rev210

Who went down and how did you go? Was the track better or worse than the last wed. night?

How did the line's go ? Did Gotboost get better than 13.7 this time? Hopefully the track is gona get stickier as the season goes on.

The 'boom' part is right I lost count of how many gearboxes, diffs and axles I've replaced on other cars with 'real' power. At least my skyline hasn't got enough torque to do any harm at this stage.

No they don't help 'axle tramp'. At least not unless you put them in the 'drift /wheelspin' config. They help stop wheel spin and may actually induce a little 'axle tramp' / diff bounce /hop as a result of the back tyres grabbing. Tramp is more a problem associated with leaf sprung rear cars. Like the old falcons/chargers. For that we used to fit tramp bars (usually nice chrome ones -- the old version of rice when fitted to a stock six cylinder). You must have pineapples!

The 'boom' part is right I lost count of how many gearboxes, diffs and axles I've replaced on other cars with 'real' power. At least my skyline hasn't got enough torque to do any harm at this stage.

Nitto's,like the BFGs are horrible in the wet and 15,000 miles worth of normal driving (read I drive like a 90 year old on sedatives) wear aint much at all. Thats just what you get for essentially 'shaved' tyres. BFG's from all accounts I've heard out perform Nitto's hands down on a strip. Rear wheel drive skylines need no encouragement to go sideways wet or dry. The only alternative is to drive like you are supposed to in the wet (ie: like nana) BFG's or not (Mind you over here in the west I think rain has become but a memory). Up against it's 'real' drag/street peers (mickey t dot's etc) the BFG's put up a better road proposition ,be it with the enevitable drawbacks a tyre that close to race spec will attract.

Look at these baby's They are the little brothers of the BFG drag comp radial TA's, for those of us who can't fit a 255/45/17 under our rear guards and don't want to give up much handling. http://www.bfgoodrichtires.com/assets/pdf/...drag_radial.pdf The nice low profile gives nothing away on road handling and at the strip...well next best thing to slicks. Who sells these suckers in Australia?

Gradenko, I think we are talking the same language. Drag/street overlap as much as track/street on turbo selection. The operative word is 'street', ie: nice fat power band. Whether you have a mild set up for track or strip is a matter of 'how much' you want to compromise the daily drivabillity.

Power to weight ratio is all that counts for acceleration. SR20s -- they are good little engines. They don't make 200rwkw on the stock turbo's tho' ( maybe on a space cadet dyno they do) Don't know about the handling aspect. Skyline chassis was made to race unlike the silvia/180. On a long drive or in a crash I'd take the skyline.

I don't think you need to give up much handling wise if anything, at least if you feel the stock car handles nicely. Besides a street/strip car is essentially one that is great to drive on the road and not too shabby on the occasional strip trip. Street before strip. My first priority it to keep my car 'streetable'. I want smooth handling and engine response (after all its my work car ). The guys I often meet who talk about getting the street/track setup are more often than not never going to drive at waneroo or any track for that matter. Most can't drive well and have done the race suspension only (usually poorly) and haven't touched the brakes (look out skyline owners!) or anything else. My worn stock suspensioned car will out handle most of them on a circuit. The track setup depending on how far you go will comprimise your cars everyday drivabillity far more than a strip consideration. You really ought to have a passion to race to go this way and at least do it properly and be prepared for large outlays of cash when you brake stuff.

What was your 660ft time on the 13.8 mate? Mine was 9 flat at 81.08mph for the 13.8 run.

I haven't seen one get close either over here. I believe have been a few over east? What I haven't seen over here is any kind of serious attempt to set up a street/strip gtst. Most are a mish mash of street/track/strip, being pretty ordinary at all three. I agree about 'proving' the time as well. If you like the 1/4 mile as your sport this is all that matters to you anyway. The theory however is not skyline specific, goodness knows I didn't learn it from owning mine, on the whole a car that is rather slow compared to some of my others. Top end aint the problem mate, unless your car stops making power above 3500rpm or something and you don't have the right gearing ratios. Power to weight ratio is what counts. There are plenty of cars with a similar power to weight ratio running 12's here and over east. I would center the argument about launching the car right and keeping wheelspin down in the 2nd and 3rd gears.

It would be quite a challenge to get a flat 13, I agree. I think you will do very well if you have decided to aim for a low 13 as a goal, especially if that is your priority. Having a goal when setting out to mod your car is the best way to go, it means you will have a focus. As they say ' if you aim at nothing you will hit it ' and if you aim at everything you will hit nothing. Boostzor -- Last time my car ran down the 1/4 it had an extra 100+kgs of weight, 205 tyres and 8psi of boost courtesy of a hose that I didn't want to pop again. A 13.8, it would have been lower but I needed smaller tyres and less boost. So as you can see my car is very heavily modified, unlike Gradenko who's car is only 'mildly' modified. I think if I can modify my boot to take concrete blocks I will drop my time into the 11's. I am also looking into lead panels and sand bags.

new thought.... They possibly put the new center bearing in the wrong way. It goes in either way but, only works properly one way.

Yeah PVC pipe rules! (As long as your not circuit racing). We used Plumbing PVC pipe and fittings on a mates car rotory turbo, cost about $30. Was good for 14psi of boost and adds that extra WOW! factor to any engine bay.

Gradenko, are you doing anything else apart from the cooler? I'm about to go get a button clutch so I can install my flywheel. I reckon a stock turbo gtst without any fuel management and stock ic can do a flat 13..... Oh no did I just say that inner monologue out loud?

The KCA349 whiteline kit is only $114 (3 pairs of different pineapples and instructions). I doubt you are going to get any discount on the purchase of only 2. But hey I hope you do.

If you are talking the 1/4 strip. Then let down the tyres to about 19/20psi and launch at 3000rpm or so.

Sounds like some bollocks to me. Skylines aren't the only cars with two piece shafts. I'd ask why they think this is a common problem. The only way it would be is if the tailshaft sections get twisted. (something that happens alot easier to a single piece shaft). If the vibration is at 80kmh and 'WAS' the tailshaft there would be evidence of twisting or dents on part of the shaft (ie: out of ballance - something you can have re-ballanced anyway). Center bearing wear shows as a constant vibration that gets worse as you go faster and uni's well they either have play in them or they don't. Vibration could be worn engine or gearbox mounts, wheel bearings or steering components or wheel ballance.

You will find that even the 'soft' setting is harder than stock. You could probably leave the damper setting tho' and just do the pineapples and run lower tyre pressure when you go to d' drags. But, you 'NEED' the pineapples! You will like them.

The Pineapples are the 'only' thing that could have helped me pull a 13.8 ( I only put 1/2 the kit in --- the rear diff part ). Mine are the KCA349 whiteline kit.

Well here's my 2c. Either way there is bugger all extra heat saving. The ambient underbonnet temps will see to that. I notice this car doesn't have a cold air box either. The nice long and very hot 'boosted' inlet pipe is going to get the underbonnet temps right up there. Heating everything from the front timing cover to the intake manifold, radiator hose and belts (No thanks). Thermo wrapping the pipes makes the argument void. So everyone lets just do that no matter which way you put the pipe. Whats the dna cooler flow like? It looks well made.

You need two completely different types of tyre. For going around corners the tyres you need will have: *stiff sidewalls / low profile? *Soft rubber compound *Tyre width will be close to equal to rim width, ie: 205s on a 7inch / 225 on an 8 inch. For the drags: * soft compound that gets 'tacky' when heated * Sidewalls that flex well ( usually tallish profile). * not so strict on tyre and rim width ,more rubber contact the better. For the drags, I'd try and find a couple of 14/15inch rims because you can get a range of street/strip tyres for those sizes to meet your budget. Otherwise 16inch + and you are looking at $300+ a corner for BFG drag radial TAs.

DYNO's ARE FOR TUNING! There is no real point in comparing different dyno readings between cars on different dynos. Unless you are a bit bored. If you are tuning your car , going back to the SAME dyno makes alot of sense. The 1/4 mile is a sport and not a very strict indicator of power, there are even more variables than comparing dyno results. ie: if you don't get the right equipment to play the sport you may not do too well. Like playing golf with a hockey stick. I guess asking for peoples dyno results with a similar car setup will give you a range, which if your car fits between can give you some peice of mind that nothing is terribly wrong.

The G-reddy/trust Plenum , provides better flow and hence power/torque and fuel ecconomy than the stock unit when fitted in conjunction with a front mount. I think its a worth while one for those people (like me) looking to improve on what the factory did wrong. Like : Exhaust / filter / flywheel / thermal insulation / intercooler. All these can yeild a power and fuel ecconomy bonus. Fuel ecconomy ones help pay back the cost somewhat over 1million years. About $1350AUS for the trust plenum including delivery from japan from taka's. I wouldn't buy the aussi ones given they cost more and are no where near as well designed.