rev210

I got a K&N panel filter. Nice and quiet.

Mate, you might want to go a bit cheaper on the used PFC and hand controller. Nengun sell's them for $1300AUS and that includes delivery to Australia from japan. http://www.nengun.siteblast.com/gallerymor...&galleryid=3913 You can even get the PFC Pro version with HC and Boost controller for $1600AUS delivered.

I reckon I could give this mistreated 'line a run for its money. My car sometimes goes months without a wash or a vacume and has at some stages 3 cartons worth of empty 'V' bottles, chip packets and general rubbish upto the passengers knee. Also I have had cobwebs on my rear muffler and drivers side rear vision mirror. My respect even stretches to the dent in the rear that I got 2 weeks after purchase that I haven't fixed for two years ( and my brother is a spray painter ). Having said all that I maintain the mechanical aspect of the car to the highest standard. Perhaps this red skyline enjoys mechanical perfection but not cosmetic?

Yes PFC does more. There are quite a few threads that explore this topic that you might find interesting if you do a search. Have fun:)

Ogura Racing clutch. Very light almost stock feel even on their 1500+HP rated 4 plater.

190rwhp with stock boost, FGK cat back exhaust. Car in a decent state of tune. This was on a dyno day with plenty of other skylines, of standardish and modified types. Some with more boost than me (10psi) and various other mods got the same rwhp as mine on the day,or slightly less. You have an automatic, so you lose a few extra HP there before you get to the tyres.

Stock Ignition curve is crap, for everyone without the re-map/re-graph of the ignition timing you will have issues up top. The plugs changing and gapping can only do so much, there is much power to be had here and in the camshaft timing, even on a stockie with a little more boost.

Adam's got an HKS AFC thingo. Like you I run the stock rated 'warm' plug. Regardless of gap they (warm plugs) will have a nicely cooked electrode in no time with a setup like Adams with revs and tO4 style boost.

$250 extra? I'd wait till you do the whole exhaust, include this with the deal as a package and your sure to get it alot cheaper.

I think I saw that car on wed. night. Has the private plates 'grange' ? Adam ; I am tempted to say something outlandish like : " I'll be doing 12's soon as well " But, I take deep breaths and repeat the words of calmness " its a work car .... it's a work car.... "

Hmmm... Peoples descriptions of pinging varies, most would say it sounded like a faint rattle. Taking it back to the dealers is never a bad idea if its an unusual noise not present when you purchased the car. They have at least a 3 month mandatory warranty and I'm sure the odd dumb question is better for them than forking out for a new motor under warranty.

Pinging. Whatever you do don't try and produce that sound again or you may soon say farewell to a piston. Get the timing checked. It sounds like it may be adavnced too far.

Forget the commo's (mind you there are some spankingly fast ones --- need I mention summoner's ute ). You must avoid being beated by the 4cyl Hondas. one of the Speedworks Integra type r's was at the plex when I went down and ran a 14.00 ! After it did that I couldn't allow my car to go slower than a sub 14 to save face. Beaten by a Honda, Noooooooooooo! (well maybe a bike or an NSX).

Your car sits on a jack/stand thing. Maybe they rattle gun your wheels, so the nuts never come off, or strip the thread so the wheel falls off going down the road (had that happen to me once -- it was very funny ). Just jokes about the rattle gun, I'm sure they only use it to take the wheels off not on.

0.9 on a colder plug should be fine. It could be a dirty AFM also thats doing the idle over. If the engine is 'hunting'.

The plugs foul at idle, and get cleaned up when you floor it. They just won't last as long as your old ones. Why not run the gap at 0.9 or so, with a colder range plug I'm sure you won't be down any power and it will give back the idle perhaps.

It all comes out in the wash anyway:)

Could be the smaller gap and worse still if you have installed a colder heat range of plug. The smaller gap/colder plug provides better combustion for top end (as per the reason you did it) but, provides poor combustion at idle. The plugs will have less life in them as well. Best thing to do is practise changing plugs, so you can change to a colder set for race use and leave a nice warm setting for the street. Poor combustion also shortens the life of the engine BTW.

You ALWAYS replace the thrust bearing (they are what $20?) when changing the clutch. Let me tell you something else that might make you think a little less of the clutch fitters you used: Single plate organic material clutches will die very fast at the hands of a 600hp engine (the best I've seen is a rating of 350HP for a single plate organic). At least you don't have a 600HP engine to show them up with. What gets me is why they feel they have to lie to you about how much power it can handle. I would be asking them to refer you to one of their existing clients with a 600+HP skyline who uses the same clutch.

Saw you down the plex, last wed.Mine was the stock looking silver R33. BTW like the luminous dash kit. Can't have been the weather slowing you down, it was quite cool. The track was slippery though, I think they skimp on the vht treatment for street meetings. KCA349 whiteline kit for the diff cradle m8. Let your tyres down to 20psi. Stage the tyres properly. All that should help.

How much?

yes, used the online credit card thingo'. ems tracking is done best by the australia post website, works every step of the way.

The 'westinghouse' is not any real use when the boost is on, its more for a quick cool down before you plant it again. Or for a temp drop when driving along normally (off boost) for extra response and fuel ecconomy perhaps. At least the front mount looks better than my ugly looking stockie with wires hanging off, normally its hidden but I have long since removed the inner left wheel dust guard to allow better airflow a tip worth considering if you are stuck with the stock cooler.

Sounds groovy. Keep us informed buddy.

I know what you are talking about with the stock turbo's love for blowing up at higher boost. It's interesting to consider the pressure at the turbine as opposed to the plenum. I don't think I'd buy an aftermarket intercooler first myself (call me weird). I would go change the turbo, the intercooler change doesnt add power with the stock turbo running 10psi. And with the stockie ready to let go at greater boost pressure, the new ic would just add the temptation to do naughty boost increases. Its six of one and half a dozen of another all the same.