGK (FitsuboGiken) exhaust from cat back. It is the quietest jap exhaust I have heard on a skyline appart from stock. It has a nice deep 'pur' on idle and lets you know you what the engine is doing when you give it heaps. It looks good and does the job without the 'cop-bait' noise and has excellent quietness when on cruise. Makes your car more of a 'sleeper'.

Stainless 304 is fine for turbo manifolds and if welded properly to begin with will out last mild steel. Cracking is because of hot spots and the kind of corrosion they promote. I have known stainless, steam pipe and mild steel exhausts to crack because of this. Steam pipe is great stuff all the same and mild steel is great for the price. Fix the hot spot corrosion issue (ceramic coat) and you don't have a problem what ever way you look at it. Has C.E.S had a chance to 'pulse tune' the correct length of the headers on RB25DET's? If so how did they do it?

Most performance shops can get the stuff (thermotec). I prefer DEI Engineering stuff myself as it has a nice marker running the length of the tape for even wrapping. Bout $120 for the 60ft roll of 2inch wide DEI from revolution race gear, which is a little more than the termotec but worth it. The turbo kit from thermotec is about $150 -$200 from memory. Do the job yourself. Its not technical, just hard work that requires a little patience and a couple of hours. Here's how I did mine. Ingredients: 60ft roll of tape / stainless steel hose clamps / large plastic cable ties / High temperature (silicone based) paint of your favorite colour. 1) clean the pipe to be wrapped / sand lightly. 2) paint evenly with high temp paint. 3) cure the paint by driving the car around and cooling down as per can instructions. 4) wrap the pipe evenly all the way along. DO NOT over wrap or under wrap sections out of slackness. Use plastic cable ties along the way to keep wrap in place. 5) Spay the wrapped pipe again with high temp paint, to seal off any slight air gaps.

Makit hardware in erindale rd balcatta. next to marlows. 1L and 4L containers. Pay upto $23 for 4L. Otherwise contact BP, not the service station. There is only one toluene availible, its either pure toluene(which you want) or its glue remover (which you don't want).

Mate. I know soon you will get over the under bonet vanity thing because you now own a real performance car. When that magic moment arrives you will have no hesitation in ceramic coating the ic pipes. Under bonet temp wise the tape is very good indeed. You can put your hand on the dump pipe straight after a drag race, when you know underneath it is glowing red. If you ever pop the bonnet with the engine running after a belt, you will notice a great deal of heat comes from the turbo/dump area, this is all but gone on mine. Under bonnet temp is the secondary benifit BTW. The main benifit comes with trapping the heat energy in the pipe and converting it to gas velocity (pressure along boyles law lines).

1) Stainless steel of decent guage. leading to cracks. If you insulate the pipe well it will prevent it from having 'hot spots' that are the real cause of problems, mild steel OR stainless. I've seen both crack with exhaust tape within months of use, due only to incorrect uneven wrapping and lack of surface preparation. With ceramic coating you don't have such problems. 2)Shortish runners. Because aftermarket runners are always going to be longer than the stock manifold. Longer pimary pipes will shift the power band and torque up the rev range (as a rule of thumb). 3) Tuned length? Sure, you can try. Basically the length of each runner is made along the lines of measuring the pulse width of the exhaust(kinda like a wavelength). Something more accuratley done by putting oil or something on straight primary pipes and seeing where they get black lines, or using an optical pyrometer or something .Well I'm not entirely sure how its done these days but thats the theory. Something that requires someone to do R&D. 4) ceramic coating is very good. Looks nice, lasts. Heat wrap done right will insulate better and slightly outperform ceramic coating in the dump pipe area. For the turbo manifold ceramic coating is a better move, its just a complete SOB to wrap (the dump pipe is hard enough). For the dump pipe you could ceramic coat it and then get the thermotec turbo kit (includes a turbine blanket).

You will probably lose.

Only in the same way as a dyno mate (ie: under controlled conditions and with calibration). Things like weight and diff ratio can have a very large bearing on terminal speed.

I think they might have been B&B coatings in a previous life. If so they are very good. Coating the exhaust manifold is a good idea, and the ic pipes as well. For those interested wrapping the aftermarket dump pipe is a great little mod for not much cash. Themotec make a blanket and tape package for turbos (blanket goes on the turbine). If you don't go the whole blanket thing then just the tape is good also (thats all I have).

Roughly, The BP ultimate 98 stuff would be a closer guestimate due to it having the lowest % content of aromatics. The mixture of 30% toluene to 70% BP98 will yeild an approximate RON of 105.

They do perhaps on street style road surface, put any road car on the real 1/4 race strip and it will lose a few tenths or more. EVL can do a mid 12 if his car is well maintained and driven with the present mods. Given that these times are common amongst R33 GTRs of similar spec.

with the compression test you can perform it 'hot' and/or 'cold'. The factory manual will have corresponding pressure ranges for each.

VP 103 has its limits and they aren't that high. Race fuels like C16 allow high boost but once again not that high. RM/2 is a more respected figure in race fuel terminology (mean RON+MON).

They would be a good start. If you can't get everthing from them let me know. I'm sure I'll remember who it was that does the different bits:cool:

Dude would like to have another go but, I'm down south with the family on holiday. Just remember to have fun, and make sure you beat the guy next to you, its the best part for the adrenalin. Race some of the other skyline guys in a grudge match. Tell the stewards you want to do this and they will fit you both in.

Change gears around your horsepower peak buddy. Before or after depends on how sharp the fall off is and what the gear ratios are like. Rob: as above.

The same engines test diesel and other fuels too don't they? I'm puzzled still. Remember the formula 1 example: 104 RON fuel was the restriction so they added 7% n-heptane ( a relatively inert fuel ). 104 RON (basically all toluene normally rated 122RON/114MON). Now if you can find a race fuel or additive with only 104 RON that can handle running an engine at 75psi of boost (5 Bar) your doing better than all the formula 1 teams ever could. BTW they were only restricted to 104RON not forced to use toluene. Maybe its the MON thats more important is that measured the same way?

Whatever works, sometimes slipping the clutch doesn't help when you got next to no power like mine, the tyres should do some work even if its only 205 worth. My tip: don't rev the shite outa your engine and you will launch ok with lower pressure in the rear tyres. Vspec, see what rev your car juuuust bogs down on if you on the street with a sidestep. It probably won't bog down on the strip at this rev. Feed the accellerator as quickly as you can, without bogging it.

dude, You need adjustable top control arms (for d' camber) front, they go for around $500. Rear camber kit (bunch of different bushes and sleaves) bout $100. While your at it you could do the adjustable radius rods for a bit of extra camber, for turn in and less nose dive under brakes.

Oh I dont' know about that. I tell you what someone give me their PFC and I'll try.

just get a smaller exhaust wheel. That turbo must be super serious, probably needs to run at very high boost (18+psi). Have you got the HKS specs? could be a 600+hp turbo.

Interesting stuff! All the same I wonder how the knock motor calculates RON/MON, it can't be just to do with pre-ignition can it? I mean that would make diesel super octane rated, when it isn't?