rev210

The Wolf and the PFC aren't the only systems out there. The e-manage gives both a run for the money, the cost is about the same as the Wolf (PC or E-01 controller tune). The E-01 is a fantastic boost cont its own. Nengun is the place to buy the Greddy e-manage and E-01 from at the best price.

The 'baffles' are plates inside the muffler that sepparate it into chambers. It slows down the exhaust a little (bad) and helps reduce noise over a non-baffled open chamber muffler. If you are desparate to reduce noise baffled is best (it does add a 'tinny' note to the exhaust tho).

The old wolf systems were ok. I would not believe that with a hand-controller and PFC for $1600odd is going to be more expensive to setup than a new Wolf, considering the extra labour cost involved with the re-wiring needed on the wolf (PFC bolts straight in). As far as quicker to setup, again if we start timing from the opening of the 'box' ,no way. Then again if you aren't much chop tuning the PFC the wolf could be faster once plugged in. Better results ? Yes the wolf has more customisable MAPs, in theory you can get greater tuning resolution out of it. However I think the PFC has twice as many points as are necessary to get a decent tune. IF you use every single point you will spend alot of dyno time money. Another thing worth considering is the retention of the AFM, its a good thing on a road car. The response of the AFM is superior to a MAP sensor and will show itself in the fuel ecconomy and bottom end response. Also the boost control option on the wolf (like a number of other systems) is pretty crap, you should consider an EBC even if you end up getting it.

They help when the stock injectors are reaching the limits of duty. The extra fuel pressure gives them an extra kick in the guts. They also tend to hold a more consistant rise in pressure than the stockie (which is also a rising rate but not adjustable). Whatsisname has a malpassi with a bigger pump and got the stock injectors to push about 230rwkw.

It's not a bolt on mate. The RB20DET and RB25DET have the same inlet/zorst positions the RB26DETT is different on both sides. You can 'make' it fit with a custom made spacer plate and some grinding. Cool if you have a workshop near you that has already done this, not cool if it needs fabrication and you can't do it yourself. BTW. The position of the 3 (dual) throttle boddies is a bastard to get properly set if you have moved them from factory, but they usually mark them with a pen just in case. I would run a mile to avoid trying to reset the throttle position from scratch (carbies are bad enough).

550cc are top feed . RB25DET are SIDE feed. You will need a new fuel rail my friends.

I'm with you! Tho' I think my idea would be $110k = R34GTR N1 = How simple is that!

a) if you have the E-01 and ignition harness -- EVERYTHING! Fuel maps ; ignition maps ; boost ( across specific rpm ) ; it has a funky glowing screen and takes Flash memory cards so you can store settings for different envionments.It can allow for the running of a MAP sensor instead of the AFM as well. B) Trust have a 1500HP RB26 running it, there are many people in the US with it on WRXs and Supras etc. c) The interface is very easy to understand, I think it looks easier than most and with the hand controller you can fine tune on the road. d) It compares fairly well if you are just getting the basic e-manage box for $415AUS, given you can upgrade it. However in the full house version $910AUS (E-01) + $415 e-manage + $45 ignition harness, it stands up there with PowerFC , it is certainly better value for money. e) yes I'd buy one if someone gave me $420. BTW the unichip isn't in the same league as the e-amange or PFC.

Adam, I think you can see that the e-manage is a hell of a lot cheaper than even a PFC setup, you have to remember that the E-01 is a very funky boost controller by itself as well. some people have an abillity to talk crap, as in the people who say things like 'the e-manage is too expensive' and 'the blue box can't be tuned'. I think you can find the answers on the trust website and unless you can't read they say what I'm telling you. The $415 e-manage gives you AFC control just like the apexi unit (minus two rev ranges), it has 5 trim pots to adjust which won't take long at all to tune. And given that it can be upgraded easily why would you buy the apexi for more $$$ appart from the blue screen?

I think you should flog the FCon to someone over east as suggested. Then with the cash you could buy an e-manage and later on add the E-01 and ignition harness for full tuning. The e-manage is only $415 form nengun and the E-01 is $910 including shipping. The initial advantage of the basic e-manage is that its a simple afc to begin with so tuning won't be a long and expensive process. Hey maybe if you wash the R34 for the next 2 years Chris might let you borrow his e-mange tuning cable and software, then you can have the full 3D ignition and fuel mapping of the power FC for the price of the basic e-manage and ignition harness. In the US people share the software and cable kit with others in their car clubs to keep the cost down, pay for it out of club fees or group buy.

You know you have to pay up front with every comnpany I know that does business over the net. Be it perfect run or nengun or what ever. Nengun has heaps of satisfied customers on this forum, he will look after you very well dude. As for the link; it works on my computer, dunno what the problem is? Anyone else have the same problem?

Jap or Australian the physics of exhaust design still remain. If you know the theory and can weld better than a monkey you can expect to produce a decent exhaust. The japs go for larger pre-silencers on most of their exhausts thats why they don't drone as much, its quite simple and a good idea. The less restrictive zorts are often louder as par for the course. Here are a few ideas for high flow. 1) turbos don't like backpressure. 2) Make the exhaust length as short as possible (ie: fewer less angular bends decrease the total length). 3) Straight through mufflers flow the best , you just have to seek out the best brand for noise and flow. 4) muffler and cat placement effect the thermal dynamic aspect of flow but also noise. The exhaust is hottest up the front and gets colder as it goes back, it loses speed and energy as it does this.Pipe diameter as you go back should decrease slightly to accomodate, not increase as many people do. The exeption is the tail pipe if it is 'megaphoned' this produces an attractive pressure drop for exhaust to run to. 5)Trapping the heat energy in the pipe will increase the speed of the gas molecules making more power, do what you can to this effect. Coating the muffler bodies in HPC or more practical is wrapping the dump pipe in thermal wrap. On the idea of the infallable jap exhaust - they are useless at doing NA rotory exhausts, possibly the hardest to design. If you know a place that does a good job of this type of exhaust then go running to them if you want the "best quality" in design they must know their stuff.

If the factory computer has anything to do with it, I'd say it retarded the timing on you. Turbo's do not like backpressure at all! Get rid of back pressure on the turbo and power is there for the taking.

nengun has the E-01 for 62,000 yen delivered to your door! Thats $909 AUS!!!!! e-manage is $415 AUS. http://www.nengun.siteblast.com/gallery.as...e=15&shopperid=

the Flame thrower, is the exhaust a race car uses, no mufflers just a pipe that exits just under the passeger door. It would be a simple bolt on pipe that goes in place of the cat for race meets/dyno or naughty late night hooning. The de-cat pipe is more practical it just replaces the cat with a straight peice of pipe. When you take the cat off and put the flame thrower on the exhaust remains in place but nothing comes out the back, flames come out the side. When you take the cat off and put the de-cat in flames come out the back but, it is as quiet as normal. Flame throwers will give you a significant increase in power and not to mention noise (but they are so much fun!). If you get it doen right you can swap the exhaust over in 10min or so by undoing 6 bolts, putting the decat of flame thrower in and doing the 6 bolts back up.

Alcohol (isopropyl) injection is better than water(water is good though). The stock ic has plenty of pressure drop BTW, it has fairly poor flow. A modest sized front mount like the trust will increase air flow speed over the stock one (ie: less lag).

Make sure to get a 'flame thrower' or a decat (doesn't have to be stainless) they would only charge a few bucks to make one I'm sure.

$700 is alot of money for a peice of pipe that short. Tuned length? on a turbo downpipe? A mistake surely. The only area where tuned length is required is straight out the cylinder head(manifold), where there is a slowish 'pulsing' of exhaust from each cylinder. Ring Quick fit in morley, see what their price is like. With the money you save you can buy some exhaust wrap and stainless pipe clamps.

I got my pipe form the turbo to the cat (dump and front) done a Quick Fit in Morley. Stainless 3" pipe, hand fabricated dump pipe for around $405 from memory. If you like you could get them to make you a 'flanged' de-cat pipe. Tell them it is for 'off-road use' for when you go to Waneroo or the motor-plex. The pipe can be swapped with the cat when you need that extra bit of 'GO'. Much better than gutting the cat, should cost less than $100 in stainless. Better still get a de-cat pipe AND a flame-thrower. Flame thrower; a short flanged pipe with a slight megaphone like flare at the end that exits under the passenger door. This pipe will bolt in place of the cat on race days/dyno days. Straight out your turbo baby! Big flames and a sound like WW2. They should be cool making them for you if you specify they are only for special events (like getting your neigbours backs up)

I do 2500+kms a month in my R33, it's a work car. Almost all of that is city driving. I accellerate quickly to the speed limit and cruise. My fuel consumtion is 10L/100kms or slightly lower, 9something on the longer open road runs. I know this is fairly accurate as I log book and claim every single Km for tax reasons, have done this over more than 2 years. A study conducted some time ago (VW did it I think) found that brisk accelleration used less fuel than a slow accelleration to the same speed (not the reason I do it I can assure you ) I don't drive like nanna, I only have two points left to show that! You will get poor fuel ecconomy if you use 5th gear at speeds slower than 90km/h, I know some people who use it at 50/60kmh! As mentioned before, the state of your cars tune will greatly impact on fuel ecconomy, as will general maintenence like tyre pressure and the one nobody remembers ----- change your frigin gearbox and diff oil regularly !

Doh! I didn't read the WRX part at the start.

does the flywheel suit an r33 rb25det? what brand is it?

louder and heavier, less backpressure so very slight potential power gain unless you run a very big HP engine.

The aftermarket ones are the way to go. They can be as light as 4 or 5 kgs, faster reving/boost and less strain on the gearbox are benifits.Ogura make a fairly cheap one from chrome-molly.

The factory cast iron flywheels are around 9/10 odd kg! The RB26/30/25 flywheels are NOT interchangable. Do not machine the stock cast iron one to decrease weight it is not safe.