rev210

Well It seems Macka is breathing down the necks of the GTR boys and girls now with flat 13's. Thats where I'd like to be next time round. Might be a bit harder for me without that Mack-tastic power A little birdy told me the track was 'treated' reasonably tonight, something I think they should do more of since more street cars are turning up to race. Hicks, did you get that 13.8 you were chasing? Adam32 how did you go with the boost over 8psi?

Has anyone seen the benifits of a high flow cat over a standard one?

I'd say for street purposes avoid the solids, don't know if thats possible with the cams you end up selecting. I'd say going for a fairly mild grind of cam would be the best bet. Keeping the power in the 'mid range' for the street. Maybe you could look at keeping the stock cams with a little bit of a play with the shaft timing? If you haven't got that machining joint 'locked in' I'd give a few other places a call just to be sure. There is about half a dozen places I'd be perfectly happy to hand my engine over to (all of them do work on race cars day in day out. So it comes down to the best prices for the same work. That way you might save a few $$$ for another mod.

The engine build depends on what power you want. I guess if you go the forgies etc. it should read kinda like this: Rods -shotpeened /linished and crack tested ( no not the cocaine) Pistons - forged Rod bolts --- strong aftermarket bastards Crank --- ballanced Bearings --- Clearanced for extra power/revs There are other things machining wise you can do to the bottom end but this is probably the basic start. Up top get the head ported and flowed correctly for the anticipated power / air flow of the turbo selected. The selection of camshaft and turbo will be important to the head work. Ultimately getting the head properly CNC machined and flowed is the best bet. Adjustable cam gears are a good idea btw. Now for the big tip: Avoid the jap style tuners for an engine build. Get quotes from Chris mills, Kosteki (best cylider head flow bench and machining in WA) and the like for the work , ask for their 'best price' and shop around. These guys do very high horsepower engines in their sleep and charge fair prices with all the machine work done in house unlike the jap tuners we all know and love.

Anyone seen any articles showing the actual power improvement a high flow cat offers over a stockie?

Yes the stock turbo works harder on stock ic/plenum at 'high' boost, but at lower boost there isn't much difference (ie: it can flow enough air). High boost is dangerous even with a nice front mount just ask macka. It also seems to let go at the drags just for that special added embarassment.

You wouldn't want to destroy your engine too? Bits of turbo can get into the intercooler or even the motor.

Here's a pic of my patent pending clutch alignment tool for tools:D Takes 5 min to make them with a length of dowl and some electrical tape.

Errr... yep stock, its even got the nissan factory heat sheild cover. Does anyone know how much restriction these stockers have? I'm going down to quick fit in morley to get them to have a look , I doubt they would want to punch a hole in it. I might just get a replacement while I'm there. Here's another pic of my 'installed' clutch and flywheel

Limits boost , as per the setting. If you want to run more you can set a higher boost on the 'scramble' setting, press a button and off you go. You are running the stock turbo right? If so 1.1 bar is going to destroy it and maybe other things sooner or later.

The drama contiunes... Last night whilst attempting to tighten up the bolts on the cat. converter I managed to break one off! Now the exhaust leak is worse and I'm going to have to go to an exhaust joint to fix it :hellpisd: It appears my cat. is original as well so I might have to change it's done 90,000+kms now.

Never give them the satisfaction of seeing you anoyed (pulling fingers). As for the road rage thing, telling people " hey you keep doing that and you will be in jail by this afternoon " usually cools them off a little before the window punching stage. If not take the rego and report them to the cops as you drive off. You did the right thing in driving off BTW. I had plenty of people hop out for a chat without me even giving the finger or anything. I guess people can't afford a boxing club membership and this is their outlet? I have successfully used the " you are going to jail by this afternoon" comment many times and on the odd occasion I have stepped out of the car to queitly chat face to face.

WA suspensions in osborne park I seem to recall were ok, they should be able to do the settings all the same I'd do the ring around maybe start a thread about this to get the best deal. Wheels world in subi were the whiteline agents over here, I think they have closed up shop. Youcan probably get them direct from autospeed's shop via the mail in time for next wed. Check out xspeed/speedworks etc to see if they have any pineapple kits in stock other than the whiteline one (anyone will do pretty much). Advice cost is your car going faster than mine.

I think I saw someone mention ferrodo 'DS' series in the thread about brakes. I used to ferrodo's on my mazda, I though they were very good indeed. I think the range number for the skyline was DS 2500 and 3000 (the 3000's are a strong track pad). Someone know about these?

Hardest is not always best even for track work, having said that you should be able to take them to a fairly reasonable softer setting. The KCA349 kit basically takes out the sloppy compliance in the rear diff cradle. Instead there is a better transfer of energy through the cradle and a better geometry/angle for rear squat and transfer of power to the rear tyres. Something you need more of even for a track car when powering out of corners. Basically there are benifits for both track,strip and drift use with these kits in the various configs they offer.

Gtst vspec ; the coil over comment wasn't aimed at you btw, its just to discourage people who really don't need them away to better more cost effective options. With the coil overs you need to set it to a nice soft setting all round if you don't have the pineapples.

13.8sec a few wed nights ago. Slippery track fried chicken clutch:D

Well suspension wise its a bit tricky.... I think you can live with coil overs on the rear only. I think they help when you do a full install of the diff cradle pineapples to minimise the diff bounce you can experience with softish stock rear shocks. softest setting/stock for the front suspension and reasonably hard suspension on the back works for most applications. I don't think you need to compromise at all on your day to day twisty performance to have something half way decent for the strip. I'd personally just get a set of koni's and king springs over the more expensive coil over setup (read a waste of money). Unless 'rice' is your thing, this is the reason people often get coil overs and blow off valves. The whiteline suspension kit (pineapples) is part no. KCA349. go buy it today! about $114.

I'm happy and relieved all at once. Gotta have a target even if a little optimistic. First I'll see how close I can get running the same conditions as last time so I can incrementally change stuff as I sort it out.That means: Changed : * clutch * flywheel Keep the same: *100+kgs of crap in the boot (no problem there I almost always have it in day to day) * 8 psi of boost * Same 205 tyres yum cha cheapo tyres (be it a bit more worn) I'll probably put the boost up to 10psi as the times improve. Having said all that I reckon the best fun at the drags is beating all those cars you don't get to race legally on the street but see from time to time.

Ooops I forgot to mention the best tip.... Pineapples!!! And the second best tip..... Concrete in the boot!!!

Your launches will be very different to the street, the only way to 'practice' is to go to the strip. Tips: * let down your tyres 16-20psi * Launch at a point where you would normally juuuust 'bog down' on the street (rest assured you will wheelspin at the plex anyway). * don't run super low profile tyres at full inflation. R33_Cam : Your car probably does do a 1/4 in 13.6 onm the street (I'm sure you have the power to weight to do this), however you're right about it not translating to a real 1/4 strip for reasons I have mentioned before. Don't poo poo the readings they are often correct just not comparable across different environments. Note: most car manufacturer/magazine tests occur on more 'favourable' track conditions suited to a street cars tyre and suspension setup. This data you can almost always compare to your RSM/G-tech results. Go to the strip and you see how manufacturer claims seem overly 'fast' , when really they are just taken from more ideal testing grounds.

It's finally in !!!!!! What a difference! Is it faster ? Yep. Is the gear change faster and easier ? Yep. Does the boost come on quicker? Yep. Is the throttle response improved? Yep. Does it stall easy off idle? Nope. Do you lose lots of revs between gears? Nope. Has it lost torque? Nope. I say all this even with a bad exhaust leak probably killing off some of the power (thanks to me taking the exhaust/gearbox mounting bolts out of the cat and not tightening them back up fully). The clutch is just as soft and friendly as stock, maybe even softer and grabs very well. It's a fantastic design from Autoclutch, big thumbs up! Flat 13's here I come! :)

Oh well. Thanks for the offer Ken. I tried the angle down thing too but I guess without the wedge it was a bit hard.

RSM's and g-techs are good little tools. They are accurate but, the difference between the actual 1/4 and the RSM measurements is the 'surface' you drive on. Overall the RSM/G-tech is accurate for the 'street' measurement and is good for detecting the results of a tune (provided its done on the same road / conditions). When used at the same time as a real 1/4 run the results are identical or close enough to be considered the same. This does not however mean that someones g-tech or RSM results are worth comparing to someone elses actual 1/4 time. The 1/4 is almost always going to be much slower due to the traction handicap.

That wed they skimped on the VHT for sure. The factory time for the gtst r33 is 14.2, I'd say a factory claim like that translates to a high 14 or low 15 on a night like that at the plex.I pulled a better time than most of the Commo's there and that makes sense because I beat them on the street too.