rev210

Does that mean with a nice flowing intercooler you can run 16psi at the plenum without a care, assuming a 1 psi pressure drop at the cooler? A plenum 12psi on the stock cooler would be about 18psi at the turbo I'm assuming. Making the stock wheel able to handle an 18psi load safely but not higher.

My Flywheel in stock at Taka's on the 13th, shipped on the 13th and it just cleared the Perth Post office today! Hows that for fast! I'm used to stuff from the east taking 2 weeks. If anyone is concerned about ordering from them rest assured they are exeptional. You can track the order every step of the way using EMS track. If the couriers aren't slacking off the flywheel will be waiting at home for me.

Quite a few places flog the stuff, as with all things shop around. You may find the likes of Chris Mills and southside etc might stock it a little cheaper than the riceboy tuners.

Go get some toluene, run a mix of 10% of it in with BP ultimate 98. This will give a better burn without throwing out the mixtures and make a little more tolerance for higher boost (within the limits of the stock turbo).

I think 160rwkw +

If that is what it takes to launch well for you I'd say why not. In my case 3500rpm a throttle fed clutch dump is what I used (when my clutch felt like it). If you can replicate the launch technique all the better. I guess you don't want to back off because it's spinning too much but rather because you got traction and are heading towards the end of the staging lane line. What I mean by 'throttle fed' is not mashed straight flat to the floor but a quick smooth action. Mashing the throttle will get your wheelspin but you get traction only because you back off, you will have no idea if the tyres are warm enough or too warm until you hit real thing and find out the hard way.

yeah its good. You can hold onto the dump pipe with your hand when the turbo is on boost without third degree burns. It traps the heat in the pipe. Heat is energy and therefore is retained in the stored engery of the moving exhaust gas. The exhaust gas comes out the back pipe faster. You make some power from that and a little from a slightly cooler engine bay. You get some fuel ecconomy bonus too (not a lot tho).

Yes it can help but not if you keep melting the tyres in a brake burnout demo. Lots of street compounds get 'slippery' after being melted like that, also as you heat up the tyre the air expands inside and exerts more pressure The trick is to let it rip without applying the brake and keep the shtick up until it starts to bite then back off. With mine I start axle hopping. 20psi is good on most tyres, 18psi is better but, if you do burnouts on them and launch frequently, the poor old side walls will never be the same again, they might even 'egg' on you one day. Most street use tyres don't have intentional sidewall flex built into their design.

Ok , I think we can leave the arguments aside now and perhaps look at the more productive and interesting questions like : How to run a 13 with less than 200rwhp. And How to get a quicker launch and 60ft time in your skyline on race day.

Yes I wrapped the outlet pipe from turbo to intercooler with the left overs. I used DEI brand thermo tape (revolution racegear osb. park). It has a nice stiched marker to help get the overlap right. Make sure you do a good job of painting the dump pipe in high temp silicone based paint, and make sure it is 'cured' properly, this will make the job last. Also I add another coat of paint over the top of the wrap. Not necessary on the ic pipe tho. The wrapping is a painfully slow process so give yourself a couple of hours, and do it properly or the un-even heat dispesion can cause metal fatigue cracks in the long term. the 2inch wide stuff is the go.

Ben, the stock cooler isn't the problem running 1bar it's the dreaded 'pottery wheel' (ceramic) that doesn't like 14 odd psi for long. Depending on where you measure the boost the frount mount does not increase the turbo's tollerence if measured at the compressor. The front mount might show a lesser psi drop at the plenum due to efficiency, perhaps thats what you mean. I think I'd have my ass handed to me by quite a number of the guys on this forum when it comes to a driver skill challenge.

I'm not sure if you mean me or Rob77? Rob77; has a zorst, EBC (1bar), HKS pod filter, Diff kit, puck clutch. Rev210 ;mods as per signature thingo' . Check the Wed night drags thread for my 13.8 run conditions. If I had another MPH at the end of the 1/4 I would have had a nice 13.6 not a problem. skyzer33 : Dump pipe or not Rob77 has got more power than me and better traction potential (Clutch and tyres) , having been in both cars. I'd say his car is 3 tenths faster than mine on a good day and last night wasn't a 'good day' for my car. BTW I'm not being a mondays expert and saying it should have done this time or that time, I'm just saying that with some attention to the problems of driving it seems the car will run a 13.7 or better some time soon. Just keep chipping away. But, if you get bored doing the chip away thing, go get the T88 34D setup and all the fruit:D

Yep aussi $$ You could get them cheaper elsewhere.

Geezzz guys the cleaner you want is electrical CO cleaner or Isopropyl alchohol. Go the dicksmith an buy a can. Don't use carby cleaner --- it may deteriorate the plastic if left on. Don't use brake fluid ---- it WILL deteriorate the plastic.

I know what you mean. I think Rob was hoping to prove the ordinary R33 skyline power plant doesn't need much to get 13's. At least he is 'trying' to prove that if you have the power he's got in your R33 sorting out the launch will get a 13.7. This is good news to those hoping to do that sort of time without forking out big cash for front mounts and S-afcs, bigger turbos, blow off valves and HKS stickers. When someone does a 13 without these things they have something to offer their fellow new R33 owners by way of advise. Agree to disagree about tyre pressure tho. I got a reduction of 0.6 and with less tyre pressure , my tyres are much narrower than his and are of a crapper compound. That was with less boost too (8psi). 0.7 drop even more is there for many people who are not yet in the know.

There ya go Kym....look at meee kym look at meee. http://forums.skylinesdownunder.co.nz/show...=&pagenumber=36

RE540s? I thought they were a low profile go round corners fast tyre. That is not what you want for the 1/4. the sidewalls don't like to flex and if you let them down too much the flex will damage the side wall cause they aren't designed to do that. Theeeeeeis is what you waaant : http://www.vpwmailorder.com/asp/product_pa...d=1021&manu_id= You can MAKE the 275s fit under the guards.

oops sorry you asked about 'stopping' axle tramp. Well they actually cause it in the configuration I have as opposed to wheel spin which is the configuration the drift boys like to use. The same kit can be used to do both. Axle tramp also know as diff bounce.

I've got the whiteline kit (well only the back half is installed cause I'm a bit slack). Part no. is KCA349 bout $104 from memory from your local whiteline agent. Recently they assisted my clunker to do a 13.8 1/4. with 8psi of boost / 100kgs in the boot /cheapo 205 tyres and a 90,000km old stock clutch.

Rob's cars got more potential than mine ,now If I stole his boost controller,his clutch and his tyres oops...did I just say that inner monologue out loud? Well, his car will do a 13.6 with a nice amount of wheel spin still off the line, as is the norm for the plex I now gather. He was running to much air pressure in his tyres. I dropped mine to 20psi for the 13.8. Did 14.3's with 34psi in them. If I had my best 60ft of 2.1 on that run it would have been a 13.7/13.6 , not an unreasonable assumption. I think its good to encourage people to get their car going as quick as they can with each level of mod they make before moving to more power as a solution because the reduction in times per $$ spend is better. It's just as good as organising a discount for forum members on performance parts cause ultimately the goal is to go faster for less $$ spent. I think if we put our heads together we can work out a good starter formula for making a stock skyline faster just like many other car types have a similar step by step process.

I think I covered it pretty well on the freehorsepower thread on the SDU forum. The peltier is a highpower unit but, still only 4x4cm. Its stuck on the bottom plate with bits of metal putty.

Peltier with heatsink 'devconed' to the bottom of the stock ic. It's pretty good at cooling between boosted runs. So much heat during boost I can't imagine its any good at improving the HP curve on a sustained run. It's quite handy during hot days like today to minimise heat soak.

Cheers mate. I still haven't got the concrete in the boot yet. How about you? You machine should get some nice low 12's with all that new power you have, either that or a good 1/4 mile long burnout.

I'm sure you can get the time down at least 5-7 tenths with that MPH, more if you got DOT street racer tyres (should be 12s)

Yes, we did get an ear bashing. What was he talking about anyway? 219rwhp sounds about right for the car, you don't need much to go quick in the s13's and thats enough power to run 13s easy in your car.