rev210
Members-
Posts
5,427 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Feedback
100%
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Media Demo
Store
Everything posted by rev210
-
Mate thats the way to go. 2500lbs pressure plate is a bit of a leg breaker. It may not be to your taste if you have never driven a car with one before. Ross does a 2000lb version thats not too much more than stock but has plenty of extra clamping pressure. Just think about it... or better still ask someone nicely to have a turn of their car with a 2500lb pressure plate and see if you will like it. (personally I don't think you will need it unless you are going to tow a boat).
-
You could be onto something here. I've tried adjusting the idle. It works only when the idle is set (aircon off) to 1,100rpm which is too high for normal use. Other than that it will 'hunt' and occasionally stall with the aircon on, as you hear the 'clutch' engage. Everything else appears to run well though. I'm pretty sure I'm getting the power out from the alternator and battery.
-
The mineral safety data sheet (australian version) does not classify toluene as a carcinogen, nor does any other world standard for toxicity. As I said before however, ALL general use petrol contains carcinogenic substances. And the vapours from petrol contain these very same carcinogenic substances. Like to fill your car up in a chemical protection suit now? If you don't then you aren't reacting consistantly with the belief that toluene might be carcinogenic. I find that the same people that label toluene a carcinogen are blissfully unaware that petrol is recognised world wide as a carcinogen. They probably even wash parts (and hands) in it and siphon petrol using their mouth?
-
Anyone know what could be causing my car to not idle smooth (even stall sometimes) when the aircon is switched on? It's not: The plugs. The timing. The airflow meter.
-
It's pretty good at cleaning oily grime your hands if you forget to wear gloves:D The central neverous system effects occur if sniff it. Thats why harware stores have it locked up sometimes (to prevent those who do this from stealing it) Mind you ordinary petrol is far worse to spill on your hands but most people change fuel filters and stuff without gloves. Maybe they should wear some.
-
It's definately not a carcinogen. It is dangerous tho. Don't go sniffing it on purpose. You will die on a high. BTW ordinary fuel IS carcinogenic, linked to leukemia.
-
Dude check this thread out, got the pics. $330 for the clutch plate I paid. Don't install yourself, putting the gearbox back in is more pain than the $250 for labour. http://forums.skylinesaustralia.com/showth...=&threadid=6748
-
have drag raced for quite a few years and running low tyre pressures is the way to do things. I forgot to let my tyres down last time and I was lucky enough to meet a bloke with a tyre guage. 19/20 psi or lower for most tyres. Your sidewalls will stay on the rim as long as you don't try going around corners real fast. Zoom can kiss my ass! A sample size of at least 30 is required to make something statistically valid (though not necessarily absolutley true) I wish I had a dollar for every time something is 'proven' by a test involving 3 or 4 cars, products or runs.
-
Knock engines are not how RON is calculated at the places the stuff is made, more likely to be a HPLC or something. You might notice on a 'knock engine' diesel rates higher also, it requires great cylinder pressures to actually combust. Like I said before RON ought to equate to the 'octane' composition and poential energy as it suggests not its volitility as the 'knock motor' measures, though this can relate to the reduced volitility additional octane produces. I've used the nulon stuff, wynns and a few others. The difference is nothing to write home about, any gain is usually through modest timing advance. 500ml in 60L ? This would mean the RON of nulon is over 792 RON ! Who are we kidding? Toluene you WILL notice. 500ml of SFA Vs a few litres of real power.
-
Autoclutch is the place to go for a new clutch mate. I have the 9 button ceramic clutch and I kept my old stock pressure plate. The take up is lovely for a button clutch, I've never seen anything like it! As usual (for button clutches) the clutch friction point is closer to the floor but it feels as soft as the stocker without the slippage.
-
Mike, I think a light non-plastic/rubber corrosive oil would do, as in the finer filter products / O2 rush. Not real sure about the K&N stuff but it would probably work too.
-
Nulon's octane booster is quite ordinary. Look at the volume for price. This is where toluene is a little different to 'bottle' octane boosters, it is more of a 'fuel base'. Nulon and products like it are not added in quantities upto 20+% nor can they be without serious harmful effects to the engine and an actual drop in performance. In the reviews I've seen comparing different octane boosters ,including nulon's, wynns race formula was a suprise performer. Nulon in the same review scored quite average. This was a horsepower based test. Nulon incidentally will never raise the octane level above 100 RON with BP ultimate 98 (infact most cannot) with 1L in 60L (<2%). Reviews that contend that it does are suspect (read advertising money) as this requires the additive to contain not less than 396 RON. Don't even get me started on the MON. Ask most serious racers what they think of this stuff compared to 'REAL' 101 racing fuel. Granted the formula in a these additves reduces volitility but, not through adding an octane base. Toluene adding is just like the racing fuel, only better (no EPA restrictions apply to producing your fuel).
-
The 'in the bottle' octane boosters do very little to bring up octane (they are usually little tiny bottles). By comparison a high octane additive like toluene does make a noticable difference at less cost.
-
What about 'O' ringing BTW?
-
Well it counts for a whole lot of fun and certainly more g-forces doing the actual run. Rest assured your 'street time' or everyday power will be plenty of fun even if a little lower than the setting you have for the strip. In most cases you will run a faster 1/4 time on the 'road' than the strip purely for traction reasons. Lets say you have a 9sec flat 700hp in road trim car. Does 'that' count for something? Sure it does! thats on the street. But what if this same car has its power cranked to 800hp and runs an 8.5sec 1/4. Does that mean this car is no fun to drive on the street? Clearly the difference between your street and strip configs is not worth looking at, its kinda silly. What matters is what level of comfort you are prepared to sacrifce on a car that you drive everyday. This is an individual choice. If someone doesn't like pouring in the toluene before putting in the pump gas perhaps another might object to putting petrol in thier own car entirely and choose to ride a bike to work.
-
There is no point comparing fuel additives with un-streetable engine components. At least when we are talking toluene. Nitro maybe. Running a better fuel in your engine helps protect it from harm under stressfull circumstances most of all. Like when you are racing your car or just plain driving hard.
-
Maaaaate... You could use the same argument when I used to drive 30kms out of my way to buy avgas, or when I premixed two stroke oil in my petrol cause I removed the oil metering pump on my RX4 rotory. Either way if you met me on the street you would see the everyday power of the daily driver as it kicked your arse. I have loads of crap in my boot everyday, and I only left it in for the drags cause I went straight from work. If I took the 100 odd kgs out of my boot that would make me guilty of not reflecting 'everyday power' too. At the end of the day each person decides what constitutes a 'hassle' when it comes to fuel additives. So give it a try and decide for yourself if toluene is worth the hassle. BTW I think changing and checking the plugs is a far greater hassle than premixing toluene yet people are always doing this themselves.
-
Makit hardware sell the stuff, $23 for a 4L tin. If you get it off BP(not the servos) you can buy 20/40/100L quantities and its very cheap. Just remember to talk about using it as a 'solvent' (not a fuel additive) as they are prohibited from selling it as a fuel additive. Adam: the adding of toluene isn't an 'experimental' idea its as old as the hills, like I said before formula 1 cars ran on 'pure' toluene with a dash of n-heptane. I'd be inclined to add some for those special occasions given our fuels are absolute crap compared to jap stuff. Why wouldn't you do it if it meant protecting your motor from increased wear and possible failure due to pre-ignition?
-
Toluene is THE best basis for a turbo fuel full stop. Toluene was used during the 'turbo era' of formula 1. Back when they were running 5bars(73psi) of boost in qualiying and 4bars(59psi) in race! The formula 1 fuels were limited to 102 RON so 84% toluene and 16%n-heptane (has no octane rating to bring it back to 102). Toluene has a RON of 122 but more importantly the RM/2 is 114 which is freakin high. A 30% mixture of Toluene with BP98 yeilds a RON of 106 but huge RM/2 of 103!!! The main disadvantage of running too high a mix of Toluene is the cold start and low rpm operation if you don't adjust the maps and timing. Having said that I have sucessfully ran the above mixture of 25/30% in my car with only the factory ecu and I didn't bother changing the timing either. If you want some the Makit hardware store next to marlows balcatta has some, diggers brand 1 and 4L tins. Go the pineapples!
-
113.35mph Damn! That mph is fat enough to get the low 12's on street rubber, get yourself a 1.9 or 1.8 60ft and bingo! You must have a nice mid range power band dispite the lowish top end power figure. If you still have the top secret ecu for next time you could run a bit of toluene in the tank to get a jap like octane level and stop the timing retard.
-
I took out the front section on mine, I have only got the rear on. I think the unpredictable part is more HICAS than pineapples, granted they might make matters worse in 'drag' position, I'm not too sure having only half installed.
-
2.23 is still not a world beating launch mate even I managed a 2.1 on el'crapo 205's (didn't make the most of it cause the vacume line popped). Have you installed the pineapples yet? Reducing diff bounce isn't the major reason you put pineapples on, wheel spin is. BTW whats was the terminal speed, 660ft and speed and 1000ft time?
-
Well 12.9 is something to write on that drawing board!
-
Doesn't do a thing to the appearance mate. Nor does it negatively affect the handling, if anything it improves the handling. It's something Nissan should have done from factory.
-
Well I did put a new cat on, just a cheapy but instead of the old factory (90,000km+) with a 2 1/4 inch inlet this has 3inch, the same size as the rest of the pipes. Difference? Up top there seems to be a little extra and some more noise from the tail pipe, having said that my car is almost as silent as stock. Most cars I see around idle louder than mine at full scream.