rev210

Joel, don't waste the money on the 'so-called octane boosters' when they say upto 7 points they reffer to an octane increase maximum of 0.7 RON based on the lowest octane unleaded fuel it's boost is less on ultimate 98 and others. Toluene is a real octane booster:D

As far as 'main' upgrades for power, I would drop the BOV off the list, it's a 'rice accessory' and unless you buy a plumb-back type you will make less power thanks to throwing the ecu out on air flow. but hey if going slower is your thing to have that "psssh" sound. They don't decrease lag over the stock one BTW. Keep the Greddy intercooler as an option, it's a true bolt on and as well made as any/better than most (especially if you save a few hundred over the ARE ). ($1600) Pod filter? cross that bridge when you buy an upgraded turbo, I have a panel filter(k&N) and it flows more than enough for the stock turbo. You pocket the extra $200 the pod and air box will cost over a K&N panel and put it towards something that will add more performance for the money.($100) Replacement ecu wise you could get an e-manage to start off with in its s-afc form ($405) then add the E-01 boost control($800) later on and presto a full ignition and fuel map to play with with data logging you can store on SDRAM cards even! Before you get the E-01 you could just get the $100 bleed type bc. Add $1300 on the full exhaust, $200 on a malpassi rising rate, $250 on a bigger fuel pump and a standard bearing T3/T4 hybrid for $1200. You'll be over the 200rwkw mark then.

not legal, if it changes the emissions. Then again anything you do to your car that changes the emissions is not legal.

The greddy would be a better choice budget wise and I dare say performance wise as well.

dip switches (there is a guide to setup on each model car inc. skylines) and trim pots are how its tuned. there are 5 rpm ranges which you can adjust the mixtures leaner or richer 20% odd.

no you don't need the software to tune it in afc mode. The software allows FULL mapping of fuel and ignition blah blah blah just like the PFC etc.

nengun flogs the e-manage for $450AUS. The harness and software are extra, but I thought this guy just wants the functions of the S-AFC. If so the e-manage in its $450 form does the same thing. Anyway you can buy the E-01 boost controller later on and do away with the need for the harness and software.

the e-manage is discrete, and for $450 is cheaper than the S-AFC with the options of upgrading it.

buy the ic right for your horsepower goal. go too big and you get less horsepower and reduced throttle response. the price for your ic is not the important part. you will get the worst intercooler imaginable for the most money if your power goals are not 'wild'. The more expensive the ic is the larger it is in most brands.Run a racespec cooler without the race spec motor and a race to go to and you will be sorry. I'd say that the greddy ic would be more than enough.

The Autech version does a factory 12.8 and the Nismo version of the 260rs does 12.4!

I wonder when nengun will get pricing for this? He kicks perfect run's ass on the e-manage.

Wow the new e-manage screen thing takes SD RAM cards so i guess you can carry these with different fuel maps on them and just put the card in with the maps you want to suit your needs. Like a card for the drags, running more octane, boost and timing or one for nitrous. Cooool!

It's more like Master and slave, the factory ECU is relegated to following instructions from the e-manage. The e-manage can also directly control the ignition maps and run a pressure sensor if the limits of the AFM are exceeded.

I represent a manufacturer of printers, look after WA,SA & NT. The GTST is my 'work car' if the tax dept ever asks any of you. I get a car allowance for it. And those mods I did are actually "repairs" to worn out components.

set of bfg drag radial TA's are DOT and therefore not cheating, Niz30 with his mph has a low 11 potential with these sort of tyres and a Whiteline KCA349 diff kit (only $104).

The stock 'dump pipe' (straight off the turbo) is made of cast iron and is certainly worth throwing away. Mine was really badly matched to the turbo outlet, so when I bolted the dump pipe on it was quite noticably better.

Hang a picture of a Keith Black funny car engine in your engine bay, then you can say you have 4000+HP under the bonnet without telling lies. Also when a car with less quoted HP kicks your ass, there is no come back for that! (you just gor beaten by a morris minor cause you couldn't get traction). Oh yeah well I've got 340rwkw!

A point worth remembering is to avoid the habbit of resting your hand on the gearshift when driving along (ie: get your hand off it!). By resting your hand there you can cause 'over-selecting' pressure on the shift fork and wear out the syncro. This is most common in the upshift syncro to 4th. A symptom cars can have even when they have never been thrashed. * Short shifter kits make this problem worse. Also I change my gearbox and diff oil every 15k or so, as per the factory reccomendation. Lots of farqared diff's and gearboxes are the result of pemature wear on various high stress parts, caused no doubt by oil that has long since broken down (as all oils do) and stopped effectively protecting. Some people must think their gearbox/diff oil is 'magic' the way they don't ever change it. If you do burnouts change more frequently, I used to after every good tyre shedding session ( nice silver sparkly gear oil comes out every time - yet other people will still not change it until they replace the diff center?). Warm up the gearbox and diff, there are some dissimilar metals used in the construction of these things with different expansion rates, not least of which are the bearings. Before a good thrash warm up everything!

Well done and happy trails:D call me when you need a hand on the injector clean up.

You don't do alot of ECU tuning do you? Even the old haltech F series from 6 years ago had 512 Map points, thats 112 more than the PFC . How many of those points do you think you need to have a nice smooth idle and responsive mid range? Answer less than 256, especially when you have another 256 ignition maps. Programing in 400 map points one by one is for those who like to watch paint dry or run very large HP track race engines, then again I would go a Motec over a PFC it has many times the resolution of the PFC, by your reasoning the PFC looks very weak and crappy next to it. Whats the point of argument? They are both good street performance solutions, capable of producing large HP, the e-manage offers newer more affordable tuning, however if your tuner doesn't do them the PFC is a great option. At the end of the day the tuning of these things can cost alot more than the hardware.

Ahh...sounds like you don't know what you are talking about. Trust have a 1200+HP RB26 with this piggy back(check out the e-manage web site-- its in jap tho'). Why don't you go check out this link to find out what the e-manage does and does not do before you get all "beyond certain limits" on us? http://www.mkiv.com/tmp/emanage/ Please note the reasonably large 16x16 ignition and fuel maps and the abillity to run a MAP sensor in addition to the AFM once the AFM's range is reached. Did someone say data logging? On my very own PC? There are plenty of e-manage users in Japan and the US who have highly modded cars making lots of HP. Australia is not the only place in the world that modifies cars you know. Come to think of it, we are probably the most backwards technology wise given the huge number of 'trevs' we have. Don't get me wrong, the PFC is very good but, look at the what the e-manage really offers for the $, if you can't tune one of these you have to be a shaved monkey.

73psi/ 5 bar of boost (1200HP) on the F1 engines in the old turbo days using toluene real world enough for you? Side effects ; uncontrolled grin , a lack of pinging under very high loads, wheel spin.

Yep, sounds like you have a very sensible sized ic megs. Building a "whole" performance package is the best way to go. Make a plan out starting with what sort of measured performance you want and design the car around that concept. If you want a turbo that can wack out 200rwkw then get the kit that will do that with the best efficiency and you will get better mid range power (what is needed on the street).

gt2540 is bolt on, apart from a few bits of rubber pipe. Don't machine and lighten the factory cast iron flywheel go buy a chrome molly light one. The lightening of cast iron flywheels is dangerous and crap (ie: can't get it as light as an aftermarket one). the greddy e-manage is cheaper than the PFC, you can spend the money else where. On the cheap ----> (200rwkw+) with the 2540 or T3/4(about $1200 for hybrid), stock injectors,bosch pump ,malpassi reg, afc, exhaust , filter, ic sized for this power so it is efficient or if you go to the drags (boost for 13 or less seconds at a time) use the stock ic and save more money.

I've got the stock ic and recently ran 14+psi (15psi spike) no fuel cut issues. I think if the ic is sized very well the extra horsepower potential may exceed the Air Flow maximum allowed by the stock ecu. More hp = more airflow = ecu dummy spit. A big ass ic will create some lag if its oversized for the turbo and reduce overall flow efficiency. If you are running an ic rated a 600hp and you have a 300hp turbo you might make less power than stock AFC or not. Having said that at least if you decide to circuit race you will keep the power at maximum all day.